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In Puerto Rico, a glow in the night

A rare and amazing ecosystem charms tourists and locals.

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Vieques Island, Puerto Rico, as seen from a small plane. During the 1940s, the U.S. Navy expropriated two-thirds of the island for artillery storage and military training. When the Navy stopped bombing in 2003, almost 18,000 acres were designated as a national wildlife refuge.

Leigh Ann Henion / FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

Vieques, about eight miles from the main island, has about 50 beaches on which visitors often find themselves alone with the sounds of the surf.

Vieques, about eight miles from the main island, has about 50 beaches on which visitors often find themselves alone with the sounds of the surf.

Leigh Ann Henion / FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

The beaches in Vieques’s national wildlife refuge are some of the least developed in the Caribbean.

The beaches in Vieques’s national wildlife refuge are some of the least developed in the Caribbean.

Leigh Ann Henion / FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

Horses graze freely in the streets and fields of Vieques.

Horses graze freely in the streets and fields of Vieques.

Leigh Ann Henion / FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

Horses and compact cars often vie for space on the narrow roads of Vieques.

Horses and compact cars often vie for space on the narrow roads of Vieques.

Leigh Ann Henion / FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

Sol Food’s empanadas and pastillos are popular with locals and visitors alike. The truck is often parked near the entrance to the national wildlife refuge.

Sol Food’s empanadas and pastillos are popular with locals and visitors alike. The truck is often parked near the entrance to the national wildlife refuge.

Leigh Ann Henion / FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

A church stands alongside a quiet stretch of road leading to the western end of Vieques.

A church stands alongside a quiet stretch of road leading to the western end of Vieques.

Leigh Ann Henion / FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

Garry Lowe unloads a polycarbonate canoe in preparation for a tour of Bioluminescent Bay. This bay, also called Bio Bay or Mosquito Bay, is off the southern coast of the island of Vieques. Lowe also runs biking and fly-fishing tours, but his claim to fame lies in his use of clear canoes.

Garry Lowe unloads a polycarbonate canoe in preparation for a tour of Bioluminescent Bay. This bay, also called Bio Bay or Mosquito Bay, is off the southern coast of the island of Vieques. Lowe also runs biking and fly-fishing tours, but his claim to fame lies in his use of clear canoes.

Leigh Ann Henion / FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

A group of tourists enter a relatively wide section of Bio Bay’s mangrove tunnel. The mangroves are the focus of some daylight tours.

A group of tourists enter a relatively wide section of Bio Bay’s mangrove tunnel. The mangroves are the focus of some daylight tours.

Leigh Ann Henion / FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

Carlos Cruz Morales, who guides tourists through the mangroves, covers himself in mud harvested from Bio Bay. 'What's good for dinoflagellates is good for your skin and nails,' he says.

Carlos Cruz Morales, who guides tourists through the mangroves, covers himself in mud harvested from Bio Bay. "What's good for dinoflagellates is good for your skin and nails," he says.

Leigh Ann Henion / FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

Charlie the Wavemaster holds his “magic wand,” a long metal pole that he says he uses to create vibrations on the ground and in the waters of Bio Bay.

Charlie the Wavemaster holds his “magic wand,” a long metal pole that he says he uses to create vibrations on the ground and in the waters of Bio Bay.

Leigh Ann Henion / FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

Isabel Segunda, the largest town on Vieques, has experienced increased tourism over the last few years, but it’s still dominated by the rhythms of local life.

Isabel Segunda, the largest town on Vieques, has experienced increased tourism over the last few years, but it’s still dominated by the rhythms of local life.

Leigh Ann Henion / FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

Restaurante Bili, in Esperanza, offers seafood caught in Caribbean waters just a few feet from its dining room.

Restaurante Bili, in Esperanza, offers seafood caught in Caribbean waters just a few feet from its dining room.

Leigh Ann Henion / FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

The Museum Fort Count Mirasol, built between 1845 and 1855, offers an unsurpassed view of Isabel Segunda.

The Museum Fort Count Mirasol, built between 1845 and 1855, offers an unsurpassed view of Isabel Segunda.

Leigh Ann Henion / FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

In Isabel Segunda, water can be seen from nearly every vantage point, and ferries regularly dot the horizon.

In Isabel Segunda, water can be seen from nearly every vantage point, and ferries regularly dot the horizon.

Leigh Ann Henion / FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

In Esperanza, Mark Martin Bras sits in front of the Vieques Conservation & Historical Trust, where he serves as director of community affairs. The building’s courtyard is an educational center focused on the ecology that fosters bioluminescence.

In Esperanza, Mark Martin Bras sits in front of the Vieques Conservation & Historical Trust, where he serves as director of community affairs. The building’s courtyard is an educational center focused on the ecology that fosters bioluminescence.

Leigh Ann Henion / FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

In Esperanza, this mural outside of Island Adventures’ office illustrates Bio Bay’s snaking mouth.

In Esperanza, this mural outside of Island Adventures’ office illustrates Bio Bay’s snaking mouth.

Leigh Ann Henion / FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

Fishing and recreational craft can often be found near the main pier in Esperanza.

Fishing and recreational craft can often be found near the main pier in Esperanza.

Leigh Ann Henion / FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

Boats often dock directly off the coast of Esperanza, as well.

Boats often dock directly off the coast of Esperanza, as well.

Leigh Ann Henion / FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

The sunset, as seen from Esperanza’s malecon, or esplanade.

The sunset, as seen from Esperanza’s malecon, or esplanade.

Leigh Ann Henion / FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

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