Thirty years ago, the world was full of people who thought that only France and -- maybe -- Germany could produce wines worth drinking. Such views now have a world-is-flat ring to them. Today, most wine lovers acknowledge that no continent or handful of countries holds a monopoly on excellence.
Indeed, countries you probably don't think of as making wine at all are now making remarkably delicious ones.
Uruguay? Believe it. Lebanon? You bet. And the list of unlikely but highly promising sources goes on, including Israel, Hungary, Mexico and more. In recent years I've tasted gorgeous Pinot Blanc from Slovenia, exemplary Pinot Noir from Canada and marvelous Pinot Gris from Slovakia. The flow from these countries to our shores is still just a trickle, but it is sure to increase in coming years.
How did impressive new wines like this sneak up on us? Two key factors seem to be at work. First, the science and technology of viticulture and enology have diffused throughout the world, making it possible for anyone with decent soils and a basically hospitable climate to grow grapes and make wine in ways closely comparable to the world's greatest estates. Second, the rise of truly global competition among producers has forced everybody who wants to make wine anywhere to make it well and consistently -- or face commercial extinction.
Globalization certainly has its downside, but it also promises delicious compensation for wine lovers with open minds and curious palates. The future of high-quality wine is not about two countries or five countries, but perhaps as many as 40, and the savvy consumer will try these wines as they become available here.
My recent tastings indicate that wines from the vinous hinterlands are improving rapidly. Some of the top performers are profiled below, in order of preference. Regions and countries of origin appear in parentheses, along with approximate prices. In case they are not immediately available at your local wineseller, I've also indicated the importer for each wine, followed by the Washington distributor:
REDS
Viña Progreso (Uruguay) Reserve Cabernet 2002 ($24, Boisset America/Wine Partners): This wine suggests that the future may see a three-way race for primacy in South America. With dark color, full body, intense blackberry fruit and well-balanced accents of smoke and spices, it is a real threat to any comparably priced bottle from Chile or Argentina. Also impressive is this producer's Reserve Tannat 2002 ($20), and we can look forward to other excellent Uruguayan wines from the Tannat grape before long.
Galil Mountain (Galilee, Israel) Merlot 2001 ($16) and Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 ($18, Yarden/Winebow): I couldn't believe how good these wines were when I first tasted them in spring 2004, but now I'm convinced. The Cabernet shows excellent varietal character in aroma and flavor, but with atypically soft texture. The 2001 Merlot is perhaps even more charming, and is just what most consumers have in mind when buying or ordering Merlot. It features soft, lush texture and delectable plum and red berry fruit, and the 2002 Merlot now in the pipeline is even better.
Gilliard (Valais, Switzerland) Dole des Monts 2002 ($28, Dryfus Ashby/Wine Partners): Swiss wines are chronically expensive because of the strong Swiss franc, the country's high wage scale and the expense of tending small plots on steep slopes. However, they are also distinctive and often quite wonderful, as in the case of this ultra-delicate beauty made predominantly from Pinot Noir. Color and body are both light, so this isn't your thing if you only go for big bruisers. However, the soft texture and delightful notes of black cherries, spices and wood smoke make this a perfect match for fish, light chicken dishes or a Tuesday night omelet.
Chateau Kefraya (Bekaa Valley, Lebanon) 2000 ($20, Volubilis Imports/National): Reds from Lebanon's Bekka Valley can possess an uncanny resemblance to Bordeaux. This is rich, deeply flavored, balanced and complex, with more than enough guts and character to justify its price.
Monte Xanic Wines (Guadalupe Valley, Baja, Mexico) Cabernet Sauvignon "Calixa" 2002 ($22, Chalone/Country Vintner): With big, ripe fruit showing classic notes of blackberries, cocoa, vanilla and wood smoke, this is world-class stuff. The Cabernet Sauvignon & Merlot 2001 ($22) is just as strong and perhaps even more complex in flavor.
Hochar Pere et Fils (by Chateau Musar, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon) 2000 ($22, Broadbent Selections/Country Vintner): This perfectly mature wine features medium-bodied fruit that is pure but also complex, with soft texture and excellent balance.
Massaya (Bekaa Valley, Lebanon) Silver Selection Red 2002 ($12, Winebow): A lovely wine and a strong bargain, this shows nice plum aromas and soft, ripe fruit flavors. Texture and finish are tender and smooth, especially after a bit of airing.
