Home Sense

Mike McClintock (For The Washington Post)

Have questions about how to keep your home fit and trim?

Home Sense columnist Mike McClintock is online every other Thursday at Noon ET to answer your questions about home building, remodeling, repairs and the wide range of home-consumer issues. If it has something to do with the place where you live -- from home security to the latest on appliances, energy-saving and a lot more -- just ask. Mike has the answers.

McClintock's column appears in the Post Home section every Thursday. He is the author of 10 books, including "Alternative Housebuilding."

The transcript follows.

Editor's Note: Washingtonpost.com moderators retain editorial control over Live Online discussions and choose the most relevant questions for guests and hosts; guests and hosts can decline to answer questions.

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Mike McClintock: Welcome back after the holidays, and finally some longer days and more sunlight- the first reminder of spring even though it's a way off yet. So, in a few days I'll be in Florida (poor me, I know) but covering the annual convention of the DC-based National Association of Homebuilders for the newspaper. Every big company even vaguely home related with something new to show is there- about 1600 of them, in fact. So in the next several weeks there will be lots of new home products, building materials and other goodies previewed here and in the paper. Meantime, take a whack at this week's quiz while I start on your questions.

HOME SENSE- BUILDING MATERIALS -QUESTION
Buying a home (new or old) often stretches the budget, and then there are more expenses to come, mainly for decorating, furnishing and other improvements in the first year of ownership.

How much do buyers spend in the first year after buying a new home?
- $12,905
- $8,905
- $4,905

How much do buyers spend in the first year after buying an existing home?
- $9,766
- $6,766
- $3,766
-and the figures don't include yet another expense: moving

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Alexandria, Va.: Mike --
My basement is 2/3 finished and 1/3 unfinished. The unfinished side has the furnace, blower and hot water heater.

I'd like to enclose all of that stuff into a little "utility room' and reclaim the rest of the space into new, finished rooms.

Is there any potential problem or anything I need to worry about when enclosing the funace and hot water heater (both are gas) in their own room?

Also the unfinished side is always much hotter in winter and cooler in summer than the other side. I assume this is from leaks in the duct work. What's the best way to seal the leaks and seams? There is some existing aluminium tape on some seams, but there must be a better option for sealing, right? Caulk?

Thanks!

Mike McClintock: The utilities are in their own room now, just a bigger one. Sure, if you build a hermetically sealed box along the edges of the machines, you porbably would retard the air flow required for proper combustion. To be safe, you might check with the mfgs about air requirements. But in a modest-sized room with, say, a vented door, you would be fine. You might want (and some places need) firecode drywall there.

And the duct leaks would be wise to fix no matter what, not with caulk, but better tape like "duct" tape.

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Washington, D.C.: I am looking to remodel my kitchen, but am finding it hard to find someone reasonable. It's a condo and I can't see spending over $30,000 for a new kitchen. Do you have any suggesstions? Home Depot can do it, but they won't demolish walls. Or, is there a place that will destroy walls (nicely)?

Mike McClintock: If you know it's a partition and not a loadbearing wall, why not destroy your own. You don't have to lay into them a sledge. Just pry away all the rim, thgen start pulling nails and prying away one panel of drywall at a time. It can be very orderly- and even quiet.

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Cold air leaking in: Happy New Year!;
I need some tips on ways to seal leaks and cut energy costs this winter. I upgraded the insulation in the attic and put plastic shrink-wrap seals in the window frames. I feel some drafts at the floorboard and around outer doors and cold air from uninsulated closets.

What are the best ways to seal these small gaps? Any other advice on tightening the seams of my brick bungalow? Many thanks!;

Mike McClintock: You've done some of the big things, and heat-shrink plastic over windows should help cut drafts a lot. So if there are some specific cold air leaks, consider spary-on-foam. It's sold in small cans, and comes out like shaving cream. So you can shoot it into small gaps. Then it expands rapidly ,filling the cavity and stopping the leak is the idea, and then hardens. If there's some excess you can easily trim it away.

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Midwest: How much do buyers spend in the first year after buying a new home? -- $4,905

How much do buyers spend in the first year after buying an existing home? -- $9,766

Mike McClintock: You're under on both- and i probably forgot some more expenses, aside from moving.

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Alexandria, Va.: Hope you can help. I just purchased a condo with lead paint. There are areas that are "buckling" and cracking -- I would think that peeling and paint chips are the next step. What do I do about it? Do I just use spackle and paint over the areas? Do I need to hire someone for some paint remediation? Can I fix it myself? I've read the brochures that came with the place and, frankly, they've just confused and scared me.

Thanks!

Mike McClintock: You got the lead disclosure form, but it didn't steer you clear of the purchase? Well, you should probably have a contractor look at it. The main concern is that sanding can creat a lead-laden dust that you inhale. If a chip falls on the ground and you remove it there is little if any risk.

But if you're not handy, haven't painted before and such you might make some errors and increase you risk. If there are little klids in the house the risks jumps radically.

Today, the main emphasis is to cover the paint instead of hiring the haz-mat team in white suits who spend a week in layers of plastic. Also, there are plenty of websites that offer more details on lead paint- plus a home sense archjive column on dust masks pops into mind.

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Washington, D.C.: I just bought an existing condo, and I'm going to be spending $5,000 on floors alone! $400 for paint, $4000 on new appliances. It's easy to see that the average is over $12,000

Mike McClintock: You're right on that one- and got it pretty early on but that's ok; it's $12,905 on average (for new houses), not counting moving and some other costs.

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Virginia: Our home was built in 1956. Teeny tiny bathroom with really cute black and white tile. We love it, but it's so tiny and cramped. Fixtures are boring, too, so when it comes time to remodel, is it possible to install a corner toilet and/or a corner sink without moving any of the piping and such? In other words, can we rip out the traditional toilet and sink and just install the corner toilet and/or sink in the very same spot? Or do you need to see the bathroom to even answer this question?

Thanks!;

Mike McClintock: Even though it might be swell seeing your bathroom, i don't have to because fixtures have to go where the pluymbing is, not vice versa. Moving a toilet, even a few inches, is really difficult because measurements to the main floor drain have to be right on.
Moving a sink is easier, and if it's a few inches you can use flexible supply connectors at least fore the faucets. Normally, a move mean you need to open some walls and reropute both the supply and drain piping.

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Harrisburg, Pa.: Mike: First off, I wanted to let you know that I have your book "Alternative Housebuilding" and find it a great resource.

Now for my question...what is the best way to run plumbing for a seasonal cabin, so that lines can be easily drained to prevent freezing.

Some background...We recently bought a cabin in an area where it's not unusual for the temperature to stay in the teens this time of year. As rustic as it is, it does have running water, toilet shower, etc. The problem is that the plumbing, while functional, is shot (i.e. it's obvious that the pipes have frozen and been repair so many times that they're just a disaster waiting to happen). The cabin is not heated in winter (actually I joke that it must have reverse insulation because it's always colder inside). When leaving during cold weather, we turn off the well pump, drain the lines and hot water tank as best we can, and fill the traps with RV anti-freeze. But at times, we have run into problems with the lines not draining compleletly (due to low spots, etc.). Instead of repairing the exisitng plumbing, we want to start from scratch, with a way to blow out the system if needed.

What is the best type of plumbing material and fittings to use for this application? What about heat tape, etc. Any advice/pointers to share?

Thanks much. -- S.K.

Mike McClintock: Glad you use the book; it's been a while since i did it, but the building systems still hold form. Anyway, you've hit on the main culprit, slope, which is easy enough to build in, even in a crawl space.
It helps to keep the plumbing plan minimal (back-to-back sinks and such), and if you can't and the pipes are farflung maybe have two drain points.
Though compressed air is used to fully drain in-ground sprinklers, don't see how it would translate too well to large-diameter drainpipes as some water would always want to flow back into the traps- and you want connections with the sewer system blocked in any case

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Riverdale, Md.: Hello...this might be more a home improv. question, but here goes...I own a 1911 craftsman-style home with an upstairs bathroom with a tub but no shower. I would like to rig up some kind of shower curtain rod without damaging the walls or ceiling--the walls, up to about armpit-height, are original subway tile. The rest of the wall & the ceiling are original, and crumbling, plaster. Is there anything on the market resembling a tension-mounted or free-standing shower curtain rod assembly or shower enclosure?? Thanks!;!;!;

Mike McClintock: Home repair-improvement-building, often winds up covering the same ground, and sure there are tension rods that could support the modest weight of a shower curtain, in most hardware stores. Or you could rig a tension rod meant for closets, who cares. But showering under crumbling plaster doesn't sound too cool, so a little improvements there (and a final couple of coats of high-gloss enamel, might help.

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Colorado: I think my wax seal on my toilet needs to be replaced as there is discoloration occuring in the grout lines on the tile around the toilet (yellowish). Is this an easy job or do I need a plumber?

Mike McClintock: Like most projects, it's easy if you know what you're doing- and mainly if the nuts holding the touilet bolts come away. Some installations have a plastic cap to protect the but; some have the nut exposed. But if you can release them, and disconnect the supply line (after draining the toilet as much as possible) you can lift the unit just enough to pry out the old seal and slip in another.

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So. Alexandria, Va.: Question about life span and cost of furnace and hot water heater: We have a 20-year old house with original equipment. So far furnace and hot water heater still work fine, but should we replace now, before finishing basement into ussable living space? If so, roughly what would be budget for it? I'd hate to put in nice flooring, walls, etc., and then potentially wreck them moving old furnace out, new one in.

Mike McClintock: It's not so much the appliance age as efficiency. You might have that tested, at least oin the furnace, the main user, bearing in mind that some new furnaces are over 90 percent efficient.
If you have a large fuel bill and replacement would take efficiency from 60 to 95, you'll save a ton of money every year, and the investment will have a very reasonable payback. Do the numbers. But a decent company would certainly be able to exchange appliances without wrecking the place.

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Man of steel in Arlington, Va.: I want to redo my kitchen. Currently, has beige laminate and wood trim cabinets, and beige tile backsplash with maroon trim. I'm hating that. I want to get (I know they're trendy)stainless steel appliances, and perhaps stainless backsplash. Is refacing or painting over them an option? Also, want to replace countertops. What looks best with stainless steel? I want to do it all, including modestly priced flooring (maybe Pergo) for less than $5k. Who should I contact and can it be done? Is Ikea worth considering? What are people's experiences in the Washington, DC area?

Mike McClintock: Think there may be a slight conflict with your plans and your budget. For instance, a good stainless fridge can run most of it, and over the top with same for the stove. Also, big-box stores aren't likely to offer cuistom metal work, which is what you would need for stainless backsplashes.
So if money is limited, even though you handle the labor, why not see how far it goes on appliances, then look at what's left and try to match that to materials.

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Raleigh, N.C.: The appliances I like best for my new kitchen are a mixture of brands -- and stainless steel and black. There's a black, smooth top range and black dishwasher I like from GE, stainless look refrigerator from Whirlpool, and stainless (with black trim) over the range microwave. Do you think this mix will look right? The range and dishwasher will be side-by-side, the refrig is across the room.
Thanks.

Mike McClintock: Some mfgs build in designs meant to be used in pairs, like a swoop in the door of washer that mirrors the swoop on the dryer. But if you like mic and match why not.

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Washington, D.C.: Hello Mike. I have a new condo with an ugly spiral staircase. The treads have ugly carpet. Where can I go and get them repaired? Do you have a suggestion of what can be put on it?

Mike McClintock: Repaired i don't know, but a carpet contractor could certainly replace them, though you could also consider wood treads.

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Anonymous: Is there a way to dissipate the smell of new carpet? The bedroom, walk-in closet, and dining/living room were done Monday (just moved in to an apartment). It's now in my clothing (not to mention my head is stuffy). I burn candles at night (but obviously can't in the closet) and thanks to the nice weather, I can keep the balcony door open for a little bit, but I'm only home and awake for about 3 hours a night.

Mike McClintock: More ventilation, with fans, in the window of 40s and 50s now before some storm hits. Try a few of the websites for more info on what causes the problem; think there is a carpet and rug institute.

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Columbia, Md.: I enjoy reading your columns. They are always interesting.

I would like to find primed metal switch plates and outlet covers, so they can be painted to match the surrounding walls. Do you know of any sources?

Mike McClintock: Primed metal i haven't seen; not a bad idea. You may have to do your own version of both coats, and maybe opt for plastic that will be easier to scuff up for better adhesioon. Thanks about the column; interesting is good.

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Bethesda, Md.: Hi! Mike, We live in a 45+ year old split level home. When it rains, water comes in through the door of the walk-out basement. We suspect gradation is the problem. Who should we call to correctly diagnose and correct the situation? What can we do in the short-term to stem the wetness? Thanks!

Mike McClintock: Grading is for yard guys and landscapers who can move dirt. Meantime, caulk the saddle or sill and try to get some wider flashing over the top of the door.

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Arlington, Va.: First-time homeowner here with a painting-related question. I've been painting in my kitchen and for a variety of reason I had to take a break of several weeks between the second and third coats of paint. Now I'm done and I need to remove the blue painter's tape but in some areas it will wind up peeling up the edge of the paint. I've been told to use a utility knife to cut along the tape edge as I remove it. Do you have any advice on technique, or other suggestions for getting the tape off without totally ruining my hard work? Thanks!

Mike McClintock: You might try a hair dryer to loosen the adhesive, but there are often problems when the tape is left in place that long. Don't imagine that the manufacturers expect the paint job to take weeks. But maybve some temperature or humidity change made it stick more than normal.

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Warrenton, Va.: Hi Mike. Thanks for your help in past.
On a house about 60 feet long, how much should the gutter slope to provide adequate drainage? Also, is there some way to minimize the slope over so long a distance? You see that edge of the roof coming up the driveway and I'm afraid almost any slope will look bad.

Mike McClintock: A correctly sloped guttrer can sometimes look like a mistake against the level roof, specially on a long run, becauyse the rule of thumb is to provide about one inch of slope per 10 linear feet- though not many people go that far, guess why? because it looks wrong. A 6-inch drop on your visagble roof edge would certainly be noticeable. But there are two ways to minimize the effect.

First, choose a gutter color that's the same as your facia (normally white) so your eye reads the white band of facia plus gutter and not one slanted and contrasting stripe against another. Second, split the slope in half by installing the high point in the middle and sloping the gutter away in both directions. A slight ridge with only a 3 inch drop to each side will make less, if any, impression. This plan also satuisfies another gutter guideline: to provide a downspout every 35 feet of gutter run. And if one downspout becomes clogged, at least some of the water that backs up can flow out the other end.

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Frederick, Md.: What is the best way to paint base boards without getting paint on the carpet? Tape? Edger? Thanks!

Mike McClintock: If you don't want to unhook the edge (assumning tackless), which sometimes but not always requires a stretcher to get it back in place tightly- whew- best bet is to compress the edge and tape it it. If you press it down just as your painting the strands often rise and catch the wet edge.

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Vienna, Va.: Sorry if you get this question twice -- We own a 2-story condo, and have noisy neighbors on either side. One plays party music, and the other watches TV on surround sound. The dueling noises is driving my wife crazy.

I'm looking into soundproofing materials, which require me to rip out the old drywall, staple the material to the studs, caulk it, then put up new drywall -- something I've never done, but I'm willing to give it a try.

The soundproofing manufacturers make their products sound miraculous. Will all this expense and effort show a noticable difference? And should I do the whole house, or just some key rooms? Will I have problems as an inexperienced handiman with all that drywall?

Mike McClintock: Two questions for two noisy neighbors. So first, how about asking them to turn it the heck down already (but nicely even though i might not when people are just me-first and oblivious). Anyway, think i would shoot the wall full of insulation if it isn;t already, leave the wallboard, then hang a suspension system (horizontal racks) thjat have minimal contact point, then add more insulation and then a top layer of drywall. You'll lose a couple of inches and have to rest trim, so, of course, inexperience may make this hard.
A simpler approach is to add a layer or two of foamboard, and then a new drywall layer. (It's the taping that trips uyp most people.)

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Cheverly, Md.: Good afternoon Mike!
Faucet question for you, from a novice in home repair.
When we use the hot water handle in our bathroom sink, the faucet drips. But if we turn the hot water all the way on, then all the way off (not forcing it), then it usually does not drip.
What's going on in our faucet? And how do we get it to turn off normally?
Thanks!

Mike McClintock: I would replace the washer, and also take out the stem (if it's that type and may be with single controls) to clear any hard water deposirts off the workings. (Wrap a cloth around your wrneches not to scar the finish.)

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Washington, D.C.: Is it hard to remove vinyl flooring? Does it entail just prying up the plywood board that the vinyl flooring is glued to?

Mike McClintock: Removal depends a lot on how the vinyl flor was installed. Many modern floors, for instance, are "floating" installations over thin pads and very easy to pick up. On the other hand, old vinyl was often glued down directly or more often to tar paper laid over subflooring. And even when you get past the glue, the paper may have become one with the wood underneath it.
If you were willing to loose the plywood sheathing in the process it doesn't matter how sticky theinstallation is. But that's kind of severe, and normally something you would do only if the floor had leaks and was delaminating, or you wanted to build up the floor to be solid enough to support ceramic tile.. If the flooring isn't asbestos (old vinyl-asbestos tiles) you can pry away and get an idea of how long it twill take you to do the entire surface.

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Upper Saddle River, N.J.: After many cleanings of my Marble top in the bathroom. The dark colors have bleached out in places. Is there any way to bring back the original colors?

Mike McClintock: Interesting; too much cleaning, huh? Never tried it (or heard of it) so not sure what could leave a purposefully indelible stain in just the right places, but suppose it could be indelible ink over a cleaned dry surface to mimic the marble veins. Goofy.

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Bowie, Md.: What's the best remedy for dealing with green fungus on a section of the roof that doesn't see much sunlight? If I can get close enough, can a blast of bleach/water combo kill it?

Mike McClintock: It will, but may discolor dark shingles in the process, so think about testing a weka solution, then working your way up to stronger stuff. Trimming back some branches helps a lot.

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Bowie, Md.: I have hardwoods on one side of a hardwood transition strip, and carpet on the other side. I want to replace the carpet with hardwoods also. What's the best way to ensure that the new hardwood will line up? Use a laser?

Also, I've heard that it's always better to start work on a floor in the middle of a room. If I'm doing it with hardwoods, does that mean I must nail the first strip perpendicular to the floor to hold it in place?

Mike McClintock: Laser mfgs would love to hear you sya it, but no, install the floor the way it's supposed to go down, usually centered to make equal custom-cut pieces at the borders, and let the transition do what it does: separate the two rooms. But if that transition is front and center by far, you could try to match up the joints and let the odd puieces fall where they may in less seen parts of the room.

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Rockville, Md.: Hi Mike! Happy belated New Year!
We're planning on installing a slate floor sometime this year, and my husband wants it to have a heating component under it. Have you heard of this? Is this easy to do? Is it safe?
Thanks!

Mike McClintock: It may not be fair to sum up, but i recall a This Old House clip where the guts were standing out front because the owner (who had them install a plastic radiant heat sysytem in the floor) wouldn't let them on the property any more he was so fed up.

They worked pretty well (for 50 years plus) in old, heavy, very soild concrete slabs. It's a fabulous heat. But under slate if there's a pinhole it's very hjard to find it, and a lot of floor to muck with in the process.

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Man of steel in Arlington, Va. returns: OK, leaving out the fridge and appliances what about the rest of my ideas. I know I can do the stove and dishwasher for about $1500 - $1800. Let's say the rest is $4K. any suggestions for services? I mainly, can't stand the ugly cabinets.

Mike McClintock: Sounds more doable. Condier resurfacing kits, though there are many companies that provide the service for more bucks. With wood, of course, it's also possible to strip them and stain to whatever color suit you- a lot of work, but that's the free part.

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Columbia, Md.: Hello,
I would like to refinish the wood floors in my small powder room. Would I need a big bulky machine for this or would another piece of equipment suffice?
Thanks!

Mike McClintock: A big sander might buck through the walls, and an edger might leave too many swirls. So think about renting a floor machine designed for cleaning, and use steel wool pads instead of sandpaper, maybe bleach out a bad stain or two, then the same machine for waxing or buffing unless you opt for two coats of poly.

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Mike McClintock: HOME SENSE- BUILDING MATERIALS -QUESTION
Buying a home (new or old) often stretches the budget, and then there are more expenses to come, mainly for decorating, furnishing and other improvements in the first year of ownership.

How much do buyers spend in the first year after buying a new home?
- $12,905
- $8,905
- $4,905

How much do buyers spend in the first year after buying an existing home?
- $9,766
- $6,766
- $3,766
-and the figures don't include yet another expense: moving


HOME SENSE- BUILDING MATERIALS -ANSWER
How much do buyers spend in the first year after buying a new home?
- $8,905
How much do buyers spend in the first year after buying an existing home?
- $3,766

Thanks for the belated happy new years and all; same to you guys and see you next time

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