My Big Fat Greek Islands

And yet, as the public bus carried us across the island to the capital, we took in one stunning vista after another. Imposing tree-covered cliffs descended dramatically toward the craggy coastline. Sweeps of yellow and violet flowers blanketed meadows in every direction.

Andros "is one of the gems of Greece," said Rosita, a local woman whom we met on the bus. "And yet except for Athenians with weekend homes here, not many visitors come." An Ecuadorean who had fallen for a local seaman, she had made her home here for three decades. Making friends had been tough at first, she said.

But the locals we encountered during our two-day stay displayed a gusto for life and an eagerness to talk. Nicole, a pretty Belgian, greeted us at our Andros City hotel with warmth and a glass of ouzo. That evening, on her recommendation, we made our way through the maze of pastel-colored houses and down a winding flight of stairs to an intimate family-run restaurant called Nona. Fotis, the owner's son, brought us a platter of crisp fried calamari and a big Greek salad and spent the rest of the evening giving us sightseeing tips. As we walked back to the hotel, listening to the wind hum through the empty streets, we felt as if we had the island all to ourselves.

The next morning, Rosita arrived at our hotel with a gift of freshly made olive oil and a suggestion that her friend Eleftherios give us an island tour. An hour later the burly, warmhearted taxi driver showed up. A poet by night, he brought copies of two small books of verse he had written and offered them as gifts.

Eleftherios led us down to the sea, where the ruins of a fortress date back to the early 1200s. Just off the coast was a half-fallen tower, part of a fortress built by Venetian warriors who settled here more than eight centuries ago. Covered with moss, it was a lovely sight.

On a mountainside to the east was Stenies, a village of charming homes built in the 19th century for the families of sailors, who traditionally spend as much as nine months of the year away. We took a walk, admiring the clusters of mansions and inhaling the scents of jasmine and citrus. Wealthy Athenians, Eleftherios said, were slowly buying up the mansions as weekend homes.

At Korthi, a seaside village with a lovely long beach, a schoolhouse and a few cafes, the laughter of scattered sunbathers and children walking home from school rang out in the otherwise quiet afternoon. Later we drove through Batsi, a small resort town whose cluster of brightly colored hotels make it the preferred locale for Brits and other foreigners who spend their summer holidays in Andros.

As Eleftherios headed toward Gavrio, where we would catch the ferry back to Athens, I began to wish I'd had a week or even another day to spend on Andros. The landscape had more natural drama than any I had seen so far. The locals had dignity and a quiet appeal. But our week was coming to an end.

During the three-hour ferry ride back to the mainland, I thought about the islands we'd visited. Each had captured the essence of Greece in a different way. Naxos offered captivating ruins and memorable cuisine. The enclave of Hermoupolis on Siros was one of the finest examples of urban elegance this side of Rome. Tinos had provided serenity and spiritual stimulation. Andros featured verdant hillsides and grand vistas.

Perhaps none of them was perfect. But as the shoreline of Andros faded into the distance and the evening tides of the Aegean began to rise, this wild and undiscovered setting seemed about as close to perfection as a place can get.

DETAILS: The Cyclades

GETTING THERE: Delta is offering round-trip tickets from Reagan National to Athens via New York for $604, with restrictions. British Airways and other carriers fly from Dulles via London or other European capitals at similar rates. Fares start edging up in March, however, and peak at about $1,200 mid-summer.

Ferries to the Cyclades leave several times daily from the ports of Rafina and Piraeus, both of which are within easy reach of Athens by public bus or taxi. Ferry tickets range from $6 to $30, depending on the carrier, destination and class of service. For schedules and booking on Blue Star ferries: www.bluestarferries.com. For other companies, check Greek Travel Pages, www.gtpweb.com.

WHEN TO GO: The best times to visit are early fall or late spring, when the weather is excellent -- not too hot, not too cold -- and the crowds thin out.

ANDROS