Home Sense

Mike McClintock (For The Washington Post)

Have questions about how to keep your home fit and trim?

Home Sense columnist Mike McClintock is online every other Thursday at Noon ET to answer your questions about home building, remodeling, repairs and the wide range of home-consumer issues. If it has something to do with the place where you live -- from home security to the latest on appliances, energy-saving and a lot more -- just ask. Mike has the answers.

McClintock's column appears in the Post Home section every Thursday. He is the author of 10 books, including "Alternative Housebuilding."

The transcript follows.

Editor's Note: Washingtonpost.com moderators retain editorial control over Live Online discussions and choose the most relevant questions for guests and hosts; guests and hosts can decline to answer questions.

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Mike McClintock: Hi: posting this week is about sound, or noise, with some background to put all the decibels in perspective- and then, of course, a quiz while i start with your questions.

Noise is subjective. But there is a rating system in decibels (dB): 0dB is the threshold of hearing; 85-90dB the range at which prolonged exposure can cause some hearing damage; 120-130dB the range that causes pain. A jet take off (at about 100 feet) rates 150-155dB and might well rupture your eardrums. Windows break at about 160dB. Confusingly, the decibel system is exponential (or logarithmic), and a 120dB rating is actually 32 times louder than a 70dB rating.

So, with all this in mind, the posting this week provides a list of dB ratings accurately matched to a list of everyday sounds. But there are five extra sound sources, scrambled and without ratings, for you to match with dB ratings on the list. Partial credit (like one sleeve of the home sense tee-shirt) if you at least get them in the right order of loudness.

HOME SENSE- SOUND LEVELS- QUESTION
Using the other, correctly matched sounds below as a guide, can you match these five sounds to five of the different decibel ratings: bird calls, rustling leaves, dishwasher rinse cycle at 10 feet, thunder, a lawn mower.

10dB breathing
20dB a whisper
30dB the level most people need for undisturbed sleep
40dB refrigerator (also the lowest level of urban background sound)
50dB conversation at home
60dB sewing machine
70dB washing machine
80dB garbage disposal
90dB food processor
100dB jet flyover at 1000 feet
110dB car horn at 3-4 feet
120dB chain saw
140dB fireworks
150dB gunshot

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Silver Spring, Md.: Hi Mike,

I recently decided to replace my kitchen sink and faucet. Everything went smoothly except that the old copper pipes did not reach to the new fixture so I replaced them with flexible tubing (labeled "faucet connectors" at the home improvement store). Since I replaced the faucet, I've noticed an odor in the water that dissipates after I run the water for 5-10 seconds. I'm wondering if something is leeching into the water or if I used the wrong connectors. Is this something that will go away? Thanks for your help.

Mike McClintock: If the water was fine before, it's likely something you used in connections and should dissipate rapidly.

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Rockville, Md.: I removed the carpet from my stairs to have the hardwood steps refinished. The risers are painted with several coats of lead-based paint (I tested it.) Instead of patching the carpet staple holes and chipped paint, I would just like to primer over it to seal it and then install something to cover the risers. Someone suggested 1/4" AC plywood or formica laminate. Does that sounds right? Any other options?

Mike McClintock: That sounds reasonable, limit being not to reduce the tread depth to the point where the stairs are difficult to walk on, so maybe a laminate would be best if you don't have room, though it can be tricky to cut, and on an older stairs the risers may not be exactly uniform. 1/4-inch ply would be easier to work if you have the room (and you probably do). Only other option that dawns on me is buying a door skin (a big sheet of veneer) and glueing on just the veneer surface of a wood species that will fit in with the tread material.

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Altoona, Pa.: Hi,
Our stairs need to be sanded and refinished, which means unpleasant fumes for days and no way to get up to the home office, clothing, and bed, not to mention having to keep the cat (a strictly indoor cat) from getting involved. Or do you have some suggestions to make this a quick and fumeless job? Thanks for your help.

Mike McClintock: Sand them all, then refinish every other one in a two-step project, though you may have to come up with something more confining for the cvat who may not understand the system.

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Philadelphia, Pa.: Hi Mike,

The cabinets in my kitchen are solid wood, but very dark stained. The previous owners painted the outsides a hideous putty color without stripping the old finish. The paint is already starting to peel and chip and we've only been in our home a year. I want to repaint the cabinets, but I don't know how to strip the vertical surfaces. Is this more of a pain than it's worth?

Mike McClintock: Sounds like yuo don't have much choice, though it'ws a lot easier if you take off the door and work on them flat. Suppose you could redo the doors and if the carcass that shows proves difficult, just do a light sanding and paint again. Sometimes there is some decent looking wood under there.

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Riverdale, Md.: Hello... thanks for answering my question. We just bought a 1911 wodd frame craftsman-style home with significant settlement around door frames, railings, stairs, etc. My handy-man extraordinaire husband insists it's just "cosmetic," but the attic staircase is at such a slant that it's almost alarming, and a beam in the basement ceiling that is right under the base of the living room stairs, has partially separated from the beam running perpendicular to it, where they were "notched" together (wish I could draw you a picture). I keep thinking the living room stairs will collapse into the basement one day. My question is, exactly what is going on under there and how do you know what's holding up what and when there's a structural problem as a result of this settlement? Thanks in advance...

Mike McClintock: A lot can happen in a building since 1911, but they rarely just let go. The kind of settlement you describe certainly isn't cosmetic (though that's a pretty good cop out) but the main thing is if things are still moving. I'd guess not, but you can take some precise measurements, put tracing paper over some joints to track any movement and things like that and then just watch for a while. If the building is moving after all this time you will need some help and some work done.

And someday (who knows when, maybe 5 years?) i bet that most of this computer stuff will include picture capability (and maybe no more typing, just talking) and that could be cool because i used to do a drawing every week in the paper with a Q+A and it probably would help on many questions to do a sketch.

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Rockville, Md.: Hi Mike,
I read your article on grills so I hope this question is ok for this forum. I want to replace my charcoal grill and am considering either the std. Weber kettle and a smoker (the type I'm considering has a smaller barrel-shaped firebox and the heat and smoke flow into a bigger barrel shaped section that has the food).

I think the smoker provdes more flexibility because it appears to offer direct heat cooking in either the small section or the bigger section as well as offering a better smoking setup than the kettle.

What do you think? Also, anything I should look for in these smokers? The only one I tend to see is made by New Braunfels.

Thanks for your help.

washingtonpost.com: Grill Power Sweeps the Nation (Post, April 22)

Mike McClintock: Think many manufacturers make smokers, maybe not exactly as you describe but came idea. Best BBQ u ever concocted was a smoker, just a big barrel shaped container with a hood and lots of little hangers where you could hang racks. In order from the bottom up, what worked was a catch pan for ashes, then a place for charcoal, then a pan of water, then several more racks for food; produced sausages about twice the size before smoking and delecto

With any of these units, somewhat heaveir metal will last longer.

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Charlottesville, Va.: We have 6-year old 3/4in oak hardwood floors throughout our house. They are in good shape overall, and I clean them weekly with Murphy's Oil Soap. However, in the high traffic areas there is dirt that I can't seem to get out, and overall they are starting to look a bit dingy. It doesn't seem like they need to be completely refinished, but I am wondering if there is something in between refinishing and weekly cleaning that can be done to make them look better. TIA!

Mike McClintock: Extra wear in traffic areas is a common problem, and a little risky to fix. But, you can do a light sanding in those tracks, then (in extreme cases of stains and such) bleach the wood and then add stain to bring it back to match the adjacent wood. Chanves are with all that care, however, that a sanding will do, and then you can start with paste wax to blend in the surface finish. (Trying to poly just one lane usually doesn't work well and leaves edges.)

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Bowie, Md.: Do you believe in drylocking or sealing basement floors even if the basement is unfinished and there is no clear indication of any water intrusion?

Mike McClintock: It would be low on the list, but will help to keep down dust- and probably make the floor look a little better.

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Capitol Heights, Md.: Good Morning Mike!; My question has to do with a huge 30 foot tree sitting in the middle of our backyard. My husband wants that tree cut down. Do you know how much something like that would cost us? Also, I asked my husband to dig up the whole backyard in order to grow grass, and not put seeds in only the bald spots, and he said something about clay being in the yard. What does that mean?

Mike McClintock: Uh oh; you'rer asking me what he meant instead of asking him what he meant. And 30-foot doesn't sound huge to me; more like a tree that would be easy to lose if you wanted to lose it, i.e. you (or he) could do it. About the reseeding: that's a loit of digging just for some bald spots, unbless you're after a yard that's perfect for croquet. I reseed spots, mainly after the plow guy goes crazy and plow sod instead of snow, and the only drawback is that the lawn later on has some very verdant patches from the prepr work (i've porobably improved the soil too much), and also the grass from different seed l;ooks a littyle different, but if you cut more often it will just be pretty much green.

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Build-out in Bethesda, Md.: Mike
We're neighbors to people who just started a build-out. Not once did these people say a word to us before they began what is turning out to be a very big and disruptive project. Please urge your readers to show a bit of courtesy to their neighbors when they begin these projects, as they represent a major infringement on the quality of life of those affected by them. What goes around, comes around.

Mike McClintock: It happens, and unless they needed a variance, say, because the addition infringed on a code controlling side yard minimums, they don't have to say anything. If they did need a variance, most localities make the people post notices and there is a hearing where complaints can be registered. Yes, it would have been better, just basic politeness, to say sorry, there will be trucks and saws and all, and we'll do what we can, so feel free to glare at them atr least.

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Syracuse, N.Y.: Hi Mike,

I have two adjacent upstairs bathrooms; one with an overhead exhaust fan, and one without (it has a window instead). I would like to install a fan in the bathroom that only has a window, since I don't believe a window is very practical when the temperature is 0? outside (which it can get to in a typical Syracuse winter).

The bathroom with an existing fan has exhaust ducting that leads to the outdoors. When installing the new fan, is it (a) feasible and (b) within code to tap into this existing ducting, or must a dedicated duct with a dedicated vent be used?

Thanks...

Mike McClintock: The most efficient (and most quiet) new fan systems do just that, but they use one motor mounted up in the attic to pull air through several ducts. You could have some condensation problems i suppose, so it's alwasy wise to insulate the lines and also to raise them immediately so they slope slightly down to the vent just in case you get some dripping; better outside than inside.

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Washington, D.C.: Hi! I was doing some iron-ons on the kitchen table (don't ask!) and the Mexican placemat was underneath the shirt and pillowcase. Some of the dye from the placemats was transferred to the top of the light colored wood table. Any way to remove this without refinishing the whole table? Thanks!

Mike McClintock: So how much does an ironing board cost?
Anyway, if standard cleaners won't do it, you could try something more radical like sanding and spot refinishing, and if the dye got through everytyhing bleach the wood to neutral and stain before refinishing. If the table isn't too big, sometimes you might as well go ahead and refinish the entire top- sort of turn the mistake into a positive project instead of a repair.

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Gainesville, Va.: Hi Mike. Your info on noise particularly caught my eye. We've just recently moved into an end unit townhouse. In conversations with our neighbors, we learned that the common wall between the two homes is thin, and that they could hear the previous owners big screen tv and surround sound system throughout every level of thier house. Can you recommend some kind of insulation that we could put behind our entertainment unit to prevent this? We only have a normal TV of 27" but have plans to add stereo later. Thanks for your help!

Mike McClintock: Sound tends to be like water in that it will find it's way through the wall if not the floor or ceiling. To control sound where it's made (the most practical approach you're already onto) best bet would be to put the unit in a cabinet big enough to be lined with insulation. But you would need vent holes. I've found that bass sounds are the worst, and sometimes that's all you hear (no melody even if you might like the tune) and it's maddening.

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Waldorf, Md.: Our house is on a well system, and I notice that the water pressure isn't nearly as high as it was when we lived in a house on city water. Is there a way to adjust the pressure from the pump to increase the inside water pressure?

Mike McClintock: Almost always you can crack up the pressure, but the pump will work more to beat the extra resistance in the holding tank. Usually the idea is to find a compromise setting (oftebn lower than municpal pressure) and live with less flow.

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Washington, D.C.: Mike,
A previous owner had a A/C unit installed in a window. The unit was removed since the house now has central air, but the window does not close. Its an old window (opens and closes vertically) that I suspect has been painted and just hasn't moved in so many years that its stuck. Any tricks for getting it to work again?

Mike McClintock: Something like a razor cutter to break the years of paint bonds over the seams. Worst case is you have to pull the stop, but if you keep cutting through the paint most painted-in windows eventually break free.

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Herndon, Va.: A "whistling" sound has started in our water pipes. It seems to be located in the basement, where the main water piper comes in and the "feeders" branch off, and not associated with any one sink, toilet, whatever. Seems to make no difference whether we're running hot only, cold only, or both, or flushing any of the toilets -- the same sound. How big a problem can this be?

Mike McClintock: Whistling might be squeaking sound as the pipes move against framing, but you probably need to spend some time down there in case it's coming from a holding tank, water heater. Some electric units make sort of a wheezing sound as they heat water, which would happen randomly, i.e. nopt necessarily wqhen you use water.

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Arlington, Va.: Good afternoon! We are looking at replacing the original wood windows on our 1948 Arlington house. We are leaning toward vinyl, because of the cost and maintenance benefits. But we are still fascinated by the $23k estimate we got from Pella for 11 windows. Is any window really good enough to justify over $2,000 a pop? Is it worth the investment over time? If we go with wood windows I don't think we'd go with Pella just because I couldn't stand giving that much money to what amounted to a used car salesman. What are other reputable wood window dealers?

Mike McClintock: Pella will sure be happy about this question, but it does seem high. You try to negotiate? Sometimes estimators take a flyer just to see if you say yes without a question. And selling windows in buildings (at resale) is a little bit like selling the idea that planes have wings. You can get decent double-glazing, even low-e DG in vinyl and wood cheaper than that quote, and those are the factors that save energy and cut your monthly bills- and sound just fine at resale. Trick is to have a salesperson show you with sampl trim, inside and out, exactly how the units will go in and be trimmed, and if they will be downsized substantially to fit in the old openings.

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Dupont, Washington, D.C.: We recently bought a home in Dupont and are thinking of donating a conservation easement through the L'enfent Trust. What do you know about such easements? Do they make a house in such a desireable area less valuable/less liveable? Thanks

Mike McClintock: Not less liavble unless the easement includes park space or playgounds or somthing like that. The idea does mainly benfit you, the current owner, because you get the tax breaks (and probably less maintenance), but can (it's iffy) limit the reslae market. Though if it's just open space. most people appreciate having it without having top pay for it. Just go carefully.

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Washington, D.C.: Our new home has lots of old features, like a cast iron tub in great condition, and hand-blown glass panes. We want to modernize. Should we just throw this stuff out or is there someone who will pay us for it that you know of? Thanks for taking my question.

Mike McClintock: A lot fo people would practically kill for old, heavy-duty fixtures and details in good shape. Sure, you could make a deal with a salvage company, or just a contractor, but moderning around and in harmony with solid, working, older stuff is something you should consider.

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Arlington, Va: Having trouble with our AC. It is at least 7-10 degrees warmer on our second floor as opposed to first floor, imparticular our master bedroom is warmer than all the other bedrooms. We have closed the vents in these bedrooms and closed the doors to force the air through our master bedroom but still is exteremly hot in the room. In fact, the other rooms are still cooler.

We bought the house about 1 year ago and did not have trouble during last year's summer and the AC unit was certified as only a couple of years old.

Any thoughts?

Mike McClintock: Sometimes it's something wacky like a tree growing to shade one area but not another, or losing a tyree that used to shade a roof. Maybe start in the attic, add insulation, make sure vents are free- and if all else fails look into an improvement called zoning (in a recent column) Nutshell is a motorized damper at a key location deflects air from one are to another, based on its' own thermostat setting.

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Well Water follow up: Thanks for the response. So if I were to crank up the pressure just a bit, would I find that knob on the holding tank in the house, or would I have to hunt around the yard for the well itself? And is this something is could/should do, or is the help of a plumber in order here?

Mike McClintock: You need a plumber, and it's usually in the well pit with a dial nearby that registers the pressure.

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Do-it-yourselfer on a tight budget: I just wanted to share that those who plan to tackle large home improvement projects should use the Internet as a source for price comparison, purchasing. Research takes time and energy, but the savings are rewarding. I have saved thousands by purchasing either from the internet or directly from the source. For instance, my kitchen island is from Rhode Island; hardwood from upstate New York; washer/dryer from Louisiana; glulam beams from Delaware; maple door from Connecticut; flooring from Richmond; hardware from California, benches from Oregon... the list goes on.

Mike McClintock: Only drawback is that you can't see in person, like in a kitchen or bath showroom. But you can cheat, use the showrooms for hands on, then price on the internet.

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Hyattsville, Md.: Hi Mike! Love the chats. I am having a problem concerning a retaining wall. A section of the wall has fallen out, and I am concerned that with the heavy rain and wind we have had, the rest will go soon. As a result my neighbor's trees along with his yard will fall too! The problem is that the wall is on the property line according to our survey, so I am not sure who is responsible for it. The wall turns into his yard at least 4 feet, and as I mentioned, it is hold up his property. Any ideas on where I can get a answer to whom the wall belongs to? Thanks!

Mike McClintock: As a practical, neighborly matter, it belongs to bnoth of you, though a survey would make it clear. But if a fix is quite obviously to the neighbor's benefit, maybe even more so than yours, i'd assume a joint venture and make a joint plan.

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Washington, D.C.: My dining room has 3 walls with a chair rail, the 4th wall is empty for reasons unclear. How difficult is it to add a 9-ft chair rail?(assuming I can find a similar pattern) The current rails are flush against the empty wall. Would I just need to carefully cut a 45 degree angle into the existing chair rail at the corner and nail the missing piece in place? Any advice in general? Thanks!

Mike McClintock: Maybe a picture would be nice to fill the blank. But if you want to wrap chair rail you have top cope the joints, basically cut a 45 plus the profile of the rail inthe edge of the abutting piece. It's hard to get right the first time, and often the tenth time, so consider cutting back the other rail, and adding some kind of corner block that fits it- so you can just make square cuts and butt the ends into the blocks.

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Mike! --Thanks for your answer. What are the alternatives to wood frames in the windows outside a house?

Mike McClintock: Cladding on the outside is one of the extras that can save a lot of scraping and painting through the years.

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Wheaton, Md.: When I flush the toilet located in the upstairs level of my house, it makes a sound like I'm flushing a handful of coins down the tube. Any ideas as to what that sound might be? (no children in the house, so coins ACTUALLY being flushed not the case) Thanks much.

Mike McClintock: Coins would be good; i once had to pull a few plastic guys out (after demounting the toilet) , think one was a soldier and maybe the other was Spidey. But probably it's loose fittings inside that move and rattle when the water moves, and you could just tighten them up- or replace if necessary.

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Bowie, Md.: I have the Charbroil/New Braunfels silver smoker, and it works great except for one thing. It's very hard to control the heat as it was not designed correctly. Many people have had this problem, and as a result, there are tons of hints/tips on how to modify the smoker to make the heat more even. I would recommend it over gas, as nothing beats grilling with charcoal.

Mike McClintock: Yes in all respects. I found that at some point the water would create a huge infusion of smoke, and after that it was soon time to eat. They can be finicky.

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McLean, Va.: We are contemplating moving into a neighborhood where the homes are all 75-100 years old. Having never lived in an older home, I'm looking for resources that can help us deal with issues like lead paint, lead water lines, asbestos tile, etc. Suggestions?

Mike McClintock: HUD, the EPA have huge websites and a lot of info about these subjects. You could start there, then add some of the magazines that cover older houses.

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Rockville, Md.: I need to replace the handrail and accompanying hardware in my townhouse. The "big box" stores don't offer much in the way of variety. Can you recommend somewhere with a bigger selection?

Mike McClintock: A supply house that makes stairs, mainly for contractors, could probably set you up.

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Toilet Troubles, USA: Hi Mike,
Thanks for hosting this discussion -- it's a great resource! I'm having trouble with that floaty thing in the toilet tank (to use a highly technical term...) When the tank refills after flushing, this aparatus is supposed to rise with the water. It does, to some degree, but doesn't rise the last inch or so, even when the water level is full. Thus, the toilet continues to run. Does it sound like the floaty thing needs to be replaced, or could the problem be something else? BTW, I recently replaced the flapper to prevent the toilet from running. Prior to that, the toilet would run until I ran one of the faucets in the bathroom. I just assumed that the flapper was causing the problem, but since I didn't open the tank to observe, it could have been the floaty thing all along. Of course, now, running a faucet does not prevent the running.

Mike McClintock: On that older type, just bend down the arm supporting the float ball an inch or more- just enough so when the ball rises it closes the float switch and stops the water; it's about the easiest (and cheapest) of all home repairs.

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Fairfax, Va.: Re: refinishing or spiffing up part of a floor. Our refinisher told us NEVER to use paste wax, because then you HAVE TO completely remove old finish to re-do. If you haven't used wax, often they can use a scrubby-like pad on sander and partially re-do a small area that will blend in.

Mike McClintock: Before poly, all floors were always all paste wax, and one of the big floor trade associations recommends waxing over poly for extra protection (i wouldn't due to the extra maintenance). But on a spot or lane repair it's really hard to blend in new poly, and wax works pretty well.

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Washington, D.C.: In an unfinished basement, what's the best way to "seal out" the insulation so that the particles don't get into the air and the smell of the insulation isn't as bad?

Mike McClintock: You could finish with drywall, of course, or just tack up a plastic vapor barrier.

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Takoma, Washington, D.C. for 1911 craftman: Check for old termite damage -- we had a bean that was just a shell. Hope not but better fix sooner than later

Mike McClintock: Could be, but even then most houses still hold together

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Mike McClintock: HOME SENSE- SOUND LEVELS- QUESTION
Using the other, correctly matched sounds below as a guide, can you match these five sounds to five of the different decibel ratings: bird calls, rustling leaves, dishwasher rinse cycle at 10 feet, thunder, a lawn mower.

10dB breathing
20dB a whisper
30dB the level most people need for undisturbed sleep
40dB refrigerator (also the lowest level of urban background sound)
50dB conversation at home
60dB sewing machine
70dB washing machine
80dB garbage disposal
90dB food processor
100dB jet flyover at 1000 feet
110dB car horn at 3-4 feet
120dB chain saw
140dB fireworks
150dB gunshot


HOME SENSE- SOUND LEVELS- ANSWER
20dB- rustling leaves
40dB- bird calls
60dB- dishwasher rinse cycle at 10 feet
90dB- lawn mower
120dB- thunder

Sources for ratings are (and their dB ratings vary some):
Department of City Planning, City of Los Angeles, Electrolux, and Temple University Department of Civil/Environmental Engineering

The term decibel comes from a "Bel", named for Alexander Graham Bell, and originally used to measure acoustic power ratios in telephone systems. The decibel is 1/10 of a Bel, and commonly used to express everyday sound levels.

It may seem that the 10dB increments of the examples are too closely spaced to distinguish much if any difference. But many people can detect a change of only one dB, which in engineering parlance goes by an interestingly non-jargon, non-technical term called the JND, or Just Noticeable Difference.

See you next time

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