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What's Cooking

Low-carb craze, spud tips, pork roasts...

Kim O'Donnel
washingtonpost.com Staff Writer
Tuesday, February 10, 2004; 12:00 PM

Calling all foodies! Join us for What's Cooking, our live online culinary hour with Kim O'Donnel.

A graduate of Peter Kump's New York Cooking School, Kim spends much of her time in front of the stove or with her nose in a cookbook.

Kim O'Donnel (Craig Cola - washingtonpost.com)

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Get a taste of the season with What's Cooking This Fall, Kim's latest video series.

The transcript follows.

Editor's Note: Washingtonpost.com moderators retain editorial control over Live Online discussions and choose the most relevant questions for guests and hosts; guests and hosts can decline to answer questions.

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Kim O'Donnel: Hello, hello! Sorry I am running late. Today has been crazy already, so pardon the hiccups. I was at the podiatrist this morning --getting a cortisone shot!-- for some cranky tendonitis. Tell me some stories, things you wanna know about, things you wanna share. I'm up for a good laugh. By the way, this Thursday, Feb. 12, I'm doing a sweetheart special just in time for Valentine's Day. For now, let's hear it!

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Springfield, Va.: Kim, I've been trying some recipes from a new book by Alain Ducasse, that my wife gave me for my birthday. It's a lovely, lavish publication, and the dishes aren't nearly as complicated as one might expect, given his stature.
However, for his fork-mashed potatoes with olive oil, he recommends baking the spuds on a bed of sea salt before mashing. Hey, they were good, but what's the rationale of the bed of salt?

Mark

Kim O'Donnel: I've heard of this technique, Springfield, but I don't know exactly WHY Ducasse has chosen to do so...the spuds will absorb the salt, but they won't become super salty. It sounds to me like baking a whole fish in a blanket of salt.

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Arlington, Va.: Good Morning Kim,

Submitting early so that I don't forget to ask. In the past when I make cinnamon rolls, I make them the night before, put them in the refrigerator to rise and bake in the morning. My question is, would I be able to make them on Friday night and keep them in the refrigerator until Sunday morning? Will the rolls just dry out or will I kill the yeast? Many thanks.

Kim O'Donnel: I think you'll be okay. I'll let the refrigerator risers speak up, but if they're covered well with plastic, you should be fine for a Sunday morning bake.

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Somewhere, USA: Kim- Please Help! I'm having friends over for dinner tonight and found an interesting recipe for coconut spinach rice. I'd planned to make it and then when I looked over the recipe last night it doesn't seem right. It seems like a LOT of liquid is being added at the very end of the cooking process and I am concerned this will be a mess. Please let me know what you think of the recipe. My backup plan is to try it more like a risotto -- adding coconut milk/veggie broth and then stirring in spinach to finish. I've tried many things thanks to your chats and hoping you can help me try one more!

Heat 2 tsp evoo over med high heat
Saute 1 tbs minced ginger and 1 cup rice 30 seconds.
Stir in 1 cup water, 1 cup light coconut milk, 1/2 tsp salt and bring to boil.
Reduce heat, cover and simmer 15 minutes.
Puree 1 cup light coconut milk, 1/2 tsp salt, 1 tbs lime juice, 2 cups sinach, 1 tsp sugar in blender.
Fold spinach puree into rice.

Kim O'Donnel: Lemme share with you my recipe for coconut rice, then we'll figure out how to handle the spinach puree part. I use 2 parts liquid to 1 part rice, so if you're doing 1 cup rice, you'll do 2 cups liquid. Use 1/2 coco milk, 1/2 water, which I see you're doing, then let it cook...I like the idea of minced ginger...As for the puree, it does seem liquidy, and spinach already contains a lot of water. I'd puree with lime juice and maybe a few ounces of milk, THEN add to rice, as it's finishing up. See if theat works.

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Susan Weiss, Richboro, Pa.: I eat a lot of gluten free and vegetarian (for medical reasons). Whenever I bake with gluten free flours (mixes by Bette Hagman), the recipes always seem very bland. What do you suggest?

Also, what do you think about using a slow cooker for vegetarian soups or stews?

Thanks!
Susan

Kim O'Donnel: Hi Susan, any sugar or salt in those recipes? I also would need to check on what's stripped of those flours -- or tips for baking in this style. I have a book around here somewhere. Give me a few days to do some research. Re: veggie slow cooking: there's a new title out just for this, but I tend to be wary as I hate to see people cook stuff for 6, 8 hours that doesn't need it. Let's hear from others on their slow-cooker experiences.

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Virginia: I bought a bag of red lentils from an Indian grocery and used it to make soup over the weekend. When I went to rinse the lentils before using them, I was surprised by how dirty the water was... it literally looked like milk. So I rinsed again. And again. After 4 or 5 times, the water was still not clear. I went ahead and used them anyway, but I'm wondering, were these lentils just really, really dirty, or is this milky water just some "lentil thing"?

Kim O'Donnel: I can't vouch for the "milky" thing, but I do know that sometimes you just gotta rinse those legumes really well. Glad you did.

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Somewhere, USA: re: spinach coconut rice. What is evoo?

Kim O'Donnel: I'm betting extra virgin olive oil. And I'm thinking that it's optional -- you could use canola if you wanted.

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Re Springfield Va. and Salt: My understanding is that the salt is a very efficient heat conducter. It's not really used for seasoning, but rather to ensure quick and even baking.

Kim O'Donnel: Yes, that sounds about right. Cheers.

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Washington, D.C.: OK Kim, I think that the carb insanity around me is starting to make me question my eating habits. I don't drink soda or processed foods, but I like rice, pasta, and bread (in reasonable quantities). I'm thin and healthy, yet people keep giving me the "Do you know how many carbs are in that?" attitude every time I take a bite of my mashed potatoes. Should I be reducing my carbohydrate intake?

Kim O'Donnel: It's driving me crazy, too. I also don't drink soda or processed foods, and I also like rice, pasta and bread. It's about moderation, baby. You know that. Don't let the hype fool ya. And don't fix if it ain't broken. You sound like a reasonable person, so keep on keepin on...moderation!

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Somewhere, USA: cinnamon buns: I would think they might be pretty yeasty tasting by sunday morning. I know when I have left things to rise much longer than you are suppossed to, they have come out kind of beer-y tsting. Though I have never tried letting something rise in the fridge for 2 days.

Kim O'Donnel: Mmmm.thanks for weighing in on this yeasty matter...

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Falls Church, Va.: Hi Kim - question about frying: My husband and I adore making fish & chips every couple of months. Is it possible to save the oil or should it be dumped and just use fresh? I thought I heard that it could be strained and refrigerated but not sure if it's safe to do that. Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: Falls, if you're making the stuff once every few months, my feeling is chuck the oil. Oil has a life span, and in those few months, it could go rancid. If you were using the same oil the next day, different story.

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Kim,

I'm wondering whether it's worth it to buy a food processor. I seem to be running across more recipes calling for one, though I've generally been able to use something else (like soup in a blender rather than processor, etc.). What are other uses, and is this a kitchen must-have? Thanks in advance!

Kim O'Donnel: If you cook a few times a week, a food processor is a great tool to have. You can make sauce, hummus, all kinds of soups, you can do batters -- yes, it's worth it.

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New York, N.Y.: Hi Kim,

My sweetie sent me two boxes of HoneyBell oranges recently. They are wonderful, and I would like to use them in a Valentine's Day dinner. Do you have any recommendations, especially for a main dish, in which I could use these oranges?

Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: Oranges, particularly in their prime, are wonderful in salads -- with spinach, arugula or a bunch of mixed greens...you could also make a fab orange sauce for chicken or duck or pork...what say you?

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Re Springfield Va. and Salt:: Instead of baking potatoes on a bed of salt, i wash potatoes before baking and rub the skin with salt - makes it crispy and delicious

Kim O'Donnel: Thanks for your delicious spud tip...

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Alexandria, Va.: How do you know if oil has gone rancid? Does it smell? I have a big Sam's Club-size jug of vegetable oil from ... well ... several roommates ago. It doesn't smell nasty, but then again I don't know what it should smell like. If it's rancid and I cooked with it, would I get sick?

Kim O'Donnel: You wouldn't get sick, but you might make some lousy-tasting food without even trying. Rancid oil smells bitter. Off. Strange. It tastes even stranger and makes you wanna gack.

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Maryland: Does this sound like I've done the right thing?

Had a boneless leg of lamb that I cut to lay flat, pounded it, S&P, then brushed the inside with a mix of dijon mustard, olive oil, red wine, grated garlic, and grated ginger. laid on springs of rosemary, then rolled up. plan is to brown it on the stove, then roast until pink with shallots and whole garlic cloves in the pan. figure I can make a gravy from the drippings. any other suggestions? have never made lamb before except for chops.

Kim O'Donnel: Sounds better than the right thing -- c'mon over and share! Let us know how it goes.

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Bowie, Md.: Hey Kim, I was hoping you could help me fill in some blanks. A couple of weeks ago I was skiing in Utah and had a seafood pizza at lunch. Here's what I know was on it: crab, shrimp, combo of yellow, orange and red bell pepper, scallions and cilantro. There was no traditional cheese or sauce. The menu listed the sauce as "lobster sauce with white wine." I did some research online and can't find any consensus on "lobster sauce." Some sites said it contained no lobster but was meant to be served with lobster, and other places gave recipes which involved making a broth from lobster shells. So my question is, what type of a sauce would you use if you were trying to make this? Also, what type of cheese would you add? I was thinking something crumbly. Thanks.

Kim O'Donnel: Have you thought to call the restaurant and ask? Lobster sauce should have some lobster something in it, and yes it could be lobster stock, made by lobster shells...tell me more about the pizza. was the sauce thick or thin? did it seem enhanced with a roux (flour and fat?)

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Greenbelt, Md.: Hi Kim-

When baking in glass Pyrex dishes should you adjust the temperature or baking time? I have a brownie recipe, and several others, that say to use a metal baking dish, but all I have is glass.

Kim O'Donnel: I have always noticed that glass dishes take less time than metal dishes...but I don't have a scientific answer for that at the moment. Perhaps this is one for the food science guru Wolke who writes a column for the Food section?

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Charlotte, N.C.: First-love the chats! Thanks for being there and pushing us chowhounds to try, try, try...
This Christmas I made baklava for the first time-it wasn't too bad for a first timer. I wanted to know what else can I use the excess phyllo dough in my freezer? I have already made salmon wrapped in phyllo-any other suggestions?

Kim O'Donnel: spinach and feta is fab, made into little triangles for party treats...could also do sauteed mushrooms and goat cheese...can put sauteed apples and rosemary and pinenuts...

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Falls Church, Va.: RE: Rinsing Lentils

The "milky" water is perfectly normal. You still need to rinse your lentils well but it's ok.

Kim O'Donnel: Thanks for reassuring our readers....

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Washington, D.C.: I am wanting to try my hand at making miso soup. Any suggestions for places in DC to pick ingredients like miso paste, dashi stock, or daikon?

Kim O'Donnel: In DC, you can try the big shop in Chinatown on H Street...someone please help me out with the name...any other faves for Asian groceries in DC itself? By the way, there are a whole bunch in Virginia and Maryland...

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Kim! I love these chats, thanks for giving out all this great advice and inspiration. I have a meaty question today -- I don't cook much meat but there's a pork tenderloin recipie that my husband loves so I was going to make it Saturday. The problem is that it says grill for 25 (?) minutes each side. It's obviously not grilling weather around here, so can I broil it? What's the rule of thumb for converting times between methods?
Thank you!

Kim O'Donnel: No sweat...roast it at 450 for first 10 minutes, then turn down heat to 375 for remainder of time. Use a internal meat thermometer to check on temp after 40 minutes; you want about 165. Cheers.

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Falls Church, Va.: Hi Kim--I had to give you some feedback on your roasted chicken video. I had one in my fridge and didn't know how to cook it. Before I left for work last night, I watched your video and printed out the recipe. When I got home, I followed your lead, and the results were amazing! It was flavorful, moist, inexpensive, and so easy! Took your advice to roast some potatoes in the same pan, and they were killer. I didn't think I would be up for the preparation after a long day at work, but prep time was short, and I could catch up on my book while it cooked. My only complaint was the smoke created from that first 20 minutes at high heat. Next time, I'll turn my exhaust fan on sooner. This was the second recipe I tried from your video series (the first was the biscotti, which is now my favorite food gift to give at the holidays). Seeing the steps on-screen makes it less intimidating. Thanks again for doing those videos!

washingtonpost.com: What's Cooking This Fall Videos

Kim O'Donnel: Wow! Good for you, Falls Church. I made the very thing on Sunday night, and yes, it never fails to please. Keep up the good work.

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Kim O'Donnel: by the way, the roast chicken video can be found here.

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Rosslyn, Va. re: Phyllo dough: I recently made a chicken pot pie from scratch - excellent, if I do say so myself. I used phyllo dough for the top crust and loved the taste and texture but it didn't brown well. I baked it at 400 degrees. I'm sure I needed to put a wash/glaze on it. What should that have been made of??

Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: A splendid idea, Rossyln! A wash can be egg white mixed with water or egg yolk mixed with water. Your choice.

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Somewhere, USA:Stupid Q re. Butter: Neither my husband nor I use butter, but our toddler has developed a taste for it. We're never able to use an entire package before it expires. Can we freeze sticks or pats to make it last?

Thanks much!

Kim O'Donnel: Sticks can be frozen, yes indeed. Have no fear...

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Somewhere, USA: Extra Phyllo: Wrap some bites of brie in it, bake and serve with raspberry coulis. Divine.

-Sticks

Kim O'Donnel: Hey, Sticks. Nice idea, and oh I've had minneolas, in case you're still looking...

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Somewhere, USA:carb lover question and slow-cooker suggestion: Hi Kim,
I made bread over the weekend, and substituted whole wheat flour for regular, all-purpose flour. The revised recipe didn't take nearly the amount of flour as usual (3.5 cups instead of 4.5) and was quite dense. it didn't rise very much at all (though it still tastes pretty good). What should I do when I try this again in the future -- let it rise longer, add more yeast? or should i just try to find a good recipe for whole wheat bread rather than my long-time fav for Golden Cake bread?
love the chats!

Also, for slow-cooker ideas, I've found that very seldomly do you need a full 6-8 hours, though if you're doing a stew or some sort of roast, it helps make the meat incredibly tender. For instance, I use my slowcooker for making tostadas (Mexican pork and beans) and that definitely takes all day for it to disolve in the desired, mushy mash. My mouth is watering just thinking about it!

Kim O'Donnel: If I recall, Beth Hensperger would say you'd need to adjust your flour...and even better, let's find you a good recipe for whole wheat bread. Can you email me so I can get you the details?

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Reston, Va.: Good afternoon, Kim!
I have a question about pears. Is it okay to store them in the fridge? I don't usually keep fruit in the fridge, but I bought some lovely bartlett pears this weekend, and now have decided to make a Valentine's Day dessert out of them. Will they still be good if kept in the fridge till Sat? I'm planning to cook them in a marsala-cinnamon sauce and serve with ice cream.

Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: Okay to store them in fridge, but not necessary. They need to soften up just a tad...

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Kim,
I aleays enjoy reading about your cooking adventures. Please advice on how to enroll in the Master Course at the Culinary Institute for Foreigners in Costigliole d'Asti, in Italia. Thanky. John.

washingtonpost.com: An Italian Journal

Kim O'Donnel: Hey John, thanks for the warm thoughts. I have not been in touch with the folks in Costigliole lately, but I can check and see if they're still doing their thing. Email me and I'll get you an answer.

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Rosslyn, Va: COCONUT-SPINACH RICE:
If your using finely chopped spinach, I won't Blend the spinach to puree. Also i won't add any lime juice either. Try using rhind if absolutely needed. Else leave it out.

Baking in Glass Vs Metal
Ceramic is an excellent absorber/retainer of heat. so its the best container to use for baking. And yes, it will require lower temperatures than for metal which will loose heat as quickly as it can get hot.

Kim O'Donnel: Thanks for all your good words...

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Charlotte, N.C.: On the question of baking with Pyrex/glass dishes, I reduce the oven temp by 25 degrees and then bake for the amount of time the recipe calls for. I've always gotten good results.

Kim O'Donnel: And more on baking with Pyrex...good one, Charlotte.

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Somewhere, USA: What a coincidence! I bought some red lentils this weekend, too. How long do I rinse? Can I just soak? I want to try to replace pasta/rice in my diet, and am loving some salmon I bought. How would I cook the lentils to eat on their own, and with the salmon? Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: You can soak, you can rinse, whatever works for you. They don't need a lot of thought. Soaking actually isn't necessary for lentils, which makes them one of the easiest legumes in the family to prepare. You can cook them with onions, garlic, ginger, a bit of liquid...tell me your flavor faves and we'll steer you right.

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Kim,

Am making a filet of beef for my sister's bday today and the recipe in Barefoot Contessa parties tells me to roast a 4-5 lb filet in 500 degree oven for 25 mins and then let sit in foil for another 20 mins. I have a filet that is only 3 lbs. Should I cook it less time than the recipe says because it is less meat, or the same length of time because it's the same width/thickness? Thank you!

Kim O'Donnel: What is your desired temp, Washington? I think that's what I'd use as my barometer. It may be that you'll need to roast for less time, so keep a close eye...

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Kim,
I'm craving pork - my friend makes a great pork loin in the oven but when pressed for details she just says "throw it in the pan and season it!;" I need a little more help than that. Thanks!;

Kim O'Donnel: Well, it kind of is like that. Salt, pepper, garlic (make slits with knife, some chopped rosemary with butter...there are tons of way to season...and then take a look at my earlier post...you can start it a higher heat, then reduce...see if this works for you.

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Washington, D.C.: I would like to make a low carb dessert for a valentine's day get-together. I wonder if you or anyone participating has ever made meringue cookies (kisses) with Splenda. I'm afraid the egg whites would be unstable without the sugar in the normal recipe. Anyway, I would love to have a recipe if anyone was successful with Splenda. Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: Anyone have thoughts on this splenda-meringue matter? Remember, we've still got Thursday to unravel this mystery...

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Rosslyn, Va. re: carbs: I had to laugh at the earlier poster's dilemma about coworkers commenting on his/her food and "all of those carbs". I eat a tremendously varied diet - lots of fresh fruit and vegetables and usually bring leftovers for lunch. The Atkins Nazis have commented several times on how my broccoli or my orange is "loaded" with carbs! I've not commented on how their low carb diet isn't reducing the size of their be-hinds but (with one 't') I've come close!

I'll take my chances with a varied, healthy diet. I think I'll be attending their funerals, rather than the other way around.

Kim O'Donnel: The horrors of broccoli --egads! Thanks for your comments. Stay well.

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Fairfax, Va.: Re: Carbs... Kim, you are right it's all about moderation and what works for the individual. I think when I was doing the low-fat thing I ate more pasta, rice and bread. Now I have cut way back on the refined carbs, still eat lean and have lost almost 30 lbs.

Kim O'Donnel: More on the carbs craze...

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Maryland: How did the toddler learn to like butter if mom and dad don't eat it? Just curious!

Kim O'Donnel: Dunno...let's ask...

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Virginia: I have a great veggie meatball recipe that I make using gimme lean sausage. There is an egg in the meatballs... if I want to make this for vegan friends, is there something I could use in place of the egg? Or can I just omit it entirely?

Kim O'Donnel: There are vegan egg replacers, which many readers use with success..you could also try bread crumbs...a bit of soy yogurt???

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Birmingham, Ala.: Kim--I'm whipping up my bestest cheesecake recipe for my Valentine, but would like to make little cheesecakes instead of one big one. Can you help me with translating baking times? The recipe calls for 40-45 minutes at 350 degrees for a 10-inch pan, 50-55 minutes for a 9-inch pan. I'd like to use 4-inch pans. Is it possible? And how deep/high should I fill the smaller pans?

Love your chats...Baking in Birmingham

Kim O'Donnel: BB, I will check for you and promise to have an answer by Thursday. Tune in then, and we'll get you fixed up. Cheers.

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Washington, D.C.: What's the best way to make sure your shrimp cocktail comes out translucent and not overcooked?

Kim O'Donnel: Cook for about one, two minutes. Full stop. Doesn't take long. YOu'll see it transform before your very eyes.

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IndyGirl--Ground Turkey: I have ground turkey breast in the frig. I was thinking about making turkey chili--but actually would prefer to make a turkey burger. I remember that you had a recipe that you liked. Please post. I can't find any recipe that really toots my whistle.

Kim O'Donnel: Indy -- do somethin' like this: a little dijon, a little soy, a little hot sauce, a little sesame (or olive) oil, some chopped garlic, some chopped fresh parsley. Egg white works nicely as a binder, as well. Others like a dash of ketchup. Your choice.

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Silver Spring, Md.: How long will an uncut avocado keep once it's ripe? Store on counter or in fridge?

Kim O'Donnel: Keep pit in there, wrap it up, store in fridge. One day max extra life. Sorry.

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Kim O'Donnel: Guess what, gotta go. Please join me for the love fest on Thursday. Can't wait to hear all about your plans ...maybe it's you, yourself, and you; maybe it's you and your pal, maybe a special sweetie...doesn't matter. Love is grand, love stinks, love is necessary like eating. More on that on Thursday. Until then...peace.

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