November 4, 2005 | 5:00pm
When I was in Los Angeles last month I saw a lot of low (and even no) carb food that was supposed to make -or keep- you healthy and slim. This concept would never work in Belgium of course, as we just love our bread, chocolate and beer too much!

I pondered this fact once more when I paid a visit to Korte Gasthuisstraat last Saturday, where two loaded-with-carbs shops are located almost side by side since decennia: Goossens Bakery and Chocolaterie Burie. At Goossens on nr 31 people line up in the street waiting for their turn to buy a 'Roggeverdoemeke' (whole wheat rye bread chocful with raisins), homemade cookies or huge crusty breads. Everything you buy here smells so divine that you have to take a bite before you even leave the tiny shop again. A couple of houses down the street towards Lombardenvest on nr 3 you find Burie, who not only makes the best chocolates in the western hemisphere but also is extremely inventive about the forms he presents them in: beer bottles, chickens, the local Mayor, a chess board, or a soup tureen complete with ladle, nothing is too difficult to make for Mr. Burie and in December he and his team go into overdrive, making chocolate dreams that fill not only the shop windows but also to entire shop, up to the ceiling. This too has to be seen and smelled to be believed.

All those gastronomic delights have made my stomach grumble, so I head towards trendy bar-bistro Berlin at Kleine Markt 2. As it's situated close to hip Kammenstraat and close to the Antwerp designer fashion streets, Berlin is very popular with fashion people, photographers, actors and other beautiful people, who enjoy the stylish décor, the great coffee and the simple-but-delicious food, that is served very fast and looks almost as good as it tastes. Whether you love meat, fish or vegetarian cuisine, you'll find it here and you won't pay through the nose for it. Truly and address for those in the know.

The same thing goes for Walrus, the newest 'It' restaurant in the South District that is specialized in new style Belgian cuisine. No minimal portions here of course, just the classics such as steak-frites or chicken in red wine prepared freshly and healthily. And affordably (during week-days Walrus offers a daily changing menu for 8 €)which makes for a nice mix on students, loved-up couples and local homeowners who enjoy an uncomplicated dinner here before going home to watch TV.

Or go out for after dinner drinks and more, which I decided to do last time I went there. Luck would have it that on 'my' square Lambermontplaats at nr 25 a very special restaurant/bar opened its doors a couple of months ago: in Zozan you can obviously eat and drink to your heart's delight (their far eastern specialities are out of this world), but you can also look at vintage ethnic textiles and jewelry in the adjoining gallery -and even buy it if something strikes your fancy. And as some of these pieces also decorate the restaurant, you'll have plenty of time to admire them and to figure out how they would look on your own dining room wall!

For a gourmet there's no better place to go after having a good dinner than to a typical beer bar like De Muze (Melkmarkt, 15). I'm tasting a Duvel seated in a great spot to watch the jazz band, surrounded by intimate conversations. I think I'll take just one more and then I'll move away from the lovebirds.

Sitting in a café never was my thing anyway really, so I cross the old town and I go directly back into my trendy 'South' neighborhood. No attitude, great sound and even better views! I'm drinking a dry martini in Popi Bar (Plantinkaai, 12), a minimalist gay-friendly club with big windows looking over the river Scheldt that hosts great Belgian DJ's every night. Walking around in the 'South' district of Antwerp is like being on a catwalk when all the terraces are open and there is almost no space to pass by without stopping in every one. I choose Cafe au Lait (Oude Beurs 8) - not for coffee but for soul music to train my hips for a night of clubbing. Careful: you'll drop off here if you try to stay all their extremely long Happy Hour.

After midnight is the perfect time to take a cab taking you right into the red light district. I can't resist this atmosphere somehow and it takes me right to Café D'Anvers at Verversrui 15 . I remember hearing about Grace Jones coming to party here in the early nineties, and now that acid and house music are declared dead, they are playing her songs again, plus early Madonna, performed by a bold Miss Kittin'.

It's very late now and somebody is waiting for me in the City Park: the hottest club in town is here under the trees and close to the lake.

Cafe Capital on Rubenslei 37 is a playful area, with young people dancing to the ultimate electro. I'm on the guest list for a session with the 'Scissor Sisters DJ' tour, so I am one happy little bunny now.

Some sweaty hours later I see a couple of friends who drive me back into town to Buddha Bar at Luikstraat 6, where many fashion designers, models and other trendsetters crowd the venue. Funky and chill-out beats are very welcome now to end the party and the night and thankfully there still is some place on the comfortable couches to enjoy a final cocktail.

Some friends are talking about moving to Het Eilandje (the island), as there's an afterhours party in club Kaaiman (Napelsstraat 57) in a cozy neighborhood near the harbour. Let's see if I still find some energy for that after finishing my sushi!

Find travel packages to Antwerp by visiting coolcapitals.com.