The Impulsive Traveler: Forget the green beer, and try a Boston cocktail

(Liza Weisstuch/ For The Washington Post ) - Oyster shuckers and bartenders work side by side at the bar at Island Creek Oyster Bar, a sleek, modern incarnation of a classic New England seafood joint.

(Liza Weisstuch/ For The Washington Post ) - Oyster shuckers and bartenders work side by side at the bar at Island Creek Oyster Bar, a sleek, modern incarnation of a classic New England seafood joint.

It was just before 6 p.m. on a recent Tuesday when the bartender aimed the blowtorch at the fruit lying on a tiny hibachi grill and pulled the trigger. An orange slice and a cherry took on a glistening sheen as they burned. Then the bartender muddled the fruit into the Burnt Sugar Old Fashioned, a rough-and-tumble twist on the dignified classic.

Staff members were scurrying through Clio, James Beard award-winning chef Ken Oringer’s flagship restaurant in Boston. Couples and small confederacies of businessmen settled in at tables in the dining room, whose neutral tones and unflashy decor lend it a coziness not usually expected from a restaurant that serves foie gras ravioli and black licorice roasted Muscovy duck and confit.

More from Travel

All about premium economy

All about premium economy

Everything you want to know about the advantages of premium economy seating on planes.

The Johnstown Flood revisited

The Johnstown Flood revisited

Johnstown, Pa., memorializes the second-deadliest natural disaster in U.S. history.

Details: Johnstown, Pa.

Where to go and what to know in Johnstown, Pa.

Reviews of selected travel apps

Reviews of selected travel apps

We take several apps for a test run in Atlanta.

If you go: Boston

The unpretentiousness is also unmistakable at the bar, where paintbrushes, blackened Middle Eastern limes and blowtorches are just a few of the objects not commonly found beside shakers and strainers. Todd Maul, the bar manager, explained my next drink.

“We take Mayflower Porter and stick-blend it in an immersion blender with yellow beets and pink peppercorns, then spin it out in a centrifuge to give it the feel of an amaro. You just get the coffee and hoppy and chocolate notes of the porter,” he explained as offhandedly as if he were giving directions to the restrooms. “Then it’s cut with Carpano vermouth. I didn’t want it to be too heavy, so I used Canadian whiskey to lighten it up. Instead of using beer as the forward part of it, I wanted the beer notes.”

The burgundy-colored drink was baffling in the way that string theory or the Sistine Chapel are baffling. All I could do was marvel at this manmade thing of beauty. That was when Maul told me that chemistry students from MIT, a stone’s throw away across the Charles River, have told him that they’re impressed with his centrifuge, a device more commonly found in medical labs.

When it comes to drinking in Boston, the options have long fit the stereotypes. In the beating heart of Red Sox Nation, you have an excess of sports bars. And if there’s a game on, you’d better believe that even higher-end bistros will have televisions playing to rapt imbibers at the bar. And as a historically Irish city, it probably boasts as many pubs as biotech labs.

But over the past years, the nefarious mob boss James “Whitey” Bulger has been caught, the “Big Dig” has been concealed by a welcoming greenway, and gleaming condos have been sprouting where punk-rock-era dive bars once reigned supreme. It has also become much easier to find bartenders who can wax esoteric about their drinks. Yes, this craze coincides with the cocktail renaissance that has emerged in major cities internationally, but in Boston, it’s a delicious affirmation of a reinvigorated city stripped of many of its stereotypes.

One thing that’s still guaranteed, however, is the flood of tourists every March. This month, the Guinness flow can probably be measured by river lengths; jaunty fiddle tunes and the Dropkick Murphys’ “I’m Shipping up to Boston” play with the ubiquity of samba in Rio during Carnival. But for discerning drinkers, the true pots of gold are nowhere near the crowded Ye Olde Irish pubs.

Loading...

Comments

Add your comment
 
Read what others are saying About Badges