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Peaceful Shots on a Former Battlefield

In 1979, Zahir was killed -- ostensibly in a car accident, but, it was whispered, more likely by murderous former in-laws or leaders of the communist regime that had seized power. Six months later, the good times ended for the club as well when Soviet tanks rumbled into Afghanistan.

Abdul, suspected of being a spy for the United States, was arrested and jailed for half a year. Upon his release, he escaped to Pakistan, where he found work as a taxi driver.


Afghan golf student Mohammed Hashem practices on the course of the Kabul Golf Club. The black patch in the distance is the green, which is actually made of sand mixed with motor oil. (N.c. Aizenman -- The Washington Post)

In the ensuing years, Abdul mostly gave up golf.

"I couldn't afford to play on a course," he said.

But he managed to keep up some of his skills by practicing at home. "I may have broken a few windows," he said with a laugh.

Meanwhile, the Kabul course was turned into a battlefield by a succession of warring militia factions, culminating with the extremist Taliban militia.

Then, in 2001, the Taliban was defeated by U.S.-led forces. Several Afghans persuaded the new government to allow the club's reopening and have leased the grounds for 20 years, although so far they appear to have invested relatively little. A U.N. employee donated several sets of clubs, and a de-mining agency agreed to check the course for old land mines.

If there was any hope of recapturing the club's glory days, however, Abdul was needed. Fortunately, he had just moved back to Kabul.

The $80 per month he was offered as director of the golf club was less than what he was making as a taxi driver.

"But I felt it was my duty to accept," Abdul said.

Besides, he said, it felt good to return to the source of so many happy memories.

"When I see my students, I remember the days when I was learning, and I think of all the parties and the fun times at the club," he said. "Then I become young again too."


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