Vittoriale degli Italiani (25083 Gardone Riviera, www.vittoriale.it; $7-$20) is an art deco villa crammed with oddities and beautiful furnishings, including Murano glass and extensive gardens. There is also a war museum and gardens.
Market day is Wednesday in Gardone Riviera, Thursday in Bardolino, Friday in Sirmione and Saturday in Malcesine.
Lake Garda, Italy's largest lake, is dotted with more than two dozen villages, like the picturesque Malcesine.
() Johnathan Smith, Cordaiy Photo Library Ltd./corbis)
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LAKE MAGGIORE
WHERE TO STAY: Hotel Pironi (Via Marconi 35, Cannobio, 011-39-0323-70624, www.pironihotel.it) is small and intimate. Once a Franciscan monastery, the 12-room hotel is appointed with antiques, with a locals' bar on the ground floor. Rates are $127 to $170, including breakfast.
WHERE TO EAT: Ristorante A.D. (Plaza V. Emanuelle 27), along the lakefront, serves fresh fish and vegetables seasoned with fresh herbs; dinner for two with wine is about $55.
WHAT TO DO: Hikers and mountain bikers are attracted to the quiet charm of Cannobio, just three miles from the Swiss border. Maps and trail guides are readily available. Routes range from easy walks to strenuous hikes over rugged terrain.
The Alessi design factory (www.alessi.it) is at 6 Via Privata Alessi in the town of Crusinallo di Omegna on Lake Orta; look for the teapot in the sky.
Michele Abate's blacksmith shop (Via Magistris 16, Cannobio) is easy to find. His goods spill out of the entrance and onto the lakeside promenade.
Market day is Sunday in Cannobio, Wednesday in Luino and Friday in Stresa.
LAKE COMO
WHERE TO STAY: Hotel Excelsior Splendide (Via Lungo Lago Manzoni 28, 011-39-031-950225, www.hsplendide.com) in Bellagio offers a range of rates and plans. Figure $160 to $185 for a double with breakfast and dinner. Skip the dinner, but have a glass of wine and watch: Guests look as if they have stories to tell. The Kennedy Farm (Piani de Nesso, 011-39-031-918906), seven miles outside the town of Nesso, offers lodging from March to October. There is no heat, so the season ends when it gets cold. Prices start at about $42 double, including breakfast.
WHERE TO EAT: It is 103 steps up to Trattoria S. Giacomo (Salita Serbelloni 45, Bellagio), and worth every huff and puff. It is so popular that customers are given pillows to sit on the steps and wait for a table. Try the smoked fish salad and the creme caramel. Dinner and wine for two runs about $75.
WHAT TO DO: Market days in Como are Monday through Saturday at Via Mentana 15; an antiques market is held the last Saturday of the month.
INFORMATION: Italian Government Tourism Board, 212-245-5618 , www.italiantourism.com.
