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The letters stand for Golden Brown Delicious, three words that apply to two hot dishes here: fried chicken and doughnuts. Lunch finds this fan in line for a juicy thigh and a drumstick, served with a fluffy warm biscuit and a choice of sides: chunky potato salad mixed with tangy yogurt some days, chickpeas tossed with feta and tomato another. Nights deliver a slightly expanded menu, with “big plates” of fish and chips and chicken-fried steak.

Regardless of the time, I seldom leave without a doughnut or three, offered in such fun flavors as Campari and grapefruit or the new Dough-reo dusted with Oreo crumbs (and better than it sounds).

Place your order at a counter up front, then admire the whimsy of the room as you wait to hear your name called. Lighting up the joint are fryer baskets repurposed as lights; the dimples in the metal chairs suggest doughnut holes.

Credit for the savory side goes to chef Kyle Bailey of sister restaurant Birch & Barley in Logan Circle; the sweet stuff comes from his wife, pastry chef Tiffany MacIsaac. May their trends live on.