The Congolese are famed for their warmth and hospitality and Kinshasa, perhaps surprisingly, has a negligible crime rate.

The ability of Congolese to cope just when it looks as though things could hardly get worse — popularly known as "la debrouillardise", which translates loosely as the art of getting by — is legendary. This ability has been sorely tested in the past two decades through war and the collapse of state structures. But the population has had little choice but to take matters into their own hands and make do.

Music and a pride in appearance are still integral to the city's life, although the bar district of Matonge is subdued these days. In view of the population's hardship, it is all the more astonishing that Kinshasa is one of the safest African cities. Unlike other larger Africa cities such as Lagos, Nairobi and Johannesburg, Kinshasa has a negligible crime rate in spite of high poverty and unemployment levels. And, with the now inactive frontline never closer than several hundred miles, the sprawling capital has remained largely unaffected by the violence of the three-year armed conflict.

Located along the banks of the mythical Congo river, Kin-la-belle — or beautiful Kin — has gently declined through the corruption of past regimes and a lack of public spending. As a result, municipal infrastructure development has not kept pace with the growth in the city's population — now estimated at 6 million — and the vast majority of the capital's residents live without many basic amenities.

Under Mobutu, Kinshasa's N'djili International Airport has the dubious distinction of being one of Africa's most difficult to navigate, impossible to exit without leaving behind a trail of dollars. This changed with the arrival in power of Laurent Kabila in May 1997, who is credited with cleaning up the airport. Much to the relief of local residents and visitors, this has since remained the case.

These days, visitors expecting to find the overwhelming chaos of Lagos or the insecurity of Johannesburg are usually surprised at what the Congolese capital has to offer. Downtown Kinshasa, although bustling on a weekday, remains manageable even to the first-time visitor, and most basic services such as access to the internet and cellphones are readily available.

Ultimately though, the soul of the city is its people. Congolese hospitality is legendary, even by generous African standards, and Kinshasa remains an old favorite amongst Africa hands the world over.