Long before anyone paid attention to Australia or South America, Italy was the reigning king of good cheap wine. Most Italian restaurants dispensed vat loads of Chianti by the carafe, and Bardolino or Valpolicella by the bottle for big spenders. In the supermarkets and wine shops, the Italian aisle was chock-full of straw-wrapped bottles called fiascos, which everyone loved because they made great candleholders.
Then came the Great Wine Awakening about 15 years ago. Italian vintners, particularly those in Tuscany and Piedmont, realized that they were sitting on some of the world's greatest terroirs -- soils and microclimates -- and that it made no sense to go on making plonk. International markets wanted great wines and were willing to pay for them.
Italy responded with breathtaking Barolos, Barbaresco, Tuscan proprietary blends and Chianti Riservas, many of them two or three times the price of their uninspired predecessors.
Unfortunately, not everyone could afford these new wines, wondrous as they were. With few good wines available from these traditional producing regions at affordable prices, consumers had no choice but to look to upcoming areas such as Australia, South America and parts of California. While they found some good wines, they did not find the bright, spicy flavor of the Italian wines they loved. For that, they would have to wait.
Happily, the wait is over. Led by southern Italy but joined more recently by Tuscany, Italy is offering an impressive number of tasty wines from less well-known regions for under $15. The following wines are my pick of the crop from a tasting of more than 75 wines in this competitive category. While the wines are listed in order of my preference, I'd recommend bringing home an assortment, for the simple reason that it's great fun to taste the wonderfully varied styles of Italy's regional wines. Prices are approximate.
La Corte 2003 "Solyss" Negroamaro ($15): If you regret missing out on winemaker Chris Ringland's "perfect" Three Rivers Shiraz from Australia (100 points from critic Robert Parker; $300), this modestly priced blockbuster may mollify you. Made by Ringland in the Puglia region of southern Italy, where he works off-season as a consulting winemaker, it has a rich, extroverted style. Deep scarlet in color with spicy aromas, this wine has layers of dense red berry fruit highlighted by the unique rhubarb notes of the native Negroamaro grape (Winebow, 202-835-3061).
Bliss 2003 Maremma Toscana (Yellow Label) ($14): Maremma is perplexing in a wonderful way, producing $15 wines right beside $50 wines. This refined Sangiovese is impressively silky on the palate, highlighted by a subtle bouquet of ripe plum and violets (Dionysos Imports, 703-550-2250).
Masciarelli 2001 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo ($8 for 750 ml, $14 in magnum): The deep cherry flavors of this wine are simply delicious, and the silky feel on the palate belies its inexpensive price. For connoisseurs on a budget, this is a must (Constantine, 410-992-1400).
Castello Banfi 2003 Chianti Classico ($13): Reminiscent of the stylish Brunello ($75) produced by Castello Banfi in nearby Montalcino, this harmonious Chianti offers a splendid nose of black raspberries intermingled with oak, earth and cassis, with excellent weight and supple layers of fruit on the palate (NDC, 202-388-8207).
Gini 1998 Toscana "Oak-aged" ($12): A dead ringer for $20-plus Chianti Classico Riserva, this wine offers a full violet and berry bouquet, soft Sangiovese varietal flavor on the palate and a rare opportunity to sample the mellow notes of maturity at an affordable price (Constantine).
Cantina Vignaioli Astibarbera 2003 Barbera d'Asti "Claudius" ($13); Prunotto 2003 Barbera d'Asti "Fiulot" ($13); Cantine Sant'Agata 2001 Barbera D'Asti Superiore "Altea" ($12): These three Barberas show the vibrant fruitiness that makes Piemontese wines so special. The youthful 2003 Fiulot and the slightly less strapping Claudius offer pretty aromas of raspberry, nutmeg and vanilla, followed through on the palate by juicy flavors of cassis and black raspberry. The mellower 2001 Altea is nicely sweetened by oak aging, with medium-bodied, plummy fruit and a clean, pliant finish. (For information on Claudius, call Dionysos Imports; for Fiulot, call Winebow); for Altea, call Siema, 703-455-1200).
Taurino Salice Salentino Rosso 2000 ($12): This vintage of Taurino Salice Salentino is the best I've had in years, with the trademark spicy fruit and exotic bouquet that have kept this southern Italian red on the best-buy list for more than a decade (Winebow).
La Carraia 2003 Sangiovese "Umbria" ($11): By using less costly Sangiovese grapes from outside the Chianti zone, superstar winemaker Riccardo Cotarella has fashioned a wine similar to a full-bodied Chianti Riserva, but considerably more affordable. This offering has ripe flavors of strawberry and toasted oak, meaty tannins and full finish (Winebow).
Memo 2003 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo ($10); Memo 2003 Sangiovese ($10): Both of these wines are big, clean and packed with jammy fruit. The hearty Montepulciano emphasizes blackberry flavors and a hint of fig, while the Sangiovese goes more toward Chianti-like dried cherry and red plum flavors (Bacchus, 410-633-0400).
Poggio Le Volpi Cesanese Del Piglio DOC 2002 ($11): What this wine lacks in finesse it more than makes up for in big meaty fruit. Made in Lazio from the indigenous Cesanese grape, blended with 10 percent Barbera and 10 percent Montepulciano, this has very original style (Siema).
Falesco Vitiano 2003 ($11): A great value that can be quaffed uncritically or readily paired with southern Italian cuisine such as lasagna or veal parmigiana, this strapping blend of 33 percent Merlot, 33 percent Cabernet and 34 percent Sangiovese delivers a lot of flavor at a modest price (Winebow).
Castello di Fonterutoli Badiola 2002 ($14): Badiola is the entry-level wine of the highly regarded Castello di Fonterutoli in Tuscany, best known for its proprietary Merlot and Sangiovese blend called Siepi ($100). Although the 2002 Badiola is a bit austere on the palate, the gorgeous bouquet of blueberries, vanilla and espresso bears a distinct resemblance to that of Siepi. Decant one hour before serving (to soften the palate), and enjoy with Tuscan grill, lamb or red meat (Washington Wholesale, 202-832-5600).
Castello Banfi Centine 2002 ($12): Firmly structured in the manner of a French claret but with a core of juicy, Tuscan fruit, this smooth blend of 60 percent Sangiovese, 20 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 20 percent Merlot is delicious as an aperitif red and has the requisite complexity to pair with grilled or roasted red and white meats (NDC).
Promessa Rosso Salento 2003 ($9) Enjoy this chewy, robust varietal blend of 85 percent Negroamaro and 15 percent Primitivo grown in the Salento peninsula with pasta, pizza, Italian sausage and red meats (Empson U.S.A., 703-684-0900).
Tiziano 2001 Chianti Classico "Gold" ($15): This fragrant, medium-bodied Chianti is well done and will pair well with pasta, pizza and red meat (Washington Wholesale).
