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Astrid Riecken/For The Washington Post

The name Thally (pronounced TAL-lee) is grounded in the past and the present. It’s a nod to both the Shaw neighborhood’s 19th-century Tally-Ho stables and co-owner Sherman Outhuok’s daughter, Thalia.

Co-owner and chef Ron Tanaka’s concise American menu — with a mere six appetizers and six main courses — is sophisticated yet approachable. The veteran of such kitchens as New Heights, Cork Wine Bar and CityZen, Tanaka’s most intriguing dish might be his crab roulette, a slender wrap filled with delicately sweet peekytoe crab and garnished with cauliflower florets and a vinaigrette tweaked with Old Bay seasoning.

Long and narrow, with flashes of aqua and eggplant in its furnishings, the dining room gathers together a granite-topped bar, blackboards attached to old barn-door hardware and lots of brick. Thally is a beaut.

— Tom Sietsema