Home Sense

Mike McClintock (For The Washington Post)

Have questions about how to keep your home fit and trim?

Home Sense columnist Mike McClintock is online every other Thursday at Noon ET to answer your questions about home building, remodeling, repairs and the wide range of home-consumer issues. If it has something to do with the place where you live -- from home security to the latest on appliances, energy saving and a lot more -- just ask. Mike has the answers.

McClintock's column appears in the Post Home section every Thursday. He is the author of 10 books, including "Alternative House building."

The transcript follows.

Editor's Note: Washingtonpost.com moderators retain editorial control over Live Online discussions and choose the most relevant questions for guests and hosts; guests and hosts can decline to answer questions.

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Mike McClintock: Hi there: Amazing how the seasons change so suddenly. It's freezing and then you get bluebirds, greening trees and the very weird part, in only a few days, you can go from sitting outside utterly bug free to swatting away such humongously gigantic flies. The spring versions seem to be a little torpid, but how they get so big so fast is mysterious, aside from being kind of a pain.

But on a positive note this spring I'll be investing (not very much, about $100 with grass catcher bag) in a non-power push mower- one of those oldies but goodies. It provides more exercise than power mowers, clips grass for a cleaner cut instead of smashing across it like a rotary motor, makes that wonderful sound, and also reminds me of great b+w movies like Best Years of Our Lives (the early scene when the vets come home and Pop is mowing the grass.) It's also time to put the top down on the car, so pretty good all around.

I was thinking about favorite houses, maybe for next time. So for this week it's a look into how the space in typical houses is allotted- while I get started on your questions.


HOME SENSE- ROOM SIZES -QUESTION
Given the basic rooms of a house in the list below (that's finished living space), see if you can rearrange them by typical size (or square footage of total floor space, same thing.) I'll give you a head start- working smallest to largest -with the first and last on the list in correct positions.

Space % of Ttl Sq. Ft.

Dining Room 7% 170
Living Room -
Family Room -
Kitchen -
Foyers/Halls -
Bathrooms -
Bedrooms 36% 817

Total Sq. Ft. 2287

- and we'll get to your questions now

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Dale City, Va.: I am seeking referral listing for competitive bid home renovation sources in the area for my home. I require a rebuild of my driveway and carport. Need info for local sources?

Mike McClintock: So if you're looking for a referral service, perhaps another chatter from your area will respond- or you can do the legwork most people get stuck doing when looking for a contractor.

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Mt. Rainier, Wash.: Any thoughts on fiberglass framed windows? We're looking at replacing all the windows in our home and are looking at fiberglass-framed windows, with wood clad interior. We really like the fact that exterior fiberglass can be painted, as opposed to vinyl-clad windows which cannot be painted, ever. Thanks.

Mike McClintock: Modern fiberglass units are not bad, and should save a fair amount of money over all-wood windows. I usually pat more attention to the glass.

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Mount Vernon, Va.: We've recently added a screened porch with hot tub to our home. The floor is currently unfinished wood. The builder suggested indoor/outdoor carpet, but we'd like something a little nicer. Is there outdoor tile that wouldn't be too slippery for the hot tub area? What about stone? What are the relative costs of the different materials?

Mike McClintock: If the porch is hung on joists, I’m assuming, you probably don't have the strength needed to add something like stone or tile- and you would need to install underlayment and more, i.e. it would get complicated and expensive.
Indoor-outdoor carpeting might work for a while, but that stuff often winds up smelling like old sneakers, as I recall.
Maybe look into one of the garage-system floors: interlocking rubber mesh squares that would allow drainage, provide better grip- and you could remove them for cleaning.

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Alexandria, Va.: It's been more than a week since we've had a heavy rain and our sump pump is still running every half hour or so. We are in a swampy area, but could something be happening that shouldn't be?

Mike McClintock: If there's water in the pit, the sump is doing what it's supposed to do. But that is kind of a while. Check that first, and take a close look at the float. Many sumps have a float that rises as the water rises, and if it gets stuck it could be tricking the motor into running.
if there's water, of course, you need to track back to the source and divert the stream.

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Annapolis, Md.: Our bedroom window is on the 1st floor. During the spring and fall we keep this window open all night. We would like to put something in the window to slow down an intruder who might be interested in crawling in. We don't want bars, but something that either is not ugly or removable every morning.

Any ideas?

Mike McClintock: Aside from the smart-alecky answers- like a huge dog- you can't really have it both ways: wide open venting and yet security with no bars or window gates.
A reasonable compromise might be to open the bottom and top sash a few inches each, and install window pins through both sashes where they overlap. That makes the sash into one unit; the pins are easy to remove; and you could drill extra holes to secure the units (somewhat at least) in other positions.

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Stockton, N.J.: Hi Mike, I have a 1952 cape cod style house here in New Jersey. On the kitchen floor are 5 layers of floors, alternating linoleum with wooden sub-floor, We have already taken up three layers that were on top of these layers, the difference with these last layers is that they have a strong plastic odor, besides being extremely reluctant to come off. My question is, is there any danger in removing old flooring as far as harmful materials that may have been used to manufacture them? Especially old linoleum....thank you.

Mike McClintock: The main risk- and you might well excavate down to it in a 50s house, is VAT, or vinyl asbestos tile. The plastic odor isn't necessarily an indicator of that at all, and maybe just be fumes from the adhesive. Anyway, the current thinking on asbestos is that it's best-left alone- not removed by the HAZMAT teams in white suits and respirators. On your own, the problem is that in breaking up the floor you make the asbestos friable, i.e. little filaments become airborne- and the stiff can be deadly long term.

I'd have a sample of the lower layers checked before you go any farther, then either cover up the asbestos in layer one or two, or go down to the joists and start again.

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Fairfax, Va.: Are tankless hot water heaters a good idea?

We have plenty of room for our gas-powered hot water tank, but if it could save money and/or provide additional capacity...

Mike McClintock: Generally tankless systems don't compete well with standard heaters. They are smaller, but you don't need that. They work by heating water on demand: it runs through a tight coil, which is enveloped in flame, heating the water before it leaves the unit. I've found that they work well if there isn't much hot water demand, and no multi-demands like trying to take a shower when clothes are washing.
I'd stick with the big tank. They’re very efficient, stuffed with insulation, and don't represent only a small piece of the home energy bill. Ad they're very convenient. Tankless systems are better if you have no space, or need hot water for a remote location that would need a very long pipe run from the main heater.

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McLean, Va.: Hi Mike,

We plan to embark on a major renovation or rebuild next year. I do some interior design work and have the ability to purchase items wholesale. Can I negotiate with my contractor do buy cabinetry, windows etc... myself at wholesale rates or will they balk at these suggestions? Your advice is greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Mike McClintock: Depending on the discounts, of course, it would be wise to alert the contractor, and then consult on specifics of installation and all that. You will be removing one of the ways contractors make money, so the guy may say what about delivery, replacements, an extra hinge and all the other services he can get from his supplier.
But if your discount is substantial, it makes sense to make the arrangement part of the contract. Just be sure you specify exactly what items are from you v. from him.
I do remember a cartoon in a garage- something about don't ask me to fix it with your tools, point being that the guy may want your items cut from any warranty he provides. It's a bit ticklish, as you surmised, I think.

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Arlington, Va.: Hey, Mike. Is it normal for a mild sewer odor to come from a bathroom sink drain when water goes down it, especially if it hasn't been used in many hours or if we've been away for several days? It's most annoying. Thanks!

Mike McClintock: No amount of sewer odor is normal; it's always bad, and, believe it not, sometimes lethal. That's what traps are for- to keep a solid wall of water, as a seal, between the septic system and the house. My wild guess is that your sink trip is siphoning somehow, or maybe it's an old design that doesn't provide a full s-type seal, or both.

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Frederick, Md.: Recently, a falcon has decided to land on my second floor deck railing and sit for a while. While I don't mind this, it has dug small chunks off the edge of the railing (probably by grasping the edge with its claws). Should I just put stain on those areas and try to blend it in with the rest of the railing? Thanks.

Mike McClintock: The stain would work, but I'd be building him a perch.

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Garrett Park, Md.: My gas bills this winter were high because my brick/cbs 50's home does not have insulation in the walls. What's the best way to approach this? Can I do foam insulation applied by punching holes in the drywall, or should we tear down the drywall and put in the pink stuff, then replace the drywall? Is one product superior to the other? Thanks!

Mike McClintock: It depends on how the wall is made, but assuming you have some framing space, punching holes and blowing in insulation would likely be the least expensive and disruptive. Drawback is that contractors often need two holes, and if there is framing blocking the middle three, and at some point you wonder why you didn't pull down the drywall and start again.
One insulation isn't really better than the other. It's more a case of how best to approach the job. You can compare products by R-value- so much per inch, like about 3/5 for fiberglass and so on.

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Washington, D.C.: I am considering tearing down my house and building a new house from a house plan I found off one of those stock home plan Internet sites. First question, on average, how much per sq. ft. does it cost to build a new home in D.C.? And, does purchasing stock plans really save you money if adjustments need to be made by architects to meet local codes? Thank you!

Mike McClintock: To rebuild from scratch on the same site you really should be checking with an architect or engineer- not so much to alter the plans as most of the decent firms cover themselves code wise. But you'll need to verify the footings and foundations, go again with septic or sewers and a lot more.

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Herndon, Va.: I live in a townhouse and am very warm on the 3rd floor in summer. To help cool things down, would it be more beneficial to install ceiling fans in 3 bedrooms, or add an electric exhaust fan into the attic/roof? Other alternatives? Which would work best AND save more money in cooling costs?

Mike McClintock: If you're air-conditioning, it would be costly to dump a lot of cool air with an exhaust fan, and less costly to use a fan for circulation.
When an exhaust fan dumps air at the top of the house, usually lower windows are cracked to bring in cooler air and get a full exchange. But if that new air is hot and muggy it sort of defeats the purpose. Those exhaust system work better where you actually get cooler and dryer air in the early evening and don't then need more AC.

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Mt. Rainier, Md. - follow up on Window question: Thanks again for taking the question. In terms of paying attention to the glass - it looks to me like all the major manufacturers we're looking at (Milgard, Marvin, Pella, Andersen) have very similar glass - low-e, argon filled as an option. Am I missing something?

Mike McClintock: That's the ticket.

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Interlachen, Fla.: We purchased a piece of property in Interlachen to retire to. The house on it was built in 1878, and I want to restore it. I don't quite know where to begin. I've already contacted the historical societies, all the way up to the state level. Very vague answer to my questions. Do you have a contact for This Old House, or something similar?

Mike McClintock: Guess I’d spend time trying to find out everything I could about the house, then try to locate area architects, contractors, suppliers who had a history of good restoration work, as you'll need locals. It's a daunting task if you're talking about real restoration versus repairs and modernizing without too much altering the look of the place.

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Lakewood, N.J.: Dear Mike: We appreciate your help. Our main sewage pipe (PVC) exits the house (5 years old) through a larger PVC sleeve, which is mounted, into the cinderblock foundation basement wall. There is a 1"-2" space between the exterior of the PVC sewage pipe and the interior of the PVC wall sleeve. Since the exit point is 2-3 feet sub grade, it was insulated with some type of aerosol foam to prevent ground water entry. Either through degradation (or cracked during a contractor dig to attempt a waterproofing of the cinderblock basement wall), rainwater now flows through the foam-insulated space between the sleeve and the sewer pipe. This contributes to the water problem we already suffer due to our porous cinderblock foundation walls. I went to large chain as well as smaller plumbing supply stores where I was told that none of the products they carry are suitable for below grade applications. One place recommended roof tar, while another said I should use any silicone caulking despite the sub grade warning. I was advised not to try hydraulic cement as it might crack the PVC on expansion and not provide a good water seal against the PVC surface. Another problem is chipping out the foam that’s well hardened inside the cinderblock wide space, so that we may refill it with something to stop the water flow. We would be eternally grateful if you can provide us a solution to this dilemma. Many thanks.

Mike McClintock: Yuck- and it's already cost you a lot of time aside from the wetness and trouble. So maybe at this point attack it outside, only 2ft or so down, two ways. One, use tar (like roof cement consistency) to seal the sleeve- and maybe add some fiberglass tape and more tar (like an old built-up roof) to provide more layers of protection. Two (maybe first) dig a mini drywell there and fill it with gravel so ground water will drain away from the spot.

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Rockville, Md.: Hi Mike,

Does one typically need any kind of permit before a relatively modest project like removing a non-load bearing wall or adding a door to an existing wall?

Mike McClintock: No, but depends where you are. It's usually wise to call the local building department, but interior repairs that don't alter the load bearing structure are typically not code covered.

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Greenbelt, Md.: Hi Mike, I'm hosting a birthday party for my mother at our home. It will be an outdoor affair and I was thinking of having a patio (with large paving slabs) installed.

Is it feasible to try to get this done before the party on the 7th of May or am I being overly ambitious? Also, if any chatters know of a good contractor, that would be great!

Mike McClintock: Not quite a month away, so it's a question of finding a contractor, or maybe landscaper, or maybe a supplier where they will also install the blocks.
Unless the ground is wet or hilly or something else other than flat and ready to go, whew, it's a very straightforward project that should only take a day or two tops.

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Crofton, Md.: Two questions- first, with the sump pump, who do you get to check it out? We've had it 12 years, no problems, knock on wood- but shouldn't it be maintained somehow? And Two- do you know anything about how to get rid of moles besides the grub thing? I realize this is the wrong chat for that, but what would be the right one?

Mike McClintock: No secret tricks for moles; I let them have their way. On the sump, it's a plumber for repairs. Service is just to dump a pail of water in the pit every year or two to be sure the float rises and the motor kicks on- and that the outlet pipe isn't blocked.

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Bethesda, Md.: Mike - I read last week or the week before's "chat" and was curious about the questions on the generators. Have you done any columns on house generators? Can you give us a link?

Thanks!

Mike McClintock: My record says Portable Generators ran early March '03, so it should be available on the Post archive. For links, you might start with the Electrical Generating Systems Association (EGAS), and also retailers that offer a large selection. To get a handle on prices I often check the Sears Craftsman catalog.

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Hyattsville, Md.: I am a senior and handicapped, how do I find an honest and reasonable contractor to do minor repairs on my home?

My house is 50 years old. I need a few major repairs. Can you help?!

Mike McClintock: I'll be answering that with the attention it deserves in an upcoming column- in a week or two, mainly taking a lot of the suggestions I’ve written about before and putting them into abbreviated checklist form.
It's so common a question, and impossible to answer completely here.

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Silver Spring, Md.: Question on furnaces for you. This is the third winter in our house -- oil-burning furnace is original to the house (1974). I change the filter every month -- the heating people have been out every year to do a check-up.

I am tired of dusting every day! Do new furnaces spit out less dust? I got told "yes" by the heating guy who serviced it last fall -- but I got the feeling he was just trying to make a sale. You're not out to make a sale -- so what do you say?

Mike McClintock: If you're ok with the furnace otherwise (efficiency, etc) look into installing an electronic air cleaner. It does a much more thorough job than standard furnace filters. Also, consider (much less costly) using filters at the return-air register. Yeah, another one to change periodically, but could help for a small investment.

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Adams Morgan, Washington, D.C.: Any thoughts on adding recessed lighting to my 3rd floor (out of 7) apt? Is this something I can do myself, or should I hire an electrician? Also, how much distance between my ceiling, and the above apt's floor would I need--I really don't think I want to settle for track lighting?

Mike McClintock: You want the electrician, mainly because enough recessed lighting to light a room means many fixtures and maybe a new circuit and a slew of dimmer switches, which means snaking new wires through walls and all that. Also (a lot of also) you need to be careful about heat build up, a fire hazard, which could be a stopper.

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Staunton, Va.: Hi. I am looking to put a humidifier on my furnace. Any suggested model and price? My current one has a water tank with a wheel with a filter on it. Rather a pain to maintain with inserting water softeners each week and also changing the filter 2-3 times a year. Was looking for a "better" one.

Also with building, I am looking to install windows and doors with the mini-blinds between the panes. Have these type of windows and doors had a good track record so far and how much more expensive per window and door should I see compared to "normal" windows and doors?

Thanks for your help. Mike McClintock: Don't often supply one name over another, but have installed a few April air drip systems that work very well through you need to clean every year as with all systems.

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Silver Spring, Md.: Mike, I love these chats and always find them informative.

I have an unfinished basement with a plain concrete floor (old house). We use the basement mostly as a place for the kids to play. I'm thinking of painting the floor to make it cleaner and brighter. Is this a good idea? Will I doom myself to an awkward repainting job every few years? Can you suggest a relatively inexpensive flooring that might be better (linoleum? vinyl tile? parquet?)? I'd like to improve the space without doing a full-scale renovation.

Thank you.

Mike McClintock: With kids playing, yes, you'll probably be in the repainting business more than once. If they bang around and wrestle and like that, a carpet and pad would be nice, comfy, safe, warm and maybe the best bet as long as the place doesn't leak.

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Mike McClintock: Ran out of time too quickly, so resend if you can the next time, and--

HOME SENSE- ROOM SIZES -QUESTION
Given the basic rooms of a house in the list below (that's finished living space), see if you can rearrange them by typical size (or square footage of total floor space, same thing.) I'll give you a head start- working smallest to largest -with the first and last on the list in correct positions.

Space % of Ttl Sq. Ft.

Dining Room 7% 170
Living Room -
Family Room -
Kitchen -
Foyers/Halls -
Bathrooms -
Bedrooms 36% 817

Total Sq. Ft. 2287
Source: NAHB Research Center


HOME SENSE- ROOM SIZES -ANSWER

Space % of Ttl Sq. Ft.
Dining Room 7% 170
Foyers/Halls 8% 195
Bathrooms 11% 247
Living Room 12% 269
Family Room 13% 301
Kitchen 13% 288
Bedrooms 36% 817

Total Sq. Ft. 2287
Source: NAHB Research Center

See you next time.

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