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I never expected to fall in love with a foreign accent from another city, but that’s what happened when Philadelphia restaurateur Stephen Starr launched this expansive French restaurant in Logan Circle in April. The house-baked baguettes come with an authentic crackle. The shellfish platter, arranged with a fan of mussels, sparkling scallop seviche and glistening Belon oysters, celebrates a treasure from the deep blue sea.

Le Diplomate, under the care of executive chef Adam Schop, executes a perfect omelet, an expert steak au poivre, a divine apple tart, everything delivered by some of the best servers in the city.

The catch? The stage set of a dining room is as noisy as a train station, and despite nearly 300 seats, reservations prove tough tickets. My advice: Bring ear plugs and aim for off hours. The roast chicken alone is worth the bother.