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Tracy A. Woodward/The Washington Post

With meticulously handwritten menus and a team of fast-moving chefs offering a feast for the eyes as well as the stomach,
chef Frederik de Pue’s morsel of a restaurant is a counterpoint to the sprawling Le Diplomate: a special find rather than
the trendiest restaurant in town.

De Pue’s restrained menu favors rich meats and cuts: think duck, veal sweetbreads and braised beef cheeks. Order vegetarianĀ and you won’t get rich lentils or a gruyere-heavy gratin, but perhaps a hearty, eye-poppingly pretty gourd stuffed with roastedĀ vegetables. (The menu changes regularly, surely a pain for the designer tasked with menu rewrites.)

De Pue’s sprawling seafood restaurant, Azur, closed in September after only a handful of months in business, and we can’t
help but hope a renewed focus on his firstborn will be a boon for Table’s devoted diners.

– Lavanya Ramanathan