CENTRO ITALIAN GRILL (4838 Bethesda Ave., Bethesda; 301-951-1988. Metro: Bethesda) -- Just when you think your palate has frostbite, Centro slides you a plate of gnocchi so fine-grained you think it had been passed through silk instead of stainless steel, and slicks it with unctuous veal cheek ragu. For that, and for the painstakingly reduced mushroom stuffings, much would be forgiven (over-seared scallops, aggressively sweet-sour pomegranate sauce on the quail). And for the sake of the huge wild boar crostini, the Italian ploughman's lunch, I'd gladly add a few rounds on the treadmill. Centro finally cooks as smart as it looks. Entrees $16-$30.
TEXACAN BEEF AND PORK CO. (21750 Red Rum Dr., Ashburn; 703-858-5565 or 877-877-8766) -- While it may not be as chunky, as fun or (fortunately) as fatty as hand-pulled pork belly, the barbecues from this clean-as-a-whistle high-tech kitchen are pretty darn good, distinctly sauced, though only moderately hot, and unusually convenient. Pop the vacuum pack in the microwave for a couple of minutes and it's ready to go. The chicken is a little sweet (it makes quick Brunswick stew); and the neat meat size of all flavors is particularly handy for kids. Go in for carryout lunch and get three ribs, a sandwich and a soft drink for only $6. And through the end of this month, all retail sales are donated to tsunami relief. Note, it closes by 6:30. Sandwiches $2.50, barbecue $8-$9, ribs $10-$17.
Cassatt's BLT Panini on Ciabatta bread served with a latte, a trio of spreads and a basket of bread.
(Len Spoden)
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BARE BONES (20260 Goldenrod Lane in the Hampton Inn, Germantown; 301-916-3700) -- This relocated Gaithersburg family favorite is the opposite of Texacan -- mostly sit-down, wood rather than stainless steel, a full bar, afternoon/evening hours and TVs in full force -- but however old-fashioned, the BBQ is a biiiiig draw. Ribs are famously the house specialty, especially the pork baby backs; and while the Texas prime-rib chops are rather fatty, they are obviously bovine and the meat falls off the bone. Take 'em out, cut 'em off and stew for ragu. Appetizers $4.75-$15.95; entrees $11.95-$25.50.
CILANTRO (3241 M St. NW; 202-334-6247) -- This is the sort of relaxed, hospitable, all-day-hours place whose overall satisfaction rating is better than the sum of its parts. The tapas are always interesting and often pleasing, the wine list adequate (although some sherry might be nice) and the mojitos first-rate. Good bets include the paella (for two); eggplant Catalana, a sort of batterless parmigiana; soujouk, a lightly spicy beef sausage; the more substantial tequila duck; and the mixed mezze platter, with nice hummus, baba ghanouj and lemony dolmades. Tapas $5.50-$11.50.
BOMBAY (11229 New Hampshire Ave. in the White Oak Shopping Center, Silver Spring; 301-593-7222) -- Even in a time when shopping strip restaurants can be quite good, this meticulous Indian kitchen stands out: for its complex and carefully thought out seasonings, its layered sauces and its deft timing. The chicken tikka masala, with its hint of sweetness and roasty-tomato sauce, puts most butter chicken to shame. Goat curry is nutty, spicy, gamy, rich and aromatic all at once. Almond-milky lamb korma is more Persian, lightly spicy and sweet; Bombay biryani, with its variety of meats and shrimp, gets its real power from the quality of its rice; and the bhindi masala, sauteed okra, is as good as it gets. Entrees $7.95-$14.95.
CASSATT'S (4536 Lee Hwy., Arlington; 703-527-3330) -- This "Kiwi cafe," referring to the New Zealand casual mindset, not the fruit, takes on family-style dining in a new and, considering the tight space, remarkably successful way -- fast food their way, to paraphrase Jacques Pepin. With an easy, affordable and just-variable-enough menu of sandwiches (particularly the turkey BLT) and good but not pretentious mains (really good scallops and flavorful lamb), New World wines and espresso drinks, plus the lure of eggs Benedict on weekends and a built-in babysitter on Thursdays, it's no wonder it's a neighborhood staple. Panini $7.34, entrees $9.87-$15.60.
AMICI MIEI (1093 Seven Locks Rd. in the Potomac Wood Plaza; 301-545-0966) -- Deft, meticulous and rigorously polished, the food at "My Friends' Place" almost convinces you to take the name seriously, especially when the joint is jumping with three-generational families and the expansive staff. Don't miss the simply grilled seafood, the fabulous vitello tonato, the veal-stuffed ravioli or, when available, the venison stew -- and don't let the heft of the osso bucco distract you from the delicacy of the polenta. And if you're in the mood for pizza, make sure to spring for the buffalo mozzarella. Entrees $11.95-$21.95.
JERK PIT (8145-C Baltimore Ave./Route 1, College Park; 301-441-4786) -- Pack your appetite and leave the dry-cleanables at home, because this friendly Jamaican grill gives "finger-lickin' good" a whole new meaning. The wings are particularly fine, moist and with a layered, nutty-dark rub with insinuating rather than wham-bam heat; the Pop-Tart size patties -- stuffed with your choice of ground beef, chicken, shrimp or greens -- are flaky and have their own sly spicing; and the pork, though traditionally left a little fatty, has the most allspice punch. Watch for bones in the jerk and curry chicken, and for Friday night oxtail stew. Entrees $5.95-$12.
NOOSHI (1120 19th St. NW; 202-298-3138. Metro: Dupont Circle or Farragut North) -- This stylish and savvy pan-Asian establishment -- its nickname is a contraction of Oodles Noodles, its original moniker, and "sushi" -- has always served up bowls o' plenty at moderate prices, especially when it comes to variously flavored noodles, though sometimes with wan or, more likely, Americanized or "pan"-homogenized seasonings. (There are also occasionally nights when there seems an odd shortage of vegetables, for those who prefer the "greener" mixes.) That concept carries over to the sushi bar, which has nightly all-you-can-eat menus for $25 or $30; it's not always expert but of good quality. Presentation is, as always, chic and also smart, such as the stainless steel basket tray beneath the fried calamari; and the service is savvy. Find a few favorites and go with them. Entrees $7.25-$12.50.
SINGAPORE BISTRO (1134 19th St. NW; 202-659-2660. Metro: Dupont Circle or Farragut North) -- The sushi chefs at this low-key Asian cafe have trained at some of the more serious Japanese restaurants in town, and it shows (particularly in the rice), although fans of its happy hour prices may not even notice. The noodle and soup dishes vary in quality, but especially if you can establish a serious spice preference so that the kitchen doesn't feel required to rewrite recipe history, you can find some real bargains: mee goring, the Indonesian veggie-noodle toss; seasoned and barely panko-breaded calamari (also on the happy hour menu); grilled lime chicken; and the sushi. Entrees $7.95-$11.95. Not wheelchair accessible.
HARD TIMES CAFE (1404 King St., Alexandria; 703-837-0050. Metro: King Street. Thirteen other area locations) -- This 25-year-old family-friendly local chain still serves up bargain bowls of chili -- Texas-style coarse ground, the family recipe; slightly sweet, cinnamony Cincinnati style; mushroomy veggie; and somewhat spicier, competition-style Terlingua Red -- and all the fixin's, from neutral spaghetti and cheese to potent jalapeños and chili vinegar, but nowadays it also delivers good grilled chicken, salmon and even some of those smaller, old-fashioned steaks you don't need to refinance for (not at all locations). Chili from $5.79, entrees $8.99-$10.99 (prices may vary slightly).
