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Closer Inspection: The scoop

In the basement of the University of Maryland’s South Campus dining hall, a single four-foot-tall ice cream machine churns out 10,000 gallons of traditional ice cream each year. Here, a look at the operation. — Kathleen Hom

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There’s more to the creamery than its best-selling chocolate, vanilla and strawberry ice cream. “It would be easy to play it safe with standard flavors,” says executive pastry chef Jeffrey Russo. But “developing new flavors is ... an outlet for creativity,” he says. So, about once a week, he and his ice cream production assistant, Nora Garcia, experiment with recipes for new flavors, such as s’mores ice cream.

Benjamin C. Tankersley / FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

Recipes at the creamy. For flavor inspiration, Russo peruses grocery store aisles, interviews faculty about favorite treats, and holds contests in which students suggest recipes.

Recipes at the creamy. For flavor inspiration, Russo peruses grocery store aisles, interviews faculty about favorite treats, and holds contests in which students suggest recipes.

Benjamin C. Tankersley / FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

The creamery’s 28 flavors, including apple pie and Fear the Turtle (white chocolate ice cream with pecans and caramel swirl) usually start with plain ice cream mix with 14 percent butterfat, enough to give the ice cream a good mouth feel, Russo says.

The creamery’s 28 flavors, including apple pie and Fear the Turtle (white chocolate ice cream with pecans and caramel swirl) usually start with plain ice cream mix with 14 percent butterfat, enough to give the ice cream a good mouth feel, Russo says.

Benjamin C. Tankersley / FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

Russo says he hates when he has to dig to find, say, chocolate chips in ice cream. So he tries not to skimp on ingredients: Cookie dough ice cream has hefty chunks of batter....

Russo says he hates when he has to dig to find, say, chocolate chips in ice cream. So he tries not to skimp on ingredients: Cookie dough ice cream has hefty chunks of batter....

Benjamin C. Tankersley / FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

... while his birthday cake ice cream features large slabs of cake, as well as Grand Marnier and red and yellow sprinkles.

... while his birthday cake ice cream features large slabs of cake, as well as Grand Marnier and red and yellow sprinkles.

Benjamin C. Tankersley / FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

After several minutes in the machine, the ice cream mixture reaches a milkshake consistency. Then Russo and Garcia pour the mixture into three-gallon buckets while adding ingredients for different flavors. To set properly, the ice cream buckets spend two days in a walk-in freezer set at 27 degrees below zero. The time also helps the flavors mature, Russo says.

After several minutes in the machine, the ice cream mixture reaches a milkshake consistency. Then Russo and Garcia pour the mixture into three-gallon buckets while adding ingredients for different flavors. To set properly, the ice cream buckets spend two days in a walk-in freezer set at 27 degrees below zero. The time also helps the flavors mature, Russo says.

Benjamin C. Tankersley / FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

Russo adds slices of cake to the birthday cake ice cream. Some flavors are seasonal, such as rum raisin and candy cane for the holidays. Sporadically, flavors are retired — usually one of several redundant flavors, such as coffee or coffee chocolate chip, Russo says.

Russo adds slices of cake to the birthday cake ice cream. Some flavors are seasonal, such as rum raisin and candy cane for the holidays. Sporadically, flavors are retired — usually one of several redundant flavors, such as coffee or coffee chocolate chip, Russo says.

Benjamin C. Tankersley / FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

Ingredients for cookie dough ice cream include: chocolate extract, cocoa powder and sugar, creme de cacao and chocolate chip cookie dough balls. Students can get the ice cream at campus cafeterias; visitors can buy it at the Dairy. Sometimes, Russo says, alumni from as far away as California ask him to ship them their favorite flavor, or they work with his team to concoct a unique flavor that’s delivered to their door.

Ingredients for cookie dough ice cream include: chocolate extract, cocoa powder and sugar, creme de cacao and chocolate chip cookie dough balls. Students can get the ice cream at campus cafeterias; visitors can buy it at the Dairy. Sometimes, Russo says, alumni from as far away as California ask him to ship them their favorite flavor, or they work with his team to concoct a unique flavor that’s delivered to their door.

Benjamin C. Tankersley / FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

Besides chocolate, marshmallow and graham crackers, Russo adds cinnamon, salted almonds and distilled hazelnut liqueur to the creamery’s s’mores ice cream. Those ingredients make the flavor more complex, he says.

Besides chocolate, marshmallow and graham crackers, Russo adds cinnamon, salted almonds and distilled hazelnut liqueur to the creamery’s s’mores ice cream. Those ingredients make the flavor more complex, he says.

Benjamin C. Tankersley / FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

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