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Dinner at this snug Belgian restaurant in the Palisades always makes me wish I lived closer. Every neighborhood deserves an Et Voila!, a source of steamed mussels and beer-based beef stew that is priced for regular workdays but could just as easily host a celebration.

This is the rare restaurant where, recently at least, appetizers take a back seat to main courses. (Warm pea soup in summer? Tuna tartare still?) That said, I love the all-white, crisp and sharp salad of chopped endive, diced apple and blue cheese. Lobster risotto is beautiful and luscious; crisp-skinned branzino comes with fresh ricotta gnocchi; and duck confit with pureed potatoes puts me in a Paris state of mind.

So do the desserts, which include very good profiteroles and a cloud of meringue on a pool of vanilla custard — an ile flottante that floats my boat.