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Joseph Victor Stefanchik/For The Washington Post

Rogue 24 is tucked away in Blagden Alley, and the nighttime walk down the uneven bricks of the National Register of Historic Places-listed passage makes you feel like you’re really going somewhere. The destination: a meal that may last upwards of three hours, a point underscored by the name of the $135, 24-course menu called “The Journey.” There’s also a 16-course, $115 menu called “The Progression” and a four-course menu that’s somewhat easier on the wallet ($75) but available only Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday.

But take note: The prices include dinner and a show, with the entertainment provided by chef R.J. Cooper in the central, open kitchen where he and his team assemble the courses with scientific precision. Maybe a seared foie gras with honeycomb and ice lettuce, or an escargot gnocchi, or some other delicate combination of flavors that inevitably involves tweezers.

—  Maura Judkis