Distaste widening for shark’s fin soup

Video: Yip Chiu Sung, vice chairman of Hong Kong’s Sharkfin and Marine Products Association, and Poon Kuen Fai, who runs On Kee Dry Seafood Co. Ltd. in Hong Kong, discuss the future of shark finning.

In many countries, these lobbying drives involve all the trappings of a political campaign: the Bahamas National Trust, a non-profit organization that manages the country’s park system, has run public service announcements on radio and TV, collected 5,000 signatures in favor of the shark fishing ban and gotten advocates, including artist Guy Harvey and “Sherman’s Lagoon” cartoonist Jim Toomey, to visit the islands to generate popular support.

Still, Matt Rand, who directs global shark conservation for the Pew Environment Group, said that only a decline in the demand for shark’s fin soup will help preserve sharks. “I hope we’re getting to a tipping point,” Rand said. “We’ve still got a way to go.”

Video

Selam Karasimbe, a Papua New Guinean villager, is one of the few who still perform a shark-calling a ritual at sea in which he tries to summon sharks.

Selam Karasimbe, a Papua New Guinean villager, is one of the few who still perform a shark-calling a ritual at sea in which he tries to summon sharks.

Gallery

More on this Story

Even in China, a shift has begun. This spring, a lawmaker in the National People’s Congress introduced legislation that would ban shark fins, and in Hong Kong, a cadre of students has begun to advocate for sharks within both academia and social circles.

Vivian Lam, who studies marine science at the University of Hong Kong, first tried to resist eating shark’s fin soup at a cousin’s wedding more than a decade ago. Sitting with her family in Hong Kong’s Convention and Exhibition Centre, surrounded by hundreds of guests, Lam whispered to her grandmother once the waiters whisked off the silver domes covering the bowls and set them down on the table: “I don’t want to eat shark’s fin soup anymore,” she confided. “Can you eat it for me?”

Her grandmother was unrelenting. “You silly girl,” she lectured Lam. “This is such a good shark’s fin soup we have. It’s already made. People will think you’re ungrateful.”

Lam gave in that day, but now that she’s in her 20s, she, along with several of her friends, no longer eats shark’s fin soup. The most environmentally conscious students at the University of Hong Kong manage to reserve one or two “green tables” at their weddings where shark’s fin soup isn’t served. The university, in fact, has adopted an anti-shark’s fin soup policy.

Tsui Lap Chee, the university’s vice chancellor, no longer lets professors or administrative officials expense shark’s fin soup on their business meals.

But while shark’s fin soup consumption is waning in Hong Kong, the restaurateur Norman Ho says, this decline is more than outpaced by the surging demand in mainland China.

“China is at the beginning of the cycle,” he says. “In China, the market for shark fin is growing as they are getting more and more rich.”

Excerpted from “Demon Fish: Travels Through the Hidden World of Sharks” by Juliet Eilperin. Copyright © 2011 by Juliet Eilperin. Reprinted with permission by Pantheon Books, a division of Random House. All rights reserved.

Loading...

Comments

Add your comment
 
Read what others are saying About Badges