Ask Tom

Tom Talks Shop

In a city loaded with diverse restaurants, from New American chic and upscale Italian to sandwich shops and burritos on the run, finding the best places to eat can be a real puzzle. Where's the best restaurant for a first date or an anniversary? Father's Day? What's the best burger joint? Who has the best service?

Ask Tom. Tom Sietsema, The Washington Post's food critic, is on hand Wednesdays at 11 a.m. ET to answer your questions, listen to your suggestions and even entertain your complaints about Washington dining. Sietsema, a veteran food writer, has sampled the wares and worked as a critic in Washington, Seattle, San Francisco and Milwaukee, and can talk restaurants with the best of 'em. Tom's Sunday magazine reviews, as well as his "Ask Tom" column, are available early on the Web.

The transcript follows.

Editor's Note: Washingtonpost.com moderators retain editorial control over Live Online discussions and choose the most relevant questions for guests and hosts; guests and hosts can decline to answer questions.

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Tom Sietsema: Good morning, everyone. Thanks for tuning in. I thought we could start today's discussion with a missive from the general manager of the new IndeBleu restaurant, who wanted to respond to last week's chat:

Tom,

I noticed on your weekly chat that a couple wrote in who had an unpleasant experience here on Valentine's Day. I don't know the proper protocol, but I would love to contact them and bring them back in for dinner with our compliments. Is that something you can quietly pass along to them? May I respond to their e-mail address? The feedback I got on Valentine's Day was phenomenal, so I am distressed that their experience was anything less.

Also, regarding your note on the credit-card-for-reservation policy ("Grrrrr"). We thought a lot about this policy and I wanted to explain our rationale. Specifically regarding "fine dining" restaurants: the policy of taking a credit card to reserve a table can cut your 'no-shows' by up to 70%. (This is a policy I have used in Texas, Santa Fe, San Francisco and out in the foothills of Virginia. The effect was the same everywhere.)

Sadly, it is common practice for guests to book tables in four different restauants on the same evening and decide where to go at the last minute - and not call to cancel. Most restaurants that take reservations have a standing policy to overbook by 15 to 20% to account for the no shows (They won't tell you this, but they do it!). The problem is when everyone shows up, guests wait an hour or more for a table. (Fine dining two hours for a table.) We certainly didn't want our guests to be in this position.

The other issue we face is that the traffic, parking and the nature of business around the MCI Center often causes many of our guests to be 20 - 40 minutes late.

If we have a credit card, we will hold their table and accommodate them. If we have no guarantee, we would resell their table after 15 minutes and disappoint a lot of well intentioned diners afflicted with the reality of downtown.
We felt that the way to provide the best overall experience for our guests while still being responsible to the business side of things was to ask them for a minute and a half of their time and a credit card number.

We're really not trying to be difficult or snotty - I promise.

Warmest Regards,
Jay Coldren
IndeBleu

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom. Just a comment in our dinner at Zola on Saturday evening. We were a party of four and asked if we could sit in one of the booths. Hostess replied they are saved for larger parties and we sat at a table. Fifteen minutes later a party of four was seated at the booth that we requested, older crowd. We were very disappointed on top of the fact that our waiter, never asked how dinner was, and never said thank you. Dinner was OK, I was expecting more...

Tom Sietsema: There might be more to the story than what you know. Maybe the quartet specifically asked for a booth when one of the diners called to make a reservation? Just a guess.

I have no reasonable excuse for the waiter who failed to check in, on the other hand.

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Tom Sietsema: This just in, from chef Jose Andres regarding a post from last Wednesday:


Dear Tom:

I want to take a moment to respond to the chatter who posted last week about the change in Jaleo's tortilla de patatas.

The changes we made were part of an overall attempt to improve the quality of the tortilla.

To begin with, we've upgraded the raw material. Our new recipe uses Kennebec potatoes. In my opinion and that of many Spanish cooks, the Kennebec is the absolute best potato for making tortillas. It has the best flavor and a superior texture after frying. And it absorbs more egg resulting in a juicier tortilla.

The fact is tortilla is a national dish, emblematic of Spain. We all grew up eating it and everyone has a different idea of what constitutes a great tortilla. Some like their tortilla to be well done, that to say the egg is cooked very solid. Some like me, prefer their tortilla to be a bit runny on the inside. Some want the egg to be quite raw. I wanted to take that into consideration so we now cook the tortilla to order and allow the diner to choose how well done they want their tortilla.

There are many old favorites on the menu but since we are always trying to do better, some changes are inevitable. Every time we make a change, it is funny we've killed someone's favorite. My wife is the worst! I have the Spanish Inquisition right at home! When I change something she loves, I get an earful!

Quality is an obsession with me and my team. I assure you that this move is to give Washington the real taste of Spain. The old tortilla was good but this one is a lot better. Please try the tortilla again with an open mind.

All the best,

José Andrés
Chef/Co-owner
Jaleo, Zaytinya, Café Atlántico, minibar by josé andrés, Oyamel

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Petworth, Washington, D.C.: Tom, just wanted to comment on a trip to New York City last weekend: we had an amazing meal at 'Cesca thanks to your postcard. While the food was incredible, the service really is what made the meal AND we had a seven-month-old with us who was made to feel one of the family. Second Meal: Otto for pizza and gelato. Again, a superlative waiter that we realize that D.C. just s-cks for quality service. BUT, IMHO 2 Amy's has Otto beat with their crust. Mario Batali will have to visit when he comes to town.
Thanks for the chats.

Tom Sietsema: Glad you had a good time! Otto is fun, but takes a back seat to our own 2 Amys.

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Dupont Circle, Washington, D.C.: Hey Tom,
I've finally given in to my carnivore boyfriend and said we could go out to a steakhouse. The problem is, I hate steak and all red meat, for that matter. Could you recommend a restaurant that serves not only terrific red meat but also excellent seafood or vegetarian dishes? Thanks.

Tom Sietsema: Try Etrusco. You can have grilled fish or pasta, he can savor veal saltimbocca or a flatiron steak.

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Alexandria, Va.: Hi Tom.

What happened to Nectar?

Thanks.

Tom Sietsema: It closed. The staff and the management didn't share the same vision.

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South Riding, Va.: Hi Tom,

If stranded on a Desert Island, would you prefer a Sam and Harry's, Morton's or Capital Grille be the only food on the island?

P.S. Please don't poke holes of reality in my hypotheticals.

Tom Sietsema: Judging from my recent steakhouse forays, I'd pick Cap Grille.

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Rockville, Md.: Tom -- Upon your recommendation in your New York City postcard last year, I had dinner at 'inoteca once and it was excellent! Great selection of cheeses. I'm headed up to the city again soon and want to try something a bit more upscale. Do you have any preferences or views among L'Impero, Babbo, Blue Hill, and Cafe Gray?

Tom Sietsema: Ah, tough choices there. Babbo is really special, but also hard to book. My second choice would be the lovely Blue Hill, followed by L'Impero. Cafe Gray wasn't yet open the lat time I was in New York.

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Washington, D.C.: Every now and then, a man (probably a woman, too) craves an oversized portion. Where are the best places in town for ample portions? Buffets are OK, but not required -- just a place that serves up a good, full portion of quality food and that isn't Cheesecake Factory, which everyone knows has portions that are far bigger than a reasonable person needs a portion to be.

Thanks for your help. Portions!

Tom Sietsema: I recently went to Oceanaire Seafood Room after its publicist told me that the chef was offering shad and its roe, only to discover that neither spring delicacy was on the menu. Boo! Hiss!

The meal DID remind me that the kitchen's motto tends to be "more is more." The portions -- the sides, the desserts -- are enormous.

A gripe: when I asked the waiter about a pinot noir on the menu, he steered me instead to a pinot that was $25 more. I HATE when that happens.

Okay, back to YOU guys and gals ...

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Fairfax, Va.: Hi Tom,
What are your thoughts on Indique? I am planning to go there this weekend. Are there are other places in D.C. with similar cusine?
Thanks a lot.

Tom Sietsema: My last meal at Indique was really mixed. I'd rather eat Indian at Heritage India in Glover Park or the vegetarian (see? I DO pay attention to the needs of vegetarians!) Nirvana downtown.

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Washington, D.C.: I know this question has been asked in the past - but thought I'd bring it up again. What's going on with Arbor in Adams Morgan? Still shuttered and no signs of life. I would be sad to see it go (particularly the wine bar) but I have to wonder how a prime piece of restaurant real estate could be left vacant. Any ideas?

Tom Sietsema: Chatters?

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Washington, D.C.: Dear Tom,

What's your favorite condiment? I'm a fan of Tabasco sauce's new chipotle flavor myself.

Thanks

Tom Sietsema: I'm a sucker for rouille, the zippy and garlicky accompaniment typically served with bouillabaisse, or fish stew.

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Washington, D.C.: Butterfield 9 is one of our favorite restaurants yet it never ranks in the best 100 restaurants in the DC area in the Washingtonian list. Any comments on this terrible ommission of a top national resturant?

Tom Sietsema: Uh, have you eaten there lately?

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Washington, D.C.: Tom: Last week there was a discussion about restaurants and their reservation policy. Some restauranteurs suggested that prices would be much higher if they took reservations (in particular Jose Andres). While I'd be surprised that the prices would double, I think that Palena does it right. Don't want to make a reservation, then sit in the front in the Cafe where most of the dishes are $9. Don't want to risk a wait for a table? Then make a reservation and sit in the back and pay more. Both menus are usually available in the Cafe (though the reverse isn't true) and the service is outstanding regardless. I understand that popular restaurants can fill their tables without taking reservations, but I think it does a disservice to those of us who aren't willing to wait or who have baby sitters to consider. We had a wonderful meal at Tallula a few weeks back but had to wait for 1hr 20 min. for our table even we got there at 6:40 p.m. on a Saturday night. Though we all liked the meal we all vowed never to wait that long again. In fairness to Tallula they did warn us that there would be a 45-60 minute wait though that was a low estimate.

Tom Sietsema: I like the approach at Palena, too, but not every restaurant has the luxury of running two different dining rooms with two distinct menus.

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Alexandria, Va.: Tom,

When is Andale going to announce the trip to Mexico/free dinner winners? OK, so I didn't get an e-mail, which probably means I didn't win, but I'd still like to see who did. It isn't on their Web site or posted at the restaurant itself, and I thought they were going to announce on Monday. Thanks for any sleuthing you can do on this!!

Tom Sietsema: Here's an answer, from Andale's public relations maven:

"Participants were invited to pen a three-course menu and explain, in 100 words or less, why their Valentine menu expresses their love for a deserving sweetheart. From the 322 submissions, the grand prize winner is Mr. Warrick Cromer who receives an all-expense-paid trip for two to Oaxaca, Mexico—where Alison (Swope, Andale's chef) fell in love with Mexico—including round-trip airfare, hotel accommodations for four nights, and a dining allowance with recommendations for some of Alison's favorite Oaxacan restaurants.

A note to the women in Washington, eighty percent of the entries were from men, signifying that there really are romantic men in Washington."

GRAND PRIZE WINNER
Mr. Warrick Cromer, Washington, DC

Pearl Barley Risotto with Wild Mushrooms

Pan-Seared Whole Rainbow Trout, Stuffed with Baby Scallops and Crabmeat, on a Bed of Wilted Swiss Chard and Roasted Red Bliss Potatoes

Pomegranate and Pummelo Segments
Drizzled with Orange Blossom Water and a Sprinkle of Sugar

Earth
Perfect pearl barley for my lovely Pearl with the most exotic mushrooms I picked in the woods, delicately stirred and splashed with Cheval Blanc. Luscious grapes crushed and turned into wine.

Water
…I will travel to the seven seas and dive to the bottom and wait an eternity until I catch the most beautiful fish of all. I will scale it with my own two hands and at night she will take my rough hands unto hers, yet she will sigh exuberantly, a sigh of delight and pleasure….

Heaven
Pomegranate rubies are the fruit of yearning. She will have gone to Paradise, my Heaven, my Earth, my Seven Seas and the Moon within.

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Raleigh, N.C.: I heard that you recently visited a restaurant in Durham, N.C., by the name of Starlu while researching your story on truffles. Did you write an article or review on the establishment?

Tom Sietsema: You credit me with too much. Today's Food section cover story was penned by my colleague Walter Nicholls.

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Washington, D.C.: As a present, my boyfriend has said he will take me to any restaurant of my choice in D.C. We both are pretty open to any type of food, but tend to shy away from more ethnic offerings. My question for you is, given the choice of any restaurant in D.C., which one would you choose for an unforgetable evening. And price is not really an issue, but I'd like to keep it to about $200-$300 total for the two of us, including wine.

Tom Sietsema: What a delicious dilemma! I'd probably try CityZen, Inn at Easton or Citronelle if you haven't been to any of those excellent restaurants.

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Washington, D.C.: Small detail: most of the dishes on Palena's cafe menu are now $10, not $9. They slightly raised their prices a while ago.

Tom Sietsema: Indeed they did, and I THINK I noted that in an earlier chat. Even so, a buck more for a world-class chicken or burger is a small price to pay, right?

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Tom Sietsema: Confidential to GP: I think it's only fair to let the restaurant in question know I'm considering publishing your epic and unusual complaint in advance. Stay tuned.

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Columbia, Md.: Hello Tom,

I'm looking for some great greasy spoon restaurants in D.C. besides Ben's Chili Bowl and Horace and Dickies. Thank you.

Tom Sietsema: Chatters? I like Stoney's on L St. myself.

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Arlington, Va.: Tom,
Like many others who enjoy going to a restaurant to dine, I also like to cook at home. I've invested a tidy sum in a very good set of knives. I can't seem to find a local business where they can be professionally sharpened. I'm hoping you might have some insight as to where local chef's have their knives honed so that I can protect my investment.

Tom Sietsema: Any cooks out there willing to part with the name and number of a good sharpening service? My knives could stand a sharper edge, too!

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Cleveland Park, Washington, D.C.: What is the proper response from a staff person when a customer reports a cockroach crawling across the table?

Last week at Two Amys, the report was met with a shrug and a "I'll tell the guys" from my waitress. When I asked to speak to the manager it was met with a wide-eyed look of innocence and a "I'll tell the guys."

I wasn't looking for a free meal -- the cockroach appeared AFTER I had finished -- but I was expecting some sort of apology. Or an expression of dismay. Or something!

I really like Two Amys but I don't see myself rushing back anytime soon!

Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: An expression of dismay would be appropriate, I agree. A tepid "hmmmm, I'll pass the news along" sounds as if the staff has heard the complaint before.

(In fairness, you'd be surprised at the places I've seen critters crawling around. Not that that's of any help to you, just that it's not a totally uncommon event.)

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Near Silver Spring, Md.: Tom:
I see from your Weekly Dish column today that Michael Landrum of Ray's the Steaks has hired "two guys at the forefront of fashionable cooking" for his new place in Silver Spring. I'm sure that I and many others have been looking forward to a great steakhouse a la RTS, not another fancy food place. Does this mean that the new place is going to be an "innovative expression of... classic American dining" at the expense of good steaks? Tom, say it ain't so.

washingtonpost.com: The Weekly Dish, (Post, Feb. 23)

Tom Sietsema: Actually, I think it will be (or at least I HOPE it will be) simple, honest American cooking without a lot of frills.

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Alexandria re: favorite condiment: Remoulade and aioli are top-notch condiments. The remoulade at the Great American Restaurants is a favorite, and the aioli at Cafe Salsa, which is made with red peppers, is enough by itself to draw me to eat there.

Tom Sietsema: Mmmmmmmm.

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Eastern Market, Washington, D.C.: Tom -- My partner and I have reservations tonight at Poste, with a grad school friend of his who's treating. What do you recommend there? From your reviews, it sounds like the newest chef there is doing a good job.

Tom Sietsema: He is! Robert Weland is a welcome addition to the city. If they are stil on the menu, try his venison (accompanied by potato gratin) and rabbit (served over buttery noodles)

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NYC review: Went to NY over the weekend. The Gates in Central Park were great!

Couple quick restaurant notes to pass along:
Stopped for drinks and appetizers at Divine Bar (just west of Broadway in the 50's). Yep, it's a wine bar with an interesting selection of wine flights. Had two great appetizers - lobster/conch fritters. They had a soft center full of a good mix of both lobster and conch. I've had conch fritters before which were mostly batter with chewy bits of conch with little flavor.

They also had an interesting warm cauliflower/potato/cheese dip that was served with fresh potato crisp - very warming on a cold evening.

We also had dinner at Artisanal - very French bistro-y kind of place. They were very busy, but we had a great waiter - Robert, and the food was excellent. The best cheese fondue I've had. The skate fillet with citrus sauce and rutabaga cream was excellent.

Tom Sietsema: Thanks for your mini-reviews!

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Washington, D.C.: Dear Tom,

Of the following, which do you prefer?

1. Potbelly
2. Quiznos
3. Au Bon Pain
4. Cosi
5. Subway

Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: I'd have to eat more of their menus to pick a favorite, but from what I've experienced, I'd probably opt for Door Number One.

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Petworth (a different one!;): Knife sharpening - a number of hardware stores sharpen knives. I've used Strosneider's in Bethesda and 17th St Hardware. Union Meat at Eastern Market also sharpens knives. They do an exceptional job.

Greasy Spoons - Florida Ave Grill at 11th and Florida NW. Jimmy T's at 5th and E Cap St. Market Lunch. The Red Lion at 21st and I.

Tom Sietsema: Wow, a two-fer! Thanks for the info.

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Sharp Knives: Union Meat in Eastern Market offers a knife sharpening service. Probably better to try during the week than busy weekend.

Tom Sietsema: And another suggestion.

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Arlington: Re: Confidential to GP. Is that a teaser for next week's chat? I will have to tune in. Even if it turns out not to be true, we demand a censored version.

Tom Sietsema: Long story short: Customer has some problems with a restaurant. He complains. Restaurant finds out he's a waiter at a Big Deal Restaurant -- then calls his employer to complain about his behavior in their restaurant. Customer/waiter gets in a wee bit of hot water.

It's .... messy.

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Philadelphia, Pa.: Okay, can I just air a pet peeve? It's like fingernails on a chalkboard to me, and I see it on this chat a lot.

It's not restauraNteurs, it's restaurateurs.

Right?

It drives me crazy when people try to use a fancy word but mess it up. Thanks for letting me gripe, and kudos to you for just politely using the word correctly in your responses.

Tom Sietsema: Vent away!

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Portion sizes round 2: I noticed someone wrote in to ask where to get large servings. I have the opposite problem - I love good food but can never finish my meal. I wish more places would offer half sizes. On the same theme what do you and readers think of doggy bags? I have to have the rest of my meal tossed out and would rather take it home to reheat. But is taking leftovers home a no-no in fine places?

Tom Sietsema: When I'm paying $100 a head for dinner, you can be assured I have no problem asking for leftovers to be wrapped to go.

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Alexandria, Va.: Hey Tom,

Do you have an annual quota for the use of "redolent" in your restaurant reviews?

Tom Sietsema: I do now!

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Arlington, Va.: Have you heard anything about the resturant Vegetate that's opening in May? It was mentioned in the GOG Blog online last week.

Tom Sietsema: I have not. But it sounds like it could use a name change!

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Chef Club: I don't want to be oversensitive or make this chat too political, but...

Last week when asked about why the Chef's Club had no women, you said the article's author "pointed to the 11 p.m. start time, the 3-4 a.m. finish time, neither of which are exactly convenient for married women or mothers."

Are those times more convenient for married men or fathers? Why the double standard?

Tom Sietsema: Anyone care to chime in here?

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Washington, DC: RE: Knife Sharpening.

La Cuisine in Old Town Alexandria and Sur la Table are great places to get your knives sharpened. I've also heard that hardware stores do so also, but I don't have any experience with them.

Tom Sietsema: Cool beans.

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Last week's NY Questions: Some one was asking about budget eats in New York -- and about your postcards fron New York City -- a great way to get a feel for cheaper, also more neighborhoody places is to check out the NY Times's "Under $25" column. Every week in their Wednesday dining section they have a review of a generally more expensive place and they also have an "Under $25" as a former New Yorker its a great source for generally more casual places with a strong neighborhood base.

Tom Sietsema: Yes, but have you ever actually PAID "$25 and Under" for one of those meals?

I think the column needs a new name, maybe "$50 and Under."

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Polish food!: For those of you looking for Polish food in D.C., the answer is here! W Domku Cafe has opened in Petworth (details below, from petworthdc.net). "W Domku" literally means "in a small house."

The menu is not extensive -- it's more of a coffeehouse/bar with some food offerings. Still, if you're hankering for barszcz, pierogi, or kielbasa with bigos, it's the place for you.

Domku Cafe -- Extended Breakfast Hours! Thursday, February 17, 2005

What: Domku Cafe has extended its hours for coffee and breakfast
Where: 821 Upshur Street, NW
Contact: 202-722-7475
When: New hours:
Tuesday - Thurs, 8am to 11pm
Friday - Saturday, 8am to 1am
Sunday, 10am to 3pm
Monday - Closed

Tom Sietsema: I'm intigued!

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Stockholm?: Can I convince you to go to stockholm in March, and write a postcard prior to my April 6 trip there?

If not, do any of the chatters have suggestions on places to dine there?

Tom Sietsema: Can anyone help out a fellow diner? My immediate future does not include Sweden. Alas.

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On steering wine choices: I want to second your distaste of being steered to a more expensive wine and share an opposite example. My wife and I went to 2941 around Valentine's day and asked the Sommelier (who we recognized from Citronelle) about a French Pinot Noir. She steered us to a significantly less expensive New Zealand Pinot that was magnificent. Now I have a new region of Pinot's to explore and a little money to do so, and today's wine column to help me!; Life is good.

Tom Sietsema: LOVE that.

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Bethesda, Md.: Tom, help.

Leaving for Paris later today... can you recommend any good "local" restaurants (bistros, etc.) that are reasonably priced, representative of Paris cusine and worth the time, expense, etc., to work in to a two-day business trip.

Thanks.

Tom Sietsema: La Regalade in the 14th is terrific (but good luck getting a reservation at this late date) and Chez L'Ami Jean in the 7th is fun for Basque cooking. This time of year, I'm also drawn to the choucroute at the venerable Chez Jenny off the Place de la Republique.

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McLean, Va.: Going to dupont circle for a meeting (Mass Ave) and trying to find a dinner spot afterwards (8pmish). I love seafood, but I'm allergic to dairy and gluten (wheat, oat, etc). I tend to eat at Legals and McCormick & Schmicks mostly because the food is fresh and they're good about the allergy issue. Don't worry I don't have to go to a chain, I just have a thing with reliability mostly b/c of my allergies. Suggestions?

Tom Sietsema: Johnny's Half Shell, Pesce and Etrusco are my current favorites for seafood in that neck of the woods.

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Falls Church, Va.: I was excited to see where Jarad Slipp will be working in the area again. I may actually travel to Maryland to eat at this establishment. Whatever happened to the chef at Nectar? I liked that place a great deal and thought those two were a good team because they put out great food and great service.

Tom Sietsema: The last I heard, Jamison Blankenship was cooking around in New York City. It's common for chefs who find themselves between gigs to work in the kitchens of chefs whom they admire or otherwise want to learn soimewthing from, and I believe he's working in a few high-end places.

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Washington, D.C.: Ever heard of L'Ecole in New York, the restaurant that has students at the French culinary institute as its chefs? We'll be going there in March and were wondering if you've ever been...
Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: I was there at a private luncheon a few months ago and really enjoyed myself. I say, go!

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Silver Spring, Md.: Tom,
We finally got a chance to go to CityZen and it was all that you said and more. I am one of those people that is usually very down on DC's dining scene and until now I have not been anywhere (and I have been everywhere) that I would consider on par with a top-tier restaurant in, for example, New York, San Francisco, Los Angeles. (I know you disagree with me, or at least claim to.) But I would agree that CityZen would be a top restaurant in any city.

While we were paying our hefty tab (well worth it -- even though it's now up to $125 per person for the tasting menu) we started wondering how you keep your anonymity when you pay. Do you pay cash (even if the tab is huge) or do you have a credit card with a fake name? I suppose maybe you don't want to give away all your secrets but my husband and I are dying to know. Please share!

Tom Sietsema: You're right: I don't want to give away all my secrets.

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Re: Restaurateur: From Random House:

The word restaurateur is sometimes spelled "restauranteur," but this is an error. The word for the proprietor of a restaurant is correctly spelled restaurateur.

Both restaurant and restaurateur are borrowed from French. To greatly simplify the explanation, restaurateur is formed from the French equivalent of the English verb restore and the suffix -tor, which forms personal nouns from verbs (two examples are actor and orator). Restaurateur is an older word than restaurant.

The word restaurant, on the other hand, is formed from a present participle of the restore verb. One of the meanings the present participle can have is 'something that performs (the activity of the verb)', so deodorant, something that deodorizes, and restaurant, a place that restores.

In other words, both restaurant and restaurateur are based on the same verb, but they are not directly related; restaurateur is not formed from restaurant with a suffix added. Since the word restaurant is so much more common, its spelling tends to influence the spelling of restaurateur. The spelling restauranteur is fairly common, but it should be regarded as an error.

Here's the link:

http://www.randomhouse.com/wotd/index.pperl?date=19980112

Tom Sietsema: I feel like I'm back in school. Not that there's anything wrong with that ....

Thanks.

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re: knife sharpening: Sur Le Table sends knives out to be sharpened by a professional service. Don't trust your knives to the hardware store!; It's worth it, even if you're without your knives for a day or two. The price is not unreasonable, either.

Tom Sietsema: Ok

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Capitol Hill, Washington, D.C.: Inspired by an article in today's New York Times, what do you think is the best place to find roast chicken in the area? We are in recess, so I am able to do more exploring for lunch options.

Tom Sietsema: Hands down, my favorite roast chicken is served at the bar at Palena, which is open only for dinner. Does anyone out there care to weigh in with another candidate?

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VA to Stockholm: Sweden's great for eating, but it is not cheap. Plan to spend 1/2 again to double what you'd expect here. That said, this summer we enjoyed the cozy Kryp Inn in the Gamla Stan (Old City) and a trip to the Grand Hotel for a traditional smorgasbord with all the trimmings is worth it (especially if you like herring and other pickled fish). Oh, and be sure to have a drink at the Ice Bar. It's what it sounds -- a bar where the stools, bar, and glasses are all made of ice. Parkas provided. Enjoy!;

Tom Sietsema: A few days' suggestions in one paragraph. Thanks.

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Washington, D.C.: Tom, how do you pronounce your last name? My mother thinks it is Seetsema, and I say Seeyetsema. Thanks!;

Tom Sietsema: Mom is right.

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Capitol Hill, Washington, D.C.: Tom--My partner and I were treated to dinner last night
at Meyhane near Eastern Market. I'd be the first to admit
that the place has its quirks in both food and service;
nevertheless, there is some good eating to be done there.
But what impressed me is how the couple we were with
had befriended the owners, which resulted in some extra
treats for our table. Apparently, some months ago, the
owners' young child had been injured, leaving the
restaurant short staffed, so this couple and some other
regulars actually took over taking orders, pouring wine,
busing tables, etc! I was also impressed that the owner
remembered complimentary martinis that this couple had
ordered for my partner and me. That is all to say that even
an uneven place like this one can turn into a delight when
you become a "beloved regular"!

Tom Sietsema: True, true.

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Better experience at Zola: I read the early posting about a disappointing night at Zola. What a contrast to the amazing waitress we had there a few weeks ago. She was attentive, but not overly so; informative without seeming to push the most expensive items; and even offered one guest who was wearing black pants a black napkin. Food and wine were good too, but I noticed the great wait staff because that's often an area of criticism on this discussion.

Tom Sietsema: All of which is why I visit a restaurant three or more times before writing about it. Different days can reveal different charms - or flaws.

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Knife Sharpening - Word of Caution: If you've gone out and spent a lot of money on a good set of knives, be careful about where you have them sharpened.

If too much heat is generated during the sharpening process (like from a wheel or grinder that's spinning too fast), it can change the metallurgy and ruin the blade.

A lot of manufacturers will let you send a knife in to be sharpened at the factory. Hard as it may be to go without a favorite tool for a while, at least you'll know they're doing it correctly...

Tom Sietsema: Thanks for the reminder.

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Bar at Palena: So, does the bar not take reservations? I'm interested in trying, but not at the restaurant prices at the moment.

Tom Sietsema: Correct. The bar does not take reservations.

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RE:Chef Club: : There doesn't have to be a double standard. They are meeting when it's convenient for most members to attend. You are being overly sensitive.

There are married men who wouldn't be thrilled with their wives starting their evenings at 11 p.m. to return at 3 a.m. That's an issue for the couple to address.

We all know, there are husbands whose wives would have the same objection. Does it have to stated every single time?

Tom Sietsema: Thanks for weighing in on the matter.

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Beyond the Beltway, Virginia: Hi Tom,
I would like to throw my two cents in concerning comped items for guests. As the manager of a small, family-run fine dining restaurant, I decide when a comp is appropriate. It is also my job to know what is happening on my floor. If I'm doing my job then a guest should never have to complain in order to get something comped. I should know what has happened and taken the proper steps to recover. If this means "buying" a drink or taking care of the whole check so be it. Usually those who complain to get "free stuff" don't get anything but a sincere apology. This may come across as bad business, but do we really want guests that look for handouts in the first place? That being said, I want every guest that steps through the door to have the best experience possible and I will do everything in my power to see that that happens. Tom, I love your chats and sorry that my two cents turned into a buck fifty!;!;

Tom Sietsema: I'm always happy to share information that encourages thought, debate and -- better dining experiences for all involved.

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Washington, DC: Hey Tom,

As a long time cook at popular small restaurant and bar in DC I wanted to chime in on the issue of food coming out of the kitchen slowly. Of course you may just have a bad or new server, but I want to ask folks to be open minded to the fact that there could be reasonable delays in the kitchen. You server should inform you of any delays, but amidst the hecticness, even the best can forget. Never feel bad about asking the status of your meal. A decent server won't mind checking on your order and will genuinely feel bad if they've overlooked you and work quickly to remedy the matter.

However, there are certain situations that customers should expect meals to come bit later than normal. If you're dining at a small restaurant, that means there is also a small kitchen that can probably handle the orders of not more than two to three tables at a time. This usually isn't a problem. But once/twice a week every table is empty at 6:15 and then all the tables are full 20 minutes later and I have 12 tickets with 30-40 total plates brought to me within a matter of minutes. This is the setback of not taking reservations - you can't stagger orders to ensure the type of dining experience you would like to provide. Good cooks will tell servers which tables should expect a delay based on order of ticket and special requests. Special requests can often take a cook away from multi-tasking and set back every order 5-15 minutes, so we often have to push that order back a bit to balance between one happy customer and 10 unhappy tables. Finally, if you walk in with a large group of 8 or more and don't see any tables that seat more that 4 people, you must reasonably expect a small wait on your food. At least once a night I have groups of 10, 12 or 15 walk off the street, but at best, I can make 8 meals at a time because the size of my kitchen. Be aware of the type of restaurant and the situation you've walked into and you're more likely to enjoy your wait over drinks and conversation rather than wondering where the heck your dinner is.

That being said, myself and the servers I work with (who I think are top notch) aren't perfect. We'll comp when appropriate and always apologize. And I even come out of the kitchen to take responsibility and make amends for any errors. Service and kitchen staff are no more perfect than anyone else. The distinction is we constantly have even the slightest imperfections called to our attention with the demand for immediate ammends. Few people are humbled more often and spend more time apologizing than us, even when we're doing the best given the circumstances. We don't need sympathy - this is our chosen profession - just a little understanding and patience every now and then. Thanks, Tom.

Tom Sietsema: Your place sounds like the kind of restaurant I'd like to frequent.

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Rockville, Md.: Response to Stockholm: There are many nice restaurants there, but I highly recommend the Sunday Smorgasbord at the restaurant in the Grand Hotel for an excellent sampling of traditional Swedish food. Ask the Concierge at the Grand Hotel, or any other good hotel, for other suggestions.

Tom Sietsema: It's your day, Stockholm-bound!

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Arlington, Va.: In search of: moderately priced, simply prepared American food without a lot of "scene" for when my in-laws visit from Kentucky. Have done Clydes/Old Ebbitt/and the like to death. Prefer to dine in D.C. Many thanks.

Tom Sietsema: Try the cozy Firefly in Dupont Circle or Little Fountain Cafe in Adams Morgan. Both are better than where you've dined previously.

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Looking for something different...: Tom,

How about some of your favorite "out of the way" places? Inn at Little Washington is an obvious choice, but I was thinking of some more affordable places like the Rail Stop out in The Plains, Va.

Tom Sietsema: How about Four & Twenty Blackbirds in Flint Hill? It's a lovely casual destination.

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Washington, DC - Jared Slipp fan!;: Tom:

A chatter just posted that Jared Slipp will be working at a Md establishment. Can you provide any details? I am a fan and was disappointed when Nectar closed. Thanks!;

Tom Sietsema: See my Weekly Dish column for details.

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Boston, Mass.: Hi Tom,
I know this is a weird question, but have you ever been to Flo's hot dog stand in York, Maine? It's a ramshackle trailer that has the best hot dogs in the country, topped with a secret hot sauce and mayonnaise, dished out by a sassy descendant of the original "Flo," who knows everyone.
Does DC have any such local curiosities - fun characters serving amazing cheapo food?

Tom Sietsema: I see a "Postcard from York" in my future ...

Ever been to the lunch-only CF Folks on 19th St? I love the place, in part because the food is good and interesting, in part because owner Art Carlson is such an adorable grouch. If only there were more such in Washington.

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Washington, DC: Tom, I love your work and therefore I am sorry to be grumpy but I wish you would STOP recommending Palena in these chats. I am a regular there, and over the past few months that place has been pocked (not packed, pocked) with loudly twittering 20-somethings who think they're at the latest Zola or Helix or something like that. Needless to say, this ruins MY experience. Palena is not a happening new club, people: it is a fine neighborhood RESTAURANT that happens to have a great bar. So go back to your 1221 and your Blue Gin.

Thanks for letting me vent.

Tom Sietsema: Don't shoot the messenger, folks.

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White Plains, Md.: One quik complaint about Cityzen. When you call the main number, and nobody is there, the answering machine directs you to call an entirely different number to reach the reservation department. Why can they have a "To Make a Reservation Press 1#" option. And, yes I have made the complaint to staff.

Tom Sietsema: I found that odd myself.

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RE: Roasted Chicken: Colorado Kitchen's roast chicken tastes like I wished my mom's did.

Tom Sietsema: Yep.

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Washington, DC: Dear Tom,
I don't know how to respond to the manager's posting from IndeBleu. My boyfriend and I had a kind of sub-par dining experience there on Valentine's day that I thought might be due to the fact that we had opted against the tasting menu, which I had emailed in about last Wednesday. I would truly like to keep IndeBleu on my "must dine at" list, and would love to take him up on his offer. How can I identify myself as the poster from last week? Can the ISP be tracked back to my computer, since I posted from work both times (but don't tell my bosses!;!;). Thanks Tom, and thanks to IndeBleu for caring about a customer's satisfaction!; Like I said, we have friends who "know from good food" that raved about their experience there!; Thanks!;
S

Tom Sietsema: Email me at asktom@washpost.com and I'll see that your name and number are directed to the proper authority figures. (But hurry, because I have to catch a plane!)

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Greasy Spoon: Ollies Trolley - a block or 2 from Metro Center and the Reagan Building. Big burgers, fries dusted in Old Bay.

Tom Sietsema: I've walked by it a zillion times, have yet to eat there. But I like the crowd: cops, tourists, FBI suits, etc.

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Washington, DC: A friend just returned from Paris. She told me the person she was staying with took her to a "French" cafe - that is, where French people eat - instead of one for tourists. Is it true that there are two such classes of restaurants in Paris, and how does one know the difference? I've never been.

Tom Sietsema: There are no cafes strictly for tourists, or vice versa, but certainly the closer you are to major tourist attractions, the likelier you'll be to find "visitors" at your side. Just like in DC!

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To Palena regular: If you want a place to yourself, join a private club - last time I checked Palena was a public place. And shocking as it may seen, even some of us twenty-somethings like a sophisticated atmosphere and good food.

Tom Sietsema: The Other Side responds.

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Burke, Va.: My 18-year-old neice and a friend are coming to D.C. to visit a friend at GW for the weekend. While I am sure they have plans at nighttime I'd like to take them to lunch or an early dinner on Saturday. I will have my three-year-old with me. Can you suggest someplace in the city that will accomodate a toddler but still give these about-to-be-sophisticated adults a nice meal? Thanks.

Tom Sietsema: Try Chef Geoff's near the stages, or Zaytinya for something more hip. The latter is loud; no one will notice a crying baby.

Okay, that's it for today. Have a four-star week!

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Washington, DC: Tom,

I want to thank both restauranteurs who specifically addressed reader and customer concerns at the beginning of today's chat. It shows their sincerity and committment to making Washington a great restaurant town. You'll never make everyone happy in the restaurant business or in life, but I'm guessing that most people simply want to know their concerns have been heard and want to be able to gauge the rules up front. Mr. Andres and Mr. Coldren accomplish that in my book.

Tom Sietsema: I agree!

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