My Big Fat Greek Islands

WHERE TO STAY: The Paradise Hotel (Andros City, 011-30-22820-22187), a 10-minute walk from a lovely beach, has stylishly furnished rooms and a lovely view of town. It is closed from mid-October to March 1. Doubles, with a full buffet breakfast, go for about $79 in the shoulder seasons, $99 in summer.

The Blue Bay Hotel (Delavogias, Batsi, 011-30-22820-41150, www.andros-hotels.com/blue-bay), on a secluded beach near the harbor at Agia Marina, is open year-round. Doubles go for about $60 a night, including breakfast.

WHERE TO EAT: Nona, a family-run place at Plakoura, the old port, serves tasty fresh fish and salads. Lunch or dinner for two, including a glass of local wine, goes for about $20.

TINOS

WHERE TO STAY: The Delfinia (Paralia, 011-30-22830-22288), a small, clean place next to the central harbor, has excellent service, and the location, 10 minutes by foot from the cathedral, is perfect. Doubles go for $40. The Afrodite (Anglais Beach, 011-30-22830-23556) is a 16-room guesthouse on a quiet street 10 minutes from the center of town. Doubles, with marvelous views of the sea, go for $30 and include breakfast.

WHERE TO EAT: The Taverna Kipos, on a back street a couple of blocks from the main port, serves up a hearty dinner of broiled lamb, a big Greek salad and cheese for $20 for two.

SIROS

WHERE TO STAY: The Diogenis (Platia Papagou, Hermoupolis, 011-30-22810- 86301) is a solid mid-sized hotel with large, nicely furnished rooms and good service. The location, right on the harbor, couldn't be better. And the price -- $60 for a double -- is half what it would cost on more heavily touristed islands.

Those seeking a more casual atmosphere should try the Sea Colours Apartments (St. Nicholas Bay, 011-30-22810-83011), on a small beach near the center of town. Doubles with refrigerators and TVs go for $40 a night.

WHERE TO EAT: Taverna Bacchus (Platia Siros, Hermoupolis), a favorite among locals, has character and hearty food. A fine dinner for two of rabbit cooked in tomato sauce, grilled vegetables and a carafe of wine goes for $20.

NAXOS

WHERE TO STAY: The Poseidon (St. George Beach, 011-30-22850-25078), a 17-room hotel with simple but pretty decor and a friendly staff, is an easy walk to the quiet beach and the main esplanade. Doubles, with breakfast, go for $35.

WHERE TO EAT: Maro's, on a side street near downtown, is a fine choice. The fish is always fresh, the wine wonderful and the service friendly. Dinner for two is about $18.

INFORMATION: Greek National Tourist Organization, 212-421-5777, www.gnto.gr, or the Embassy of Greece, 202-939-1300, www.greekembassy.org.

-- Gary Lee