In fact, come to think of it, you'd really like Ocean City. Maybe you should go there. Forget everything I said about . . . about . . . that other place.
WAYS & MEANS
GETTING THERE: On a good day, Lewes is about three hours from the Beltway. Take U.S. 50 east across the Bay Bridge to a left on Route 404 to Georgetown. Follow Route 9 from there into Lewes.
BEING THERE: Despite its summer-season pretensions, Lewes has always been, and still is, a fishing center. Charter boats, as well as sightseeing boats and whale-watching tours, are found in the same picturesque harbor as the big commercial boats. Details: Fishermen's Wharf (302-645-8862) or Anglers Fishing Center (302-645-8688). Lewes' oldest standbys can be found at Savannah Road and Kings Highway (the Zwaanendael Museum, 302-645-1148) and downtown at the Lewes Historical Society complex (302-645-7670) and the 18th-century Cannonball House Marine Museum. You'll often encounter an unexpected blacksmithing show at tiny Preservation Forge (114 W. Third St., 302-645-7987) and next door at Auntie M's ("Antiques & Curios at Appropriate Prices," 302-644-2242). Besides the swimming, birding, biking and nature pursuits at Cape Henlopen State Park (302-645-8983, $5 a day for out-of-state cars), Lewes newcomer Rocks, Rims & Rapids (302-644-7020, www.lewes.com/RocksRimsRapids) offers kayak and bike rentals and an on-site climbing wall.
WHERE TO STAY/EAT: You'll find the traditional grown-up B&B experience at the lovely Bay Moon (302-644-1802) and central, reliable New Devon Inn (800-824-8754). Closer to the beach, the Blue Water House (800-493-2080) is certifiably less sedate and more colorful, with a casual, Caribbean feel and a peerless top-floor Lookout lounge with 360-degree view. Besides the Buttery (302-645-7755) and Gilligan's (302-645-7866), we've also heard good things about the dark-paneled, pubby but ever less stuffy Rose & Crown (302-645-2373).
DETAILS: The Lewes Chamber of Commerce and Visitors Bureau, 120 Kings Hwy., 302-645-8073, www.leweschamber.com.
Results of Escapes Trivia #13, in which we asked where one could--if one weren't so busy entering trivia contests--take a walk to the top of the country's largest conical-shaped earthen burial mound:
Brian Foreman of Laurel gets a copy of "Escape Plans" for knowing that the answer, some 2,000 years old and just 200 miles away, is in the aptly named town of Moundsville, W.Va. Experts say more than 60,000 tons of dirt were moved, mainly by woven basket, to create Grave Creek Mound, which stands 69 feet high and 295 feet in diameter and was originally surrounded by a large moat. Visitors can learn more about those models of pre-Columbian industry, the Adena people (otherwise known as the Mound Builders), at the on-site Delf Norona Museum (304-843-4128, www.wvculture.org/sites /gravecreek.html).
On to a less morbid but no less fascinating Escapes Trivia #14:
Q: What state contains more than a quarter of the Appalachian Trail?
Deadline for Contest #14 entries is noon Friday, June 2. Send entries by email (firstname.lastname@example.org; put the phrase "Escapes Trivia" in the subject field), fax (202-334-1069) or U.S. mail (Escapes Trivia, Washington Post Travel section, 1150 15th St. NW, Washington, D.C. 20071). Winners, chosen at random from among correct entries, will receive a copy of The Post's "Escape Plans" getaway guide, or other prizes as announced. One entry per person per contest. Employees of The Post are ineligible to win prizes. Entries become the property of The Post, which reserves the right to edit, distribute or republish them in any form, including electronically. Escapes Trivia questions are compiled by Amy Brecount White for The Washington Post.