DGS Delicatessen’s lunch counter has goodness to go

DGS Delicatessen introduced its new carry-out service this week, which makes the restaurant -- at last! -- more like a traditional deli. Because as nice as it is to sit down to plates of holishkes or hot smoked salmon, sometimes you just want a good pastrami sandwich and a cream soda to go.

Like this beauty:

Maura Judkis/for The Post

DGS doesn't skimp on the pastrami. The sandwich is the most expensive one on the carry-out menu at $13, but it's worth the splurge. GOG tasters were also pleased by the rye bread, which has extra-crunchy caraway seeds lining the crust.

Next up: The whitefish salad.

Maura Judkis/for The Post

It's mixed with a liberal dose of pickles and fried capers, and dressed with tart tomato jam. Radishes add a hint of crunch, and it all goes in between halves of a Montreal bagel, which are wood-fired and a touch smaller and sweeter than what some folks might be used to.

In his early thoughts on DGS, Tom Sietsema wrote that the restaurant imports its bagels from Montreal's St-Viateur Bagel shop. This happens to be a former favorite of one of our tasters, who lived in Montreal for nearly a decade. He said their freshness may have suffered a bit in the flight, but that the style was just right -- except because Montreal bagels are smaller than New York bagels but with a bigger hole, they're not always ideal for sandwich-making. "Better with just a bit of schmear," he said. Because of the architecture of these bagels, the whitefish squishes out of the sandwich, making this a messy one. Don't waste a bite of it..

Also featuring Montreal bagels: The smoked salmon pastrami.

Maura Judkis/for The Post

The addition of cucumber salad keeps this from being your usual bagel-and-lox combo. The salmon is, as Sietsema wrote, "silken." It went well with the eggy potato salad and the Dr. Brown's celery soda that we also sampled.

Last, and kinda least: The roasted turkey sandwich.

Maura Judkis/for The Post

Though the gribenes and avocado were intriguing, the sandwich was so smothered in pepper relish that it quickly grew soggy. If you get one, ask them to go light on the sauce.

Maura Judkis covers culture, food, and the arts for the Weekend section and Going Out Guide.



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