Lufthansa offers connecting flights from Washington Dulles to Venice, with mid-June fares currently starting at $1,350 round trip. Train travel among the cities should be arranged in advance during tourist season. Rail passes and individual tickets are available through Trenitalia (www.trenitalia.com).
Calle de la Vida, Campo Manin 4297
Spare but elegant hotel with vintage charm on a quiet side street a short stroll from Piazza San Marco. Rooms from $120, including breakfast.
Procuratie Nuove, Piazza San Marco
Supposedly the oldest cafe in Italy. Walk to the back bar for an espresso to avoid the high table charge. Espresso about $3.25.
Roastery and cafe just outside the historic Jewish ghetto district. Espresso about $1.30.
Homey spot near the main entrance to the Jewish ghetto, offering such traditional Jewish Italian dishes as fried artichokes and “eggplant ghetto style.” Entrees start at about $10.
Via del Giglio 8, Santa Maria Novella
Each room in this hotel near the Duomo features an original ceiling fresco and antique furniture. Rooms from $120.
Piazza San Giovanni 19
Sweet and caramel-like espresso, with a nutty bite and luscious crema, about $1.45.
Piazza della Repubblica 13/14
Long the meeting place of playwrights, poets, philosophers and politicians. Espresso $1.30.
Osteria Santo Spirito
Piazza di Santo Spirito 16/r
Lively, perpetually crowded Tuscan restaurant. Main dishes start at $24.
Via Marghera 8
Funky hostel-cum-hotel offering dorm-style and private lodging. Rooms from $105.
Sant’Eustachio il Caffe
Piazza di Sant’Eustachio 82
The kiss of sugar is part of what makes the espresso here so legendary. About $3.25.
Piazza Augusto Imperatore 9
This split-personality venue is part buzzy restaurant, part jazz club, part wine bar and part cozy kitchenware shop. Entrees from about $21.
Hotel Correra 241
Via Correra 241
Comfortable modern hotel in the Centro Storico district. Rooms from $120.
Piazza Dante 86
Baristas man massive espresso machines for a crowd that’s perpetually two or three deep against the counter. About $1.20.
Gran Caffe Gambrinus
Via Chiaia 1/2
So what if the baristas are gruff? In this town, it seems that the surliest baristas make the sweetest shots. About $1.30.
Salita Sant’Anna di Palazzo 2
They’ve been slinging pies in this space since 1780 and reportedly invented the Margherita in 1889 as a royal tribute. Tasting menus from $45.