Today Eton is one of the country's most exclusive schools, famous in recent years for educating princes William and Harry. A tour includes cloisters, a medieval chapel and the rather self-congratulatory Museum of Eton Life, which reminds you just how many famous men were educated there (18 prime ministers, for a start).
As I wandered the grounds, scholars in the amazing school uniform of black tailcoat with waistcoat and white tie hurried past, looking like something from another century. It was hard to believe that they were the same age as the boys I'd seen just a mile away in Slough station.
On the way to Salisbury, stop by Stonehenge, the Neolithic monument whose origins remain a mystery.
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_____News from Britain_____
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Paper: Blair Was Warned About Chaos in Iraq (The Washington Post, Sep 19, 2004)
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N. Ireland Talks End In Deadlock (The Washington Post, Sep 19, 2004)
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Zombies & Pub Life, on Tap in 'Shaun' (The Washington Post, Sep 19, 2004)
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Paris Auto Show Changes to Reflect Market (The Washington Post, Sep 19, 2004)
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2 Americans, Briton Seized By Gunmen In Baghdad (The Washington Post, Sep 17, 2004)
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If you're traveling with children on vacation they'll be sure to spot all the signs to Legoland Windsor, a theme park dedicated to the colorful building blocks. Although it's a theme park, Legoland (closed until March 29) does endeavor to offer educational value, and in addition to the rides, there are interactive workshops and building challenges. A regular bus runs from outside the Parish Church or Theatre Royal in Windsor Town Centre to Legoland during the day.
Much of the food in Windsor's town center is mediocre, but if you have a car you can get to some of the best food in the greater London area. Try lunch at the Riverside Brasserie in the Bray Marina, off the A308 on the way to Windsor. It was opened by award-winning chef Heston Blumenthal as a lower-cost alternative to his Michelin two-star French restaurant the Fat Duck (nearby on Bray Village High Street), and it attracts a steady stream of diners from London. The menu at the Brasserie includes dishes that made Blumenthal famous at the Fat Duck, but at comparatively bargain prices.
Directions: Windsor is 25 miles west of London, about a 40-minute drive. By car, take the M4 Junction 6. By train, it's 32 minutes from London Paddington to Windsor & Eton Central (change at Slough), 51 minutes from London Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Riverside. Train fare is about $9 for a Cheap Day Return.
Attractions: Windsor Castle, telephone 011-44-20-7321-2233, www.royal.gov.uk/output/Page557.asp, admission about $18 ($10 when State Apartments are closed). Eton College, 011- 44-1753-671177, www.etoncollege.com, admission $6. Legoland Windsor (011-44-8705-040404, www.lego.com/eng/legoland/windsor, admission $37 for adults, $32 for children. Information: www.windsor.gov.uk.
Restaurants: Fat Duck, 1 High St., Bray, www.fatduck.co.uk; dinner about $95 per person, lunch from $48. Riverside Brasserie, Bray Marina, Bray; dinner about $48.
Oxford
After London, Oxford is my favorite British city. When friends visit, I encourage them to take a day away from the capital to wander among Oxford's towering spires or try their hand at punting on the River Cherwell. The journey is easy by train or bus, and even in the dullest weather (of which there's plenty), Oxford's medieval architecture, gentle rivers and green open spaces never fail to uplift.
Oxford University is made up of a central university and 39 colleges, a structure that can be somewhat confusing if you're familiar with centralized U.S. universities. The central university administration regulates academic life and awards degrees, while students live, dine and attend tutorials in their colleges.
Each college has its own character and architectural style, ranging from medieval to modern. Visitor policies vary. I started at Corpus Christi, where a friendly porter let me in without charge. Corpus is the smallest college in terms of undergraduates, and very beautiful. It sits against the old city wall, and there are views from the wall down to the river and across Christ Church's gardens.
