A Moveable Yeast

The inspired monikers of the Belgian beers fell mostly into two categories: Those named for saints (e.g. Augustin, Bernardus, Sixtus) and those named after biblical miscreants (e.g. Lucifer, Satan, Judas). The menu was an epic of good and evil fought with hops, yeast, malt and water.

Having braved the dangerous side of the menu, I wanted something benevolent, reassuring, solid. I chose a beer called Hercules. The waiter returned with a fancy ceramic bottle containing a coal-black elixir that rose to a creamy-tan head.

"It's stronger than Guinness," he warned.

I wanted to make a snappy remark, but I found that La Guillotine had cut off my tongue. Then the waiter vanished again, disappearing into the smoke like a mischievous genie returning to his bottle.

Over the next few days, my malt-motivated meanderings turned up a respectable array of beer establishments, ranging from dank dives to elegant microbreweries.

Remember that France is on the metric system, so draft beers are poured in denominations of the liter. The most common serving sizes are 50cl (basically a pint, and sometimes listed as une pinte) and 25cl (typically called un demi). Pints average about $7. For fancy Belgian and French bottled beer, expect to pay upward of $7 each.

Here are a few favorites:

• L'Academie de la Biere (88 bis Blvd. de Port-Royal, 5th arrondissement). In addition to Belgian brands, the casual, decades-old restaurant serves beers from Germany, Denmark, England, Australia and, of course, France.

Nearest Metro: Vavin. Info: 011-33-1-43-54-66-65.

• Horse's Tavern (16 Carrefour de l'Odeon, 6th arrondissement). Located near the Luxembourg Gardens, this cafe boasts nearly 200 beers from 24 nations in its stable. Especially noteworthy is the selection of "biere de garde," a uniquely French variant characterized by its golden color, rich maltiness and delicate sweetness. Brands like Ch'ti, Trois Monts and Jenlain are excellent representatives of this style. The bar's locale also makes it a great spot for surveying Paris's street life.