The Washington Post

Bidwell to open in Union Market on Thursday

Union Market is getting its first full-service restaurant, and much of the food you'll eat there will be grown on the building's roof. Bidwell, headed up by New York chef John Mooney, will open its doors in the market space next to home-goods store Salt & Sundry on Thursday, Jan. 9.

General view of Edens Celebrates Re-Opening Of UnionMarket With 1st Annual Sunday Supper on June 3, 2012 in Washington, DC. (Photo by Leigh Vogel/Getty Images for Edens) Union Market (Photo by Leigh Vogel/Getty Images for Edens)

Billing itself as  "roof to table" restaurant, much of Bidwell's produce will be grown in 70 aeroponic planters above the market, a philosophy Mooney brings from his previous other gig at the West Village restaurant Bell, Book and Candle. The agricultural technique grows vegetables and fruits without the use of soil.

"My vegetables aren't grown for storage or transport," he told the Village Voice in a 2011 interview. "And harvesting at proper times of the day, you see a benefit. It's perfect -- rather than looking for sources, I am the source."

The 120-seat restaurant's decor will match the industrial chic feel of the rest of the market. On the menu, you'll note a hint of the South in signature dishes from Mooney's previous gigs: deviled eggs with homemade ranch dressing, gin and tonic salmon with caramelized cauliflower, and suckling pig. The restaurant will be open Tuesday-Friday for lunch and dinner, and Saturday-Sunday for brunch and dinner.

Bidwell, 1309 5th St. NE. 202-547-0172.

Maura Judkis covers culture, food, and the arts for the Weekend section and Going Out Guide.



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Lauren McEwen · January 5, 2014

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