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“The pizza is a cross between Old World and Neapolitan,” the sunny server says as part of her introduction at Ghibellina in Logan Circle. The pizza, with its raised lip, perfect char and yeasty character, is also marvelous. Part of the fun is slicing it yourself with the fancy shears the round comes with.

Bread is just part of the appeal of a visit to this brick warehouse of a gastropub, named after a street in Florence where co-owner Ari Gejdenson once lived and worked. Pickled shrimp, rustic chickpea soup, sliced roast veal, the city’s finest panna cotta and whatever seasonal vegetable is being offered ought to fit into your dinner plan here, too.

Oh, the pesto on the gnocchi is faint and the fish stew is ordinary, but that’s true of little else among the small plates designed by Jonathan Copeland. The chef formerly worked at Palena in Cleveland Park, among other ace kitchens, experience you can taste in (almost) every bite.