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By Lee Fleming
Special to The Washington Post
Thursday, July 20, 2000; Page H01

The drop from an airplane's baggage compartment door crushed the big bag checked by Washingtonians Jackie and Pat Roberts. It also flattened their plans.

"We were heading to this formal wedding and had pared stuff down to this one big bag that I stuffed like a sausage," design consultant Jackie Roberts remembers. "If you know how we usually travel, this was a miracle."

Waiting to take off, her husband amused himself by watching the baggage handlers at work. "All of a sudden," Jackie says, "he elbowed me and said, 'Honey, isn't that our bag?' "

Splayed on the tarmac was their high-end leather suitcase, seams split wide open. "The airline people finally stuck the bag in some kind of box, and we got it at the other end--but everything was ruined," she recalls. "Part of my dress must have hit an oil spill. Pat's suit was covered by gunk from broken bottles."

The Robertses were able to borrow party clothes from their hosts but ended up having to buy two "much cheaper" suitcases to use on the rest of their trip. "We really had no option," says Jackie. "It was the weekend, a small beach town and who knew where to get a repair?"

Unlike that hamlet, the Washington metro area has at least a dozen luggage repair shops prepared to mend the damage that travel takes on luggage.

John Shafakian, owner of Bethesda Shoe and Luggage Repair in Bethesda and Parole Shoe and Luggage Repair in Annapolis, clucks at hearing the Robertses' plight. "Listen, with some airlines, you may as well throw the bag under a herd of elephants and let them trample it," he says.

Shafakian, 48, started learning the shoe and luggage repair trade back in Armenia at age 11, during time off from school. When he came to the United States in the mid-'70s, he worked for an Italian shoemaker, picking up the finer points of the trade before opening a shop in Annapolis and later another in Bethesda.

Very little, he claims, is beyond the shop's scope. "As long as the luggage is worth it, we'll try to fix it."

But before you decide on fixing a damaged piece, he advises, ask your repair expert for advice: He or she should know the relative cost of repair vs. replacement for most bags. "Wheels for high-end luggage like Hartmann will be more expensive," Shafakian says, "but then, so is the bag." (According to Steve Cohen at Lane's Luggage in the District, a 30-inch-upright Pullman case by Samsonite runs $270 and the comparable case from Hartmann is $595.)

"With cheaper bags, forget it," Shafakian adds. "Unless it has sentimental value, get a new one."

Like many of the smaller shops with staff trained in old-world traditions, Shafakian is able to offer the hand-sewing and other techniques needed for more complicated repairs.

However, the most common repair requires rivets--not a needle and thread.

"The first things to go are usually the parts like wheels, handles and zippers," Shafakian says. Most luggage-repair shops carry a good inventory of appropriate parts from the manufacturers, so replacing them isn't a problem. Replacing handles is a bit trickier and requires removing a bracket. Less expensive plastic varieties start at $21, with leather around $45.

Most of today's luggage zippers are plastic, he says, so when they get broken they must be completely replaced. However, older and very high-end luggage made with metal zippers may need to have just the teeth replaced.

Remember, says Shafakian, that if a suitcase has a framework of metal tubing and the zipper goes around that, more time-consuming, and costlier, hand-sewing may be required.

Nylon is the overwhelming choice for today's bags, given its light weight and resistance to water. But Shafakian also works with leather, canvas and woven tapestry-type materials. In most cases, rips can be patched and sides replaced using the manufacturers' fabric. Generally, a patch from behind suffices to close the tear almost invisibly. If the tear is in a "shaped" or particularly stressed area, hand-sewing may be needed.

If fabric has been torn off and there's not enough left for an invisible patch and mend, Shafakian will make a visible patch for a stronger repair. "If possible, we try to work with the existing pattern and match or balance it. If your corner gets ripped and patched, we'll put a patch on the opposite corner, so it looks intentional."

Shafakian does not reline luggage but will stitch a torn lining seam. And although he repairs vintage suitcases, he cautions that the leather is often too dry for stitching. "It will tear when the needle goes in." He also stopped monogramming luggage a few years back--too many problems. "Sometimes, the bag material and monogramming machine are incompatible."

The shop also has locks for all major domestic brands, although "a thief will just cut through your bag's material if he's serious," Shafakian says. He also can add shoulder straps and the rings to hold them.

Repairs require from one to 10 days, depending on the extent and type of damage. However, emergency fixes are made "while you wait" to satisfy hotel clients who need same-day repairs. But be sure to get an estimate before work starts, he advises. "I will not start without making sure the customer knows the cost. But I must see the piece to know what will be required."

What can the wise traveler do to prolong luggage life?

* Protect your handles. For example, if you have a suitcase with a T-shaped pulling handle, make sure you tape over it before check-in. Otherwise, it may pop out and twist off during handling.

* Clean fabrics to keep stains from weakening material. Nylon responds to soap and water. Heavier fabric and tapestry bags can be treated with upholstery cleaners.

* Waterproof leather and suede. Either do it yourself (most repair shops carry products for the job) or have the repair shop do it for you.

* Finally, if you invest in leather luggage, heed the instructions that come with your new bags. Use a leather cleaner and conditioner at least twice a year to prevent cracking and wrinkling.

Where to find it: Bethesda Shoe and Luggage Repair, 7900 Old Georgetown Rd., Bethesda; 301-654-1860. Parole Shoe and Luggage Repair, 2060 Somerville Rd., Annapolis; 410-266-6311.

Know a source you want to share? Write to Finds/Fixes, c/o Home, The Washington Post, 1150 15th St. NW, Washington, D.C. 20071 or fax: 202-334-5059.

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