Turkish Airlines offers connecting flights from Washington Dulles to Douala, Cameroon’s main entry point. Buses and bush taxis are a cheap, if often perilous, way to get around the country. A roughly three-hour ride from Yaoundé to Douala, or Douala to Kribi, costs around $6. Camrail (www.camrail.net) runs a daily overnight service between Yaoundé and N’Gaoundéré. A sleeper berth in a “wagon-lit” costs around $51.
WHERE TO STAY
Off Makangal Street, Limbe
Basic budget accommodation with big, breezy rooms on a hilltop facing the bay. Rooms from $12.
Foyer du Marin
Rue Gallieni, Douala
A favorite expat haunt with rooms set around a palm-shaded garden and swimming pool. Rooms from $45.
New Hotel Coco Beach
Off Route de Campo, Kribi
The rooms in this whitewashed villa are on the cozy side, but you’re paying for the seaside setting. Rooms from $41.
Off Carrefour Nlongkak, Yaounde
Slightly shabby rooms, but with an ideal location off the lively Nlongkak roundabout. Rooms from $16.
WHERE TO EAT
Down Beach, Limbe
Boisterous open-air grills strung along Down Beach, dishing up cold beers and fresh fish with beautiful bay views. Cheap eats start at $2.
Boulevarde de la Liberté, Douala
Breezy sidewalk seating gives some Parisian panache to this choice eatery serving Greek, Italian and Lebanese dishes. Entrees start at $5.
The market at the marina, held every Wednesday and Saturday, is packed with locals gorging on freshly grilled fish. Meals start at $3.
Avenue Monseigneur Vogt, Yaoundé
One of the capital’s best patisseries, serving scrumptious pastries, croissants and sandwiches. Snacks from 50 cents.
WHAT TO DO
140 Ave. du Président Ahmadou Ahidjo, Yaoundé
The French cultural center is at the hub of Yaoundé’s busy arts scene, with frequent exhibitions and performances. Monday-Saturday from 9 a.m. until late, depending on performance schedule.