Ethiopian Airlines offers nonstop flights from Washington Dulles to Addis Ababa, Ethiopia (return flight connects through Rome), with early January fares currently starting at $1,411. Connecting flights on Ethiopian to Kilimanjaro Airport (close to both Moshi and Arusha in Tanzania) are $285 each way. The bus to Dar es Salaam, Tanzania, from Arusha is $15.
Taitu Street, Addis Ababa
Five-star hotel on its own walled grounds. Rooms from $275.
Mundy Street, Piazza, Addis Ababa
Ethiopia’s oldest hotel, built in 1898. The more expensive rooms ($25 a night) are large and well serviced. Rooms from $10.
98 Rindi Lane, Moshi
Basic rooms, and a few cottages, surround a beautiful courtyard with an open-air restaurant and bar. Rooms from $60.
Arusha Coffee Lodge
On the A104 near the Arusha airstrip
A high-end boutique hotel in the middle of its own coffee plantation. The coffee’s good, the atmosphere is gorgeous, and the food is mediocre. Rooms from $175.
Narung’ombe Street at Msimbazi, Dar es Salaam
Centrally located, with a good Swahili breakfast included. Rooms from $25.
Bole Medhaniyalem area next to Brass Hospital, Addis Ababa
A tourist spot, but a good one. Fine Ethiopian food served the traditional way, with live music and dance. Entrees from $10 .
Lema Road, Shanty Town, Moshi
A Swahili-influenced Indian restaurant with a good and varied menu. Entrees from $10.
Uhuru Road, near Friends Corner, Arusha
Traditional Tanzanian food, though the cook will make whatever you like with what he has. Entrees from $2.
Waterfront Sunset Restaurant and Beach Bar
Slipway shopping center, Dar es Salaam
Mostly for tourists, but the view of the Indian Ocean makes up for the higher prices. Entrees from $10.
Ethiopian National Museum
King George VI Street, Addis Ababa
011-251-11-111-91-31, ext. 7150
The home of Lucy, the 3.2-million-year-old Australopithecus, as well as Emperor Haile Selassie’s crown and throne and a fine collection of 18th- to 21st-century Ethiopian paintings. Daily 8:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.; 55 cents.
Addis Ababa University
King George VI Street
Site of the Ethiopian Ethnographic Museum, housed in Emperor Haile Selassie’s old palace, as well as the Kennedy Library, open only to students.
If you’d like a tour of Arusha like the one we got, this is Raphiele’s start-up company. (He does safaris, too.) Prices vary.
Kivukoni and Mzizima fish markets
Ocean Road, Dar es Salaam
Kivukoni’s the larger of the two; Mzizima is on a nicer part of the city beach. Both open most of the day.
Addis Ababa: www.addisculturetourism.gov.et