January 16, 2013

Regarding the Jan. 9 Food article “The business end of fine dining”:

I am an advocate of the “waste not, want not” approach to eclectic food preparation. But I wonder if Graffiato sous-chef Adam Brick is blurring the line between fine dining and “shock” cuisine by using eggshells in his tasting menu.

I understand that many chefs see their way to "chefdom" as coming through one-upmanship, but eggshell is about as relevant to cuisine as Lady Gaga is relevant to performance art. I think it’s fair to say that an eggshell trapped in my omelet does not benefit the taste; I am curious to know the culinary benefit of eggshells.

Should we now expect to be presented with various assortments of eggshell? Will we soon be debating the use of pigeon eggshells vs. those of guinea fowl? It all reminds me of Monty Python’s “Crunchy Frog” skit, in which a chocolate factory incorporates into their line of confectionaries cockroaches, lark’s vomit and, well, crunchy baby frogs. I need a bit more information before I’m ready to swallow eggshells on my plate.

M. Scott Saarlas, Chevy Chase