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Ask Tom

Restaurant Week, Burger Tediom

Tom Sietsema
Washington Post Food Critic
Wednesday, January 7, 2004; 11:00 AM

In a city loaded with diverse restaurants, from New American chic and upscale Italian to sandwich shops and burritos on the run, finding the best places to eat can be a real puzzle. Where's the best restaurant for a first date or an anniversary? Father's Day? What's the best burger joint? Who has the best service?

Ask Tom. Tom Sietsema, The Washington Post's food critic, is on hand Wednesdays at 11 a.m. ET to answer your questions, listen to your suggestions and even entertain your complaints about Washington dining. Sietsema, a veteran food writer, has sampled the wares and worked as a critic in Washington, Seattle, San Francisco and Milwaukee, and can talk restaurants with the best of 'em. Tom's Sunday magazine reviews, as well as his "Ask Tom" column, are available early on the Web.


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The transcript follows.

Editor's Note: Washingtonpost.com moderators retain editorial control over Live Online discussions and choose the most relevant questions for guests and hosts; guests and hosts can decline to answer questions.

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Restaurant Week: Tom, I'm so excited about restaurant week returning next week!; I've whittled down the list of options to nine that I have read (and heard) good reviews for. Can you please help me choose one with unbeatable ambiance, mouth-watering food and a good wine list? We love to try new cuisines and are rather adventurous diners. Thanks so much; I love your chats!;

Nominees:
15 ria
1789
Colvin Run Tavern
Galileo
Maxim
Melrose
Oceanaire
Ortanique
Signatures

Tom Sietsema: That's quite an eclectic roster!

If you haven't been, you owe it to yourself to try Bob Kinkead's Colvin Run Tavern. I'm a big fan of the space and the service and the cooking.

Good morning, all. Can you believe it's already 2004?

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Laurel, Md.: Hi Tom, I just wanted to share a dining nightmare I had in Paris last week. We had made a reservation at a cafe near our hotel for a New Year's Eve dinner, and everything went well up until it was time for dessert. I ordered a flambe dessert, and when the waiter went to light the grand marnier behind my back, it spilled all over his tray, onto my brand new coat and down the back of my sweater. The lining of my coat was burned through with holes and stained, and the back of my white sweater had several black char marks on it. The waiter didn't apologize, just said "it's okay, it's okay" and then totally attempted to ignore us for the rest of the night. I was so upset about my coat being ruined that I thought I would go home, calm down, and come back and deal with them refunding me in some way later on. Big mistake - not only did they charge us full price for everything, when I went back to ask for some sort of compensation, no one happened to speak any English and the "boss" was never around. By then it was our last day, and I didn't want to waste it waiting around for a manager who may or may not show up at a certain time. I have the name and address of the restaurant, but it's probably too late for any sort of compensation to occur now. I definitely learned my lesson in that if you have a serious complaint, it's best to deal with it there and then - lest they try to wiggle their way out of it later on.

Tom Sietsema: Oh dear. Sorry to hear about that.

Did you try to get the concierge from your hotel involved, to perhaps act as translator? Keep in mind, if you paid with a credit card, you might be in a position to challenge payment.

Your tale reinforces the rule: deal with problems as they occur. Do not wait, ever.

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Washington, D.C.: Tom, thanks for these chats. They're the highlight of my work week. (yep, dull gov't job) anyway, could you expounding on what goes into your decision to write about a particular restaurant as opposed to any of the other 100 or so places you must eat at every month? What is it about a restaurant that makes you think "hmm.. I can write a good column about this one." I assume that location and a desire to be geographically diverse (i.e. rotate through DC, MD and NoVA) goes into the decision, but what else prompts your choice? Thanks again,
Adam

Tom Sietsema: Good question. I do aim for geographic diversity -- much to some readers' disappointment, I'll be frank -- but I also like to offer a mix of different cooking styles, price ranges and "stories," as you mention. Tutto Bene in Arlington is hardly new, for instance, but I loved the idea of a restaurant doing Italian weekdays and Bolivian on weekends. And while writing about new restaurants is a no-brainer -- they're fresh subjects after all -- I also like to look back at places that have been around for awhile, to take a pulse check. So it just depends.

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Arlington, Va.: Tom - I will be heading to London, England, for work in a few months. I am assuming you have been to London in asking this question: Is food in London, as a whole, as bad as they say it is?

Tom Sietsema: London is now a world-class restaurant city. I wrote a Postcard column from there a few years back. Can't wait to return!

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Falls Church, Va.: Any good sushi place that isn't too expensive?

Tom Sietsema: The answer is "yes":

Think Sushi Taro in Dupont Circle, Spices in Cleveland Park, Yoko in Herndon ... and on.

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Falls Church, Va.: Is Rosa Maxicano as good as we expect it to be?

washingtonpost.com: Tom's Weekly Dish on Rosa Mexicano.

Tom Sietsema: I'm giving it time to settle into its new digs.

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Washington, D.C.: I've just returned to live in the area after leaving 15 years ago. I enjoy your column and this chat option. As I'm in the hospitality business I'm always interested in other options for dining. In the few months since returning I've found many new and wonderful places by reading your columns and this chat space. Now I'm in search of a GREAT hamburger. I know you will be able to help me out! Happy New Year and keep up the great work!

Tom Sietsema: You must not be reading TOO closely, because I just wrote about great burgers in my Jan. 4 column. In brief, you should head for Morton's of Chicago (lunch only), the bar at Palena, Colorado Kitchen (check the days the sandwiches are featured), and the local mini-chain, Five Guys.

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Burke, Va.: So, have you been to Decarlo's yet?

Tom Sietsema: Yes. And time stood still.

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Washington, D.C.: Tom, I always appreciate getting the benefit of your knowledge - here's an out of state question, and a tall order, I realize. Looking for a place in South Beach, Miami that could handle a group of 12 adults and 4 children (age 9 months-8years) on Saturday February 14th - to celebrate an 85th birthday party. Happy to go early, pay for a private room etc, to facilitate happy kids and happy other customers. Trying to avoid Valentines day madness, so low-key or ethnic would be fine. Any thoughts? Only food restriction is we have one vegetarian. Thanks.

Tom Sietsema: That is indeed a tall order -- and I haven't been to South Beach in two years. Can any chatters come to a foodie's rescue?

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Fortaleza, Brazil: Down here for a couple of months. At an upscale restaurant, the men's restroom featured a free dispenser of dental floss. I believe that's the first time I've seen this anywhere in the world. Dental floss is also the name given to the small bikinis worn by many Brazilian women, but I'm pretty sure this dispenser was for oral hygiene (it was out so I couldn't very it). At another, more casual, place, the menu featured "hamburger." Included bun, beef patty, tomato, lettuce and-- logically enough-- ham. Funny I've never seen this before.

Tom Sietsema: I have a hunch this isn't a serious post. But its author DID make me chuckle. Mission accomplished, prankster.

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Washington, D.C.: Tom: With all the food you eat, what's your cholesterol level?

Tom Sietsema: That's between me and my doc.

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Federal Triangle, Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom, I'm posting early because I have a meeting. I am a devoted reader of your chat (I have no beefs with your stars, or your description of decor, or your focus on suburbs vs city or vice-versa; I take you for what you offer and thank you for it). OK, I just read that and don't mean to suck up so much. We actually have a babysitter and a reservation at Maestro next Saturday. I know it's one of your favorites, and yes we asked to be seated in the open kitchen area. What else should we do to ensure a memorable evening, food- and experience-wise? Which are the must-haves on the menu? And, since we know our wine reasonably well, and drink mostly Italian, will we be shocked by the wine list (a la Galileo) or pleasantly surprised by a plethora of well-priced quality choices (a la Obelisk). Thanks Tom, and Happy New Year.

Tom Sietsema: The menu has certainly changed since I last dined at the extraordinary Maestro, so I can't steer you to any particular dish(es). But you are in safe hands with sommelier Vincent Feraud, a real pro, who once responded to my request for "something below triple digits" with an Italian charmer that was $45! Now THAT'S my kind of wine steward.

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Harrisonburg, Va.: I'm confused about L'Auberge Provencal, as there seems to be one in both White Post and in Great Falls, Virginia. Help? Much enjoy your work. Cameron Nickels

Tom Sietsema: Two different animals: L'Auberge Provencale is in White Post, L'Auberge Chez Francois is in Great Falls.

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Washington, D.C.: My brother-in-law, who lives a few hundred miles away, will be in DC in March for a conference. Since I live here, he's asked me for advice about a restaurant with a private room where he can host around 20 colleagues. Their hotel is in Woodley Park, so preferably the eating place would be around there, or in Cleveland Park or Dupont Circle. The less adventurous the menu, the better (sadly). (Price is a factor -- not cheap but definitely not pricey.) The only place I can think of is Childe Harold, so I turn to you, Obi-Wan ... Do you have any other suggestions? Or is CH good enough? Thank you!

Tom Sietsema: Is French too adventurous? I admire the cooking at Petit Plats on Connecticut Ave., and it has private dining areas. In Dupont Circle, there's the cozy, Lebanese-themed Bacchus, with lots of meat-and-rice choices. Both are near Metro stations, too.

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Rockville, Md.: The post said Sushi is out and Crudo is in. Could you tell us what Crudo is and where one could enjoy some?

Tom Sietsema: Crudo refers to "raw," as in fish, as in try the crudo sampler at the colorful Ceiba downtown.

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Hamburgers--geez!;: I know you're here to help everyone, but can people please not ask the same questions over and over and over and.... Thanks!;

Tom Sietsema: Zzzzzzzz.

I second that motion!

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Washington, D.C.: Good morning Tom! Was hoping you could help me out: My beau wants to take me out this weekend for my birthday. He's looking to spend about $150-175, including drinks (but pre-tax/tip). What are some nice romantic places in the District that we could tap into?

Tom Sietsema: Everyone's idea of romance is different, of course, but you can't go wrong with Taberna del Alabardero (which has a new Spanish chef, by the way) downtown or the softly lighted Tabard Inn off Dupont Circle.

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Washington, D.C.: Is there a restaurant week web site where we could get all the info on the places participating?

washingtonpost.com: Open Table has the goods.

Tom Sietsema: There you go.

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Arlington, Va.: Kicking off the new year with a splurge at Makoto. Do you still recommend the tasting menu? Sit at the bar or one of the tables? Any other musts or must-nots?

Tom Sietsema: I prefer the bar, because of the up-close-and-personal cooking show that accompanies a meal there. And yes, my preference is still for the tasting menu.

Tip: Wear clean socks, because you'll be asked to leave your shoes at the door on arrival.

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Washington, D.C.: The new Cilantro on M St. Anything?

Tom Sietsema: Nothing -- special, that is.

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Downtown, Washington DC: Hi Tom and Happy New Year!;
I wanted to make a favorable report on our stay at the River Inn and fabulous dinner at Dish. The hotel is very nice, and we had a queen suite (complete with kitchenette) with a lovely view of both the sunset in the evening and sunrise in the morning. Our dinner was superb - I noticed some changes in the menu, and not all the items were available from room service. (we dined in the restaurant). The meatloaf was missing, but served as a special in place of the beef stew. It was excellent and I made a second meal of the leftovers. we started with the mussels in an infusion of ginger - very nice start with a big slab of bread to mop up with. My honey had the rack of lamb, very tender and cooked just right. The service was impeccable. There also seem to be a cadre of locals who are making Dish their hangout - I overheard a woman with her father asking for the white beans (not on the menu)as a substitute side dish. All in all a very pleasant experience, and around $100 with tax and tip and wine.

Tom Sietsema: A publicist's dream post!

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Arlington, Va., Chef Jonny: Do you encounter the same problem I do....white wine served at Icelandic temperatures at some of the best restaurants in the city! HELP SPREAD THE WORD....DIFFERENT FRIDGES FOR WHITE AND REDS.

Tom Sietsema: More often, I encounter red wine served at temperatures better suited to saunas, I'm sorry to continually report.

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Virginia: Tom - Seriously, cholesterol aside, IS it a challenge to stay fit and healthy given your job? Do you workout/run/powerwalk?

Tom Sietsema: It's an on-going battle. I go to the gym three times a week, try not to clean my plate (unless something is really, really, really delicious), hardly ever drink cocktails (wine is a different matter) and always eat a good breakfast -- believe me, it matters. I also walk a lot.

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Washington, D.C.: The top Thai in the area? Price is no object.

Tom Sietsema: The best I've experienced thus far is Thai Square on Columbia Pike in Arlington. It's a bare-bones storefront, but really extraordinary, food-wise.

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Bethesda, MD: Happy New Year!; I'm psyched about Restaurant Week and we're thinking about trying Equinox. Does your review still hold true?

Tom Sietsema: It does.

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Dupont Circle, Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom, Wanted you to know that I took your recommendation for Hosteria del Pesce in Rome and we all loved it. Our waiter, who was a ton of fun, said that he was the one that waited on you and I know you said you had a great time there. Did you know that your review is on the wall? Having dinner with a girlfriend of mine tonight in the dupont circle area. We always try a new place and I was thinking Rice or Saint X. What do you think?

Tom Sietsema: I'm so glad you had fun there. Thanks for the "review."

My vote for dinner tonight? Rice is nice.

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Gettysburg, Pa.: What do you consider a good breakfast?

Tom Sietsema: Fresh fruit and a bowl of oatmeal.

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Gaithersburg, Md.: I went to dinner last night at Green Papaya in Bethesda. I've never heard you mention it, and it was my first time. Has it been there long and have you been there? They serve Vietnamese food that was really great. And the decor was beautiful and relaxing -- tropical without being tacky. Just thought I'd pass along the recommendation.

washingtonpost.com: Tom's review of Green Papaya.

Tom Sietsema: Been there, done that -- and would be happy to go back.

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Re: Hamburgers-geez: Is this chat only for the faithful who tune in every week? Aren't people who don't have the time each week but have a question they would like answered allowed to participate, instead of having to troll through weeks of archived chats to see if their question has been asked before?

Tom Sietsema: Sorry. It's just that the hamburger question has been addressed a zillion times here, and recently in print. I'll try to be more patient, ok?

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LeDroit Park, Washington, D.C.: Just wanted to say "thanks" for today's write up about Antoinette and the Tobago Cafe. She and her restaurant have been a welcome addition to the Howard/East of U Street neighborhood. Hopefully this and the recent Five Guys opening are a harbinger of more good things to come to our neck of the woods!

washingtonpost.com: Today's Dish on Tobago's Cafe.

Tom Sietsema: I hope she does well there (though I must say, I miss what she replaced: Taste of New Orleans).

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Alexandria, Va.: Hi Tom!;
My boyfriend and I are heading for a week's vacation in New Orleans in a few days. Are there any exciting, up-and-coming places we should check out, or any don't-miss spots? I heard the Emeril places are a bit too overdone. I'm particularly anxious to try authentic, non-touristy Creole or Mexican. Thanks in advance!;!;!;

Tom Sietsema: The one restaurant you HAVE to try is Peristyle on Dumaine St. It was the best of several meals I had in New Orleans this fall.

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Washington, D.C.: Funniest menu sighting of late:
Solf-shell crabs
(seen on a Thai restaurant's sandwich board while walking around DC on New Year's Eve)

Tom Sietsema: Thanks for the laugh.

Let me add this, from a dinner I was at last night. The waitress delivered water to my friends and me as we were well into our entrees. She said, and I kid you not:

"I've always found that water makes a meal taste better."

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Washington, D.C. : Whats the deal with frozen butter served at top establishments? This has got to be my #1 top peeve about dining out. You get to a nice place, get seated and they bring you a nice steaming basket of hot, fresh breads or rolls. Then they drop this dish of frozen butter on the table, necessitating the mauling of the bread to spread it on. What the heck is up with that?

Tom Sietsema: Vent away, vent away. I agree with you completely.

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Rockville, Md.: Hi Tom, Where can I get some good Korean Bulgogi? (Willing to travel)

Tom Sietsema: Annandale is where you want to investigate that Korean staple. Consider Sorak Garden, Yechon or Han Sung Oak in Falls Church).

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Pick me! Pick me!: Hi Tom: I'm 25 and somehow missed the day where my parents teach me to cook. I'd like to sign up for a very basic cooking class. Any suggestions? I live in Montgomery County, but would venture out to DC or VA. Thanks and Happy 2004!

Tom Sietsema: What about the excellent L'Academie de Cuisine in your own backyard? Legions of fine chefs -- professionals and home cooks alike -- have come out of its rigorous program.

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Funnier Still: One of the vendors near my office has a sign up for "halfsokes"

Tom Sietsema: Ha!

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Alexandria, Va.: Seen on a daily special board:
Split pee soup

Tom Sietsema: Ugh!

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Sietse, Ma.: When you are out anonymously, do you ever overhear people talking about you and your reviews? Any funny stories along those lines?

Tom Sietsema: Just this past week, I was at the bar of a Way Hot Restaurant and the bar tender was talking about me to the couple sitting to my right. At least he pronounced my name right!

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Eek!; I hope you have time for this: This is late and I hope that you can get to it. I want to take my brother out to dinner after work (Farrugut West) and was wondering if you had any suggestions in the area for us to go that would be yummy and not terribly bad on the wallet. Thanks!;

Tom Sietsema: Corduroy! It's on 14th & K. Don;t be scared by its hotel location. The food is really good -- and you and bro will actually be able to hear yourselves talk.

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Arlington, Va.: Hey Tom, I want to host an engagement brunch for a friend...it would be for about 15 women. Could you recommend a feminine brunch location that would be good for that size group (not too crowded or eager to rush us out the door)? I was thinking maybe Georgia Browns? Thanks for your help!!!
PS. I know you don't care for brunches, but ANY suggestion would be very much appreciated!

Tom Sietsema: Georgia Brown's would not be on my list of choices. Try instead Carlyle in Arlington, Bombay Club downtown, Firefly in Dupont Circle (its back room is oh so cozy), New Heights in Woodley Park or Seasons in Georgetown.

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Arlington, Va.: Happy New Year, Tom! Submitting early because I can't be at my appointed place at 11 a.m. (sigh). So what's the scoop on Roberto Donna? He had such a high profile in the early '90s. With Vivo and some of his other restaurants gone, and most of the Il Radishes closed, it seems like he's in retreat. Was it his choice to focus more on Galileo/Laboratorio, does he have some new tricks up his sleeve, or was the business just not there? (I for one loved most of my meals at his various places, and still cherish the one meal I've been able to afford at Laboratorio!)

Tom Sietsema: Roberto Donna is an extremely talented chef who has had a problem saying "no" in the past. I love his work at the Laboratorio in particular, as well as his affordable and interesting lunch menu served at the bar. I think that not having the distractions of outside businesses is a good thing -- fewer distractions, you know?

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Downtown Washington, D.C.: Tom: I'm asking this way early because it's on what's left of my mind. On New Year's Day I heard a radio ad for Ella's pizza on WGMS. It was a clever ad where a fellow (forgot his name; that's the other part of my mind) quoted a Tom Sietsema review. Then another voice came on reading what I suppose was your review. Questions: Was that you in that ad? Or was it someone else reading your review? If the latter, and a bigger if, if they didn't have your permission, do you mind that sort of exploitation? It is different, after all, from posting the hard copy of your review in a window or on a bulletin board. Thanks for considering this question and may your 2004 be filled with the proper number of calories.

Tom Sietsema: Hmmm. I do radio spots (using my voice) on Thursday and Saturday for WTOP, but have not done anything for WGMS. If it's an ad, I hope I was quoted in context.

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Alexandria, VA: What was halfsokes meant to be?

Tom Sietsema: Half-smoke (picture the sausage)

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Dupont Circle, Washington, D.C.: Good morning Tom! A friend from out of town has asked me to recommend a restaurant near the Mall that is also child friendly. To quote my friend, "if only there was a Cheesecake Factory or a Cafe Deluxe near the Mall, that would be perfect." Alas, there is not. Any suggestions? Thanks.

Tom Sietsema: Kids love Jaleo: little plates of delicious Spanish food in a festive setting. If Andale is open then, it would be another choice. (And thank gawd there's no CF near the Mall, I'm compelled to add!)

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Washington, D.C.: Happy New Year, Tom! I'm posting early with the hope you can help. I have a strange request in that I need a suggestion for a great first date restaurant, but the catch is that this first-date-of-sorts will be on Valentine's Day (long, long story). I'd like to avoid places that are going to be overrun by smooching love birds and that have red hearts with white doilies plastered all over the menu. Any suggestions for a nice, moderately priced place around Dupont or Adams Morgan that has a fun atmosphere, is moderately priced and isn't on the traditional Valentine's Day circuit? Many many thanks. P.s. Was at the Colorado Kitchen on New Year's Day. The food was as good as ever (those eggs are as addictive as crack must be) but boy the service there is just so lacking. 'tis such a shame.

Tom Sietsema: A lot of restaurants offer special, fixed price menus for Valentine's Day, so you're going to have to make a few calls to confirm something a la carte, but I'd start with the following: Al Tiramisu, Little Fountain Cafe, 88, Mantis, Cashion's Eat Place, Sushi Taro and the new Komi on 17th St.

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Washington, D.C.: My favorite sign of all time was at Union Station...."Passenger Discharge"

Tom Sietsema: Eew.

And on that note, folks, I bid you adieu. See you here next week, and thanks for joining in.

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