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Digging In: Scott Aker

On Growing Melons, Not Mush

By Scott Aker
Special to The Washington Post
Thursday, December 2, 2004; Page H07

Q This year, our cantaloupes were surprisingly early and robust. When we picked them, the first melon literally exploded. The melon flesh was orange but mushy. The same problem happened to other melons. Later in the season, the harvest was fine. Was this related to our wet year?

A I suspect the cantaloupes suffered from a fungal or bacterial infection that started where the fruit was lying on the ground.

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Commercial growers raise melons on sandy soil mulched with black plastic; irrigation is supplied by drip tubes that are under the plastic. With these measures, the fruit never touches the ground, and there is little chance that Southern blight, bacterial soft rot or other diseases can liquefy the fruit.

At home, you can use a mat of clean straw under the fruits to protect them from damage. Cantaloupes develop their best flavor if they are well watered when the vines are growing and the fruit swelling, followed by dry conditions during ripening. Next year, water sparingly, if at all, late in the season.

Two of my eastern white pines were killed by insect borers. How do I protect the remaining ones in my yard? Should I remove the dead ones? Also, what shade trees do you recommend as a replacement?

Most borers search out weakened trees. If your other pines are healthy, they should be all right. Many factors may weaken white pines. They dislike heavy soil, particularly if drainage is poor. In the past two years, we have had excessive rainfall and white pines have suffered in areas where drainage is marginal. This is worsened if they are next to an impervious surface, such as a roadway.

Improper pruning, such as topping, may also stress white pines to the point of vulnerability to borers, as can prolonged drought, soil compaction, herbicide injury, bagworms, or salt spray.

If you want to replace the trees with something that is evergreen that will cast some shade, you might try Southern magnolia, deodar cedar, or blue atlas cedar. All three do well in our climate, and are more adaptable than white pine to heavy soil.

I planted two white lilac bushes in my yard three years ago. They were blooming when they were planted but haven't done so since. I have been told they need more sunlight -- they get about four hours now. What is the problem and how do I get them to bloom?

Four hours of sunlight isn't enough for your lilacs to produce flowers. Move them to a sunnier location, preferably one that is sunny all day long. Fertilizer won't help if sunlight is inadequate.

If you want something fragrant that will tolerate a bit of shade, consider planting a fragrant, spring-blooming viburnum. Mohawk is a nicely shaped shrub that will bloom at about the same time as the lilac would, and you won't have problems with powdery mildew late in the season as you do with the lilac. Mohawk also has stunning fall color.

Scott Aker is a horticulturist at the U.S. National Arboretum.

Have a question about gardening? Write Digging In, Home Section, The Washington Post, 1150 15th St. NW, Washington, D.C. 20071; fax 202-334-5059 or e-mail home@washpost.com.


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