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‘Downton Abbey’ fashion, from costume to the runway The popular period drama has reintroduced WWI-era style to international audiences and has fueled several fashion trends seen on runways and celebrities this year.
Hemlines
Shorter hemlines were one of the most dramatic changes in women’s style in the early 1900s, according to the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Susanna Buxton, the costume designer for "Downton Abbey," made sure to showcase the evolution of skirt length in costumes for the new season. "The only good thing to come out of the First World War was women's ankles," Buxton told the Telegraph in October 2011. Lady Mary Crawley, played by Michelle Dockery, stands at the train station in a scene from the second season of the show, with a hemline much shorter than would have been seen in the first few episodes before the start of the war.
Nick Briggs
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ITV for Masterpiece
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Midi-skirts
Above-the-ankle, or midi, skirts were a big trend this season, like the gold skirt seen here in designer Marco spring/summer 2012 ready-to-wear collection during Paris Fashion Week. Dries van Noten likewise showed calf-length skirts with a slimmer silhouette, and similar varieties were found everywhere from Asos to Anthropologie last fall.
Patrick Kovarik
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AFP/Getty Images
Pastels and florals
Light fabrics and colors, as well as softer lines, began appearing in women’s summer dress by 1914. Jessica Brown Findlay playing Lady Sybil Crawley, right, is wearing an original Edwardian summer dress and Laura Carmichael playing Lady Edith Crawley, center, is wearing a dress that was previously used in the Merchant-Ivory production of “Room With A View.” Buxton had Lady Mary’s striped dress made for her.
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Pastels and florals
Dresses from the spring 2012 Ralph Lauren Collection looked like they could have easily come from the set of “Downton.” Pastel florals and airy fabrics dominated the runway show and are predicted to be a big trend for spring.
Richard Drew
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AP
Beading
Elements of early art deco style began to emerge during the war, including intricate beadwork, like that seen on Elizabeth McGovern as Lady Cora, center.
Nick Briggs
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ITV for Masterpiece
Beading
Ralph Lauren’s spring 2012 ready-to-wear collection was one of several to feature beading details. British designers Sarah Burton, for Alexander McQueen, and Jenny Packham showed garments with beading in their spring 2012 collections as well.
Maria Valentino
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For The Washington Post
Headpieces
Designer Paul Poiret, known as “The King of Fashion” in America during the 1910s, was known for spreading his love of Oriental influences and fantasies, according to the Met. Poiret was also credited with introducing the “harem” trousers, or pantaloons, that Lady Sybil rebelliously wore to dinner at Downton during the first season of the show. In this scene, Lavinia Swire, played by Zoe Boyle, wears a beaded headpiece, popularized by Poiret’s Oriental aesthetic.
Nick Briggs
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ITV for Masterpiece
Headpieces
Headpieces from Karl Lagerfeld’s Paris-Bombay collection for Chanel were reminiscent of the Oriental influence in the late 1910s, and a nod to Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel’s iconic metallic and beaded evening gowns of the 1920s. Nicole Richie’s beaded headpieces for House of Harlow have also been popular this year, selling out on several online stores.
Remy de la Mauviniere
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AP
Empire waist
Silhouettes changed dramatically as the war began. The Edwardian S-shaped corsette, which pushed out women’s chests and behinds, became impractical and outdated, according to the Met. Poiret was largely credited with eliminating the use of corsets, although designers such as Chanel and Lucile continued the trend. The look was replaced with looser garments and high, empire waistlines similar to the Greek chiton. Female cast members, including the servants, wore the S-shaped corset throughout the first season. “But by 1916 they are different –- they are less of an S shape and really much more like Spanx. Poor Michelle Dockery (Lady Mary, pictured) even has to go out riding in a corset under her jodhpurs -- with a big overskirt on top of all of that,” Buxton told the Mirror.
Nick Briggs
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PBS
Empire Waiste
Badgley Mischka’s pre-fall 2012 showing featured several dresses with a similar empire waist and columnar shape. Michelle Obama has helped make the style a staple for evening gowns this year, selecting similar dresses for both the Mexico and South Korea state dinners, designed by Peter Soren and Doo-Ri Chung.
Jemal Countess
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Getty Images
Hats and dress coats
Matching hats and dress coats were not simply a defense against the weather in 1916; they were required garments for any proper wardrobe. The women of "Downton Abbey" were hardly seen outdoors without their hair covered in the first season, although Buxton told the Telegraph that this will change slightly in the new episodes. "There are fewer hats than in the first series, because it's a less flamboyant time," she said.
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AFP/Getty Images
Hats and dress coats
The combination has been seen at nearly every major wedding and event in the United Kingdom this season, remaining a popular ensemble with the royal family and newlywed Duchess Catherine. Christian Dior’s collection, pictured, as well as John Galliano and Erdem’s collections for spring 2012, featured the look.
Pascal Le Segretain
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Getty Images
S-shapes and gloves
Violet, the Dowager Countess of Grantham, played by Maggie Smith, is often seen with a more exaggerated Edwardian-style silhouette than the younger female characters. The look also featured higher necklines, and the Countess is rarely seen without her gloves.
Nick Briggs
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PBS
S-shapes and gloves
Marc Jacobs' 2011 fall runway collection featured a similar silhouette with the body segmented, rather than the linear, Grecian proportions. The high neckline and matching black leather gloves are also reminiscent of the Countess’s wardrobe.
Maria Valentino
Gloves
Before they were relegated to debutantes and costume parties, white gloves were the epitome of ladylike refinement. The women at Downton wore long, white gloves to dinner and all formal occasions.
Nick Briggs
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PBS
Gloves
The Mirror reported in fall 2011 that sales of elbow-length gloves at the U.K. department store Debenhams have soared. While the look may not have crossed the pond as readily as others seen in “Downton Abbey,” Sarah Burton’s jeweled versions have helped to expand glove possibilities past black leather and fuzzy, girlish varieties.
Jacques Brinon
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AP
Trench coats
All-weather coats, or trench coats, came to life during WWI, as Burberry was commissioned to help create better outerwear for officers, according to the BBC. Since then, the belted jackets with military detailing have remained a classic element in modern wardrobes.
Nick Briggs
Trench coats
The popularity of trench coats has spanned the last century, and has grown as celebrities such as Kate Middleton are seen in classic Burberry styles. Burberry has made slight alterations to the jacket over the years, like this plum trench-dress seen during its spring 2012 runway show. However, the brand has also held onto its incredibly popular classic trench.
Ben Stansall
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AFP/Getty Images
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