With meticulously handwritten menus and a team of fast-moving chefs offering a feast for the eyes as well as the stomach,
chef Frederik de Pue’s morsel of a restaurant is a counterpoint to the sprawling Le Diplomate: a special find rather than
the trendiest restaurant in town.
De Pue’s restrained menu favors rich meats and cuts: think duck, veal sweetbreads and braised beef cheeks. Order vegetarian and you won’t get rich lentils or a gruyere-heavy gratin, but perhaps a hearty, eye-poppingly pretty gourd stuffed with roasted vegetables. (The menu changes regularly, surely a pain for the designer tasked with menu rewrites.)
De Pue’s sprawling seafood restaurant, Azur, closed in September after only a handful of months in business, and we can’t
help but hope a renewed focus on his firstborn will be a boon for Table’s devoted diners.
– Lavanya Ramanathan