What's Cooking

Variety for a picky kid, nonstick issues, beating winter blues with a wooden spoon...

Kim O'Donnel (Craig Cola - washingtonpost.com)

Calling all foodies! Join us for another edition of What's Cooking, our live online culinary hour with Kim O'Donnel.

A graduate of Peter Kump's New York Cooking School, Kim spends much of her time in front of the stove or with her nose in a cookbook.

Get sucked in by Kim's narrated slide show on making lollipops.

The transcript follows.

Get a taste of the season with What's Cooking This Fall, Kim's latest video series.

Editor's Note: Washingtonpost.com moderators retain editorial control over Live Online discussions and choose the most relevant questions for guests and hosts; guests and hosts can decline to answer questions.

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Kim O'Donnel: Hi folks,
At this point in the season, many of us are beginning to climb the walls. Winter more than half gone, but still...the crocuses not yet appearing. What do you do to bridge the seasons, keep the fire burning, without the use, say, of a light visor? Aside from taking a vacation in warmer climes, what kinds of things can one do in the kitchen that give a glimmer of hope for things to come...it's an interesting challenge. I think one of the most effective tasks is not so much WHAT you make but perhaps WITH WHOM. A small group of us got together yesterday to celebrate one fine gal, who's about to give birth for the first time. I readily volunteered to make the snacks, not so much because I wanted to control the menu but because I wanted to cook for others. The lineup was simple -- hummus, baba ghanouj, pita, cukes, stuffed grape leaves, brownies...plus our host made some zucchini soup. Again, simple stuff, but it made going out into the rain that much easier, knowing that we'd all be nibbling soon enough and that our very pregnant friend would enjoy being pampered. Anyway, I'm eager to hear your thoughts on this and other matters. I'm hosting a veggie hour this Thursday, Feb. 24 at noon.../By the way, Travel did a fun piece on vegetarian travel this weekend, so check that out, and stay tuned for tomorrow's Food section -- fun lede story on foraging for truffles in North Carolina. Let's hear it...

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Washington, DC: So I got all motivated and decided to make dal this weekend (dal with cabbage to be exact). It tastes great, but the texture is a little mealy, and the whole thing has left me with a few questions.

The recipe (from Madhur Jaffrey) called for five cups of water to 1&1/4 cups red lentils. There was WAY too much water--I had to skim a lot from the top. (I checked and Joy of Cooking used, I think, two cups water to one cup lentils.) I thought it SOUNDED like too much water, but who am I to quibble with Madhur Jaffrey about dal, right? But it really was not right. What is a good ratio for lentils to water? Is there anything I can do to rectify the mealy texture in my future dals? Did I maybe have bad lentils?

Also, slightly off the subject... Can anyone speak to a rumor I heard: that women get less gas from lentils than from other beans? (The rumor has it that something in women reacts with something in lentils and -poof- no gas. Or, rather, -no poof-.)

Kim O'Donnel: For beans or any kind of legumes, I use enough liquid to barely cover, then add as needed. Use cookbooks as a guide and make notes accordingly. As you practice, you'll find that you don't need to follow recipes to a "T" and that little things reveal themselves in the process...

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Apricots: I have an amazing recipe for an easy apricot tart, and am wondering when will I see the best apricots this year-- what is the peak season? July? Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: I'm trying to remember from last year's farm market. I'm pretty sure that apricots were coming into season by June. They are an early summer fruit, if I'm not mistaken, at least in the mid-Atlantic region...

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San Francisco, Calif.: Been meaning to submit this for a while...

For the poster a few weeks ago who doesn't like the bitterness of broccoli rabe, you have to try this recipe before you give up on it. It's really quick and easy and soooo good!

Broccoli Rabe and Orecchiette with White Bean-Anchovy Sauce (adapted from Cooks Illustrated)

Serves 4
3 tablespoons olive oil
4 chopped anchovy fillets
4 chopped garlic cloves
1 can white beans, drained and rinsed
2/3 cup chicken broth
1 pound orecchiette or short tubular pasta
1 1/2 pounds broccoli rabe (about one bunch), washed well, trimmed, and cut into ribbons
grated pecorino or parmesan cheese

Heat oil, anchovy, and garlic in skillet over low heat, stirring until anchovy dissolves, 1-2 minutes. Add beans and stock; simmer 4 to 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and cover to keep warm. Meanwhile, add 1 tablespoon salt and pasta to boiling water; cook until pasta just begins to soften, about 5 to 6 minutes. Add greens; cook until greens are wilted fully and pasta is al dente, 3 to 4 minutes longer. Reserve 1/3 cup pasta water; drain pasta and greens and return to pot. Add sauce and reserved water and cook over medium-low heat, stirring to meld flavors, about 1 minute. Adjust seasoning and top each serving with cheese.

Kim O'Donnel: Thanks for this, San Francisco. I like the idea of a little anchovy, but for those who don't, no need to sweat it. Do without...for a salty, briny thing, you could do some capers or olives instead.

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Tysons, Va.: Hi, debating whether or not I should buy a mandoline. I know you say great things about them, but my inner Rachael Ray says I should stop buying so many gadgets and suck it up and buy the global knife I really want. She apparently uses her knife rather than gadgets, and well I'm developing quite a collection albeit mostly cool oxo stuff.
So convince me either way.

Kim O'Donnel: I was just talking to a good friend yesterday about mandolines. I have a cheapie plastic number that are often found at Asian grocery stores -- and I'm talking about 20 bucks. For thin, quick slicing, it's great. Depends on how much you think you'd use. A Global knife is a terrific investment, one that will last you for years. The friend in question was making escalloped potatoes and we were talking about how useful the mandoline is for this purpose.

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Winter Blues: Hi Kim, I'm getting anxious for spring too, particularly the arrival of the summer-berries. In the meantime, I'm trying to remember to eat all those things I can't imagine eating in August. Last night was pork chops simmered in tomatoes, a touch of cream, and mushrooms -- delish, but definitely not something I'd want in the heat of summer. Tonight is butternut squash soup. Now if April would only get here a little faster! Cheers!

Kim O'Donnel: Winter squash soup sounds great on a gray day like this. In the past, I think I've mentioned doing a puree of potatoes, garlic, leeks and parsley, which gives you a little spring color to get excited about but still hearty enough to warm you up. Thanks for your ideas.

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Washington, DC: You couldn't be more right about wanting to climb the walls!; But trying to make the best of things. Went to the market this weekend, and in the midst of stocking up on staples including canned goods (job situation currently precarious, and I figure it's always good to be prepared when you can be), I came across my favorite sign of spring -- asparagus -- in the produce aisle. I've been known to plop down good money for the little lovelies in the past and then tragically let them go to waste, but they were so delicate and nice looking I had to buy. Last night, took part of the bunch, blanched and tossed with olive oil, garlic, shallots, a tomato and capellini, topped with chopped Italian parsley and parmesean. Totally easy, beautifully fresh looking, and delicious to boot. Hard to be too depressed about the gray skies after that. Thanks as always for the encouragement to keep hanging in.

Kim O'Donnel: What a great idea, dear. Thanks for your dish of inspiration.

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Rockville, MD: How to beat the winter blues? Asparagus!; I added it to a beef stir-fry on Sunday and we had it steamed with pork chops last night. Also spring greens salad with cucumbers and spring onions.

These two things really keep me going until spring. The alternative is to head over to the Bontanic Gardens for the orchid show.

Kim O'Donnel: Another vote for asparagus...and yes, salad of mixed greens is a goodie..

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Silver Spring, MD: Kim, my crocuses have been up for two weeks! Have you done enything with salt cod? I tried it a couple times, and soaked it sufficiently to get rid of the saltiness, but both times it tasted really "fishy." I wonder if maybe they don't use the freshest filets for salting? Anyway, I'm back to my usual flash-frozen wild filets from Whole Foods.

Kim O'Donnel: You know, you could soak it in milk instead to help with the intensity...

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Penn Ave, Washington, D.C.: Good afternoon Kim,

Firstly, thank you for taking my question. A few co-workers and I are going to be cooking dinner for a group of about 30 people or so at a local shelter in a few weeks. They tell us the kitchen comes fully equipped and that we will only need to bring ourselves and the ingredients for the meal. I am at a loss for what to make as I have never cooked for this large a group before. Do you, or other readers, happen to have any ideas of a complete meal that might be relatively easy & fast to make? We will most likely be heading over to the shelter after a day at the office, so keeping that in mind would be helpful too! Thanks again for any help you could give us!

Kim O'Donnel: Would like more info here -- is this for folks who live at the shelter or for other parties? Buffet or sitdown? Dietary restrictions? Money restrictions?

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Bethesda, Md.: Hi Kim

This is pretty basic...but...what's the difference (besides size) between elephant garlic and regular garlic? Is there a taste difference?

Thanks.

Kim O'Donnel: Actually, it's not a basic question at all. There remains a lot of confusion about elephant garlic. Athough a member of the same family (allium), elephant garlic is more closely related to the leek than it is to regular bulb garlic. It's much bulbier and bigger, which leads people to believe it's got a stronger flavor, but actually, it's far more mild in flavor than its counterpart.

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Washington DC: Is there any kind of online resource where I can find a listing of when particular seafoods are in season? I'd like to start cooking seafood (specifically oysters and mussels) more often but don't want to buy out of season. Thanks.

Kim O'Donnel: One place to start is Monterey Bay Aquarium's "Seafood Watch" program, which keeps an eye on species that are good ecological choices. I'm not sure if the handy printable lists include seasonal information, but it might. I'd also look at Seafood Choices Alliance, based here in DC.

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Virginia: Red dal cooks very quickly compared to urad, chana, or even mung dal. And, if you try to thicken it by cooking off the water it just disintegrates into, as you describe, a mealy mess. The recipe called for way too much water. Use less water and only cook long enough until done; it won't improve with more cooking (although leftovers can be reheated and it will be tasty).

Mung dal is probably the least gas producing, red is also easy on the tummy and urad can be so gassy it can send some people into paroxyms of digestive agony!; Asofoetida is said to counteract this. Few people use urad as pottage and most people only use it ground for steemed idlee and South Indian pancakes. I'm also told Beeno is very helpful.

Kim O'Donnel: Thanks for this first-hand report. I've never had a problem by adding just enough water to cover, and if I need more, do so, very gradually. Cheers.

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Chicago, Ill.: Kim, I am trying to feed my toddler son a varied diet but I'm starting to get frustrated. He has food allergies (dairy, nuts, and fish) and, in addition, we don't eat any red meat at our house. I don't eat poultry either and don't like to cook it, but my husband and son eat it.

My son used to be pretty good about a eating a variety of foods, but now is starting to get to the picky age. Some days he won't eat anything but tofu "hot dogs" and cookies. Some days he will only eat orange foods (carrots, squash, yams) and the next day he'll through those same foods on the floor. Other times he devours brussels sprouts, hummous, scrambled eggs, anything I give him.

My husband and I tend to eat a lot of takeout, and because we don't know what's in it with regard to the allergies, I usually end up making something different for our son. I would like the three of us to start eating the same things more often, but I don't have much time to cook. I would love any suggestions that you or other readers have.

Kim O'Donnel: Well, if you don't eat red meat and chicken is a close second, you guys sound like candidates for tofu, TVP (make your own or frozen stuff) and different kinds of pasta, including whole wheat and quinoa...It's good the kid will eat eggs and hummus and brussel sprouts...that might mean he'll take on florets of cauliflower or broccoli, which is a great thing. Squash puree? Sweet potatoes? How about black beans? Who can lend a hand here?

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Penn Ave, clarification: Thanks Kim. For clarification, we are not aware of any dietary restrictions and will be cooking for the folks who live in the shelter (men only). Dinner can be buffet and we would not like to have to spend a bundle, but will be splitting the cost between about 6 co-workers so cost definately isn't the most important issue here. We just want to make something yummy for them in the short time we have to prepare the food. Probably one hour or so. Does that help? Thanks again!;

Kim O'Donnel: Buffet dinner for 30 men, made in an about an hour. I think if you all had a job to do, this could be an interesting exercise. First thing to came to mind is to roast up a bunch of whole chickens. With the skin off, 3-4 pound birds take about 1 hour 20 minutes. While they are cooking at 400 degrees, you can make rice, veg and/or salad, even dessert. The birds would get a squeeze of lemon and good lathering of salt. Then a spice rub of coriander, cumin, cayenne, little bit of cinnamon, and some smashed garlic, mixed with a small amount of olive oil Rub all over, inside and out. With skin off, you can even press the birds down a bit. Rice could be doctored up if you want with some frozen peas, and or fresh parsley, and or toasted nuts. Veggie could be a cauliflower gratin, which would be warming and comfy. Dessert could be fruit or a big batch of brownies.

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OliveGuy (Washington, DC): For the seafood poster, it's not an online resource, but I found the Pike Place Market Seafood cookbook a great way to educate myself about cooking seafood at home. It's chock-full of good info. I buy mussels year-round by the bag at whole foods, with no discernable difference in quality. For reasons related to the oysters reproductive cycle, there is something to the old-wives' tale about eating them only in an "R" month (the quality is -drastically- better). Again, I get my oysters for home prep at Whole Foods-- great in winter, definitely not so good in the summer.

Kim O'Donnel: Great idea, Olive. This also brings to mind a book that came out last year, "One fish, two fish, crawfish, bluefish" by Carole Baldwin and Julie Mounts, from Smithsonian. Terrific resource.

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Alexandria, VA: For the chatter serving 30 at a local shelter, lasagna is always a good bet, especially using the oven ready noodles.

You can make traditional lasagna with meat sauce and/or a veggie lasagna.

Serve it up with some garden salad and garlic bread, and you're good to go!;

Kim O'Donnel: Thanks for your thoughts!

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Clifton, VA: Have been to the new Wegman's twice in past week. Prices beat the Giant. Quality is much higher than the Giant. When was the last time you saw frsh shucked peas? had to buy them. They had fresh shrimp and dry scallops. Just sauted the shrimp and scallops and served with the peas and some tomatoes with parmesan and basil. Had a nice VA chardonnay to go with it. Not to oaky and did not overpower the shellfish. Wine was from Prince Michel.

Kim O'Donnel: Nice report, Clifton.

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NY, NY: I recently invested in my first, quality chef's knife (Wusthof) and am wondering the best way to take care of it. How should I wash it? Is it ok to dry with a towel or will that gradually dull the blade? If I let it air-dry is that bad for the metal?

Kim O'Donnel: Congratulations, New York. Hope you bought a sharpening steel to go with. That will help keep the edge, until it's time to get it sharpened and reshaped. Hand wash --no dishwasher, and dry with a towel.

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RE: Picky Kid: Can you send me your kid and I'll send you mine? She hasn't eaton a vegetable since getting off of baby foods and refuses to do so right now. I wish I had your problem.

Kim O'Donnel: Thoughts for Mom...

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Washington, D.C.: I love the taste of a meatloaf recipe that I use often, but it is pretty crumbly. What's the ratio of meat/egg/bread that I should use for a firmer meatloaf? This recipe also calls for mixing catsup in the meatloaf, love the flavor but wonder if the added liquid makes the meatloaf more crumbly? Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: Hmmm...I think too much of those binders can make for a cement loaf, so be careful. You can even try the binding quality of egg white if you want to do without the fat from the yolk, but I wouldn't do more than one for 1 pound of meat. I'd add bread crumbs gradually, and mix as you go, see how it's holding together. As for ketchup, a little will go a long way in terms of flavor, so don't stress it. I actually use a bit of olive oil in my ground meat for meat loaf, salt, pepper, maybe some chopped garlic, and occsionally an egg white. That's it.

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Baltimore, Md.: For the toddler with food allergies, have you offered him Boca burgers, brown rice, corn? Steamed veggies with melted soy cheese might appeal to him. How about a simple quesadilla with soy cheese?

Kim O'Donnel: Nice ideas. Good stuff.

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Eating with Allergies: My brother has severe eczema and allergies to wheat, eggs, dairy, nuts, etc. He, too, basically grew up eating a handful of meals and foods. You can do some fun stuff with rice, too. We are an Asian family, so it was always a lot of meat (substitute tofu product here), veggie, and rice combinations. Good luck...it's such a struggle. Definitely consult with his physician to make sure he's getting proper nutrition.

Kim O'Donnel: Encouraging words...thanks for your efforts.

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Germantown, Md.: For the mom with the picky eater...it's the same way in our
house, with my two year old daughter. Here are some
things that always work:

Pasta with red sauce. I usually sneak some spinach into
the sauce, some mushrooms, and meat (soy crumbles
work well, too)
Chili with (soy) cheese on top
Cereal and milk with a banana or pancakes and (soy)
sausages (breakfast for dinner is exciting)
Mac and cheese
Rice

I also try to keep a good supply of fruits and veggies
(spinach, carrots, cucumbers, cauliflower and broccoli) on
hand that she can dip into some kind of sauce. And fresh
fruits for her to snack on.

Kim O'Donnel: More great ideas for Mom...

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Rockville, MD: Kim, I can't wait for spring and neither can my cats!; (Kitty TV reception is MUCH better on the balcony) I have a mandoline and rarely use it because it is so darn sharp that I really can't finish off anything without using my knife for fear of nasty cuts, which has happened enough for me to whip out the food processor for making scalloped anything...

Kim O'Donnel: Well, should you decide to break it out again, use a towel to help act as a buffer, and keep fingers/thumbs on top of the object you're slicing to keep as far from blade as possible...

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RE: Wegmans and peas: Has anyone else seen fresh peas? I don't live near a Wegman's and that post got me CRAVING fresh peas (even if they are out of season)...Trader Joes? Whole Foods? Anywhere in Montgomery County?

Kim O'Donnel: I've not seen fresh peas yet. They will be here as weather starts to warm...

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food mystery: Kim - I know baking is not your forte, but can you help? Why is it that when I make a yellow cake from scratch, it always comes out too dense, or grainy or crumbly, but when I make a stupid box cake, it comes out perfectly moist and well-textured every time? Does anyone out there have a homemade "box" cake recipe for yellow-cake? BTW, I do consider baking my forte, and I'm good about accurately measuring flour, sifting all the dry ingredients, not overmixing the batter and not overbaking. But my end result is never that good. But in spite of the great moistness and texture of the box cake, the flavor is never really good either. It always has that came-from-a-factory taste. I guess I'm looking for the holy grail of yellow-cake recipes. Easy & yummy.

Kim O'Donnel: I find that whenever I make a layer cake with buttermilk it tastes wonderful. I will put out a few trusted numbers this week and get them ready for you when you e'mail me for details.

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Re: meatloaf: Instead of using breadcrumbs, my grandmother used to put in Quaker oatmeal as a binder, along with the egg -- a little extra fiber....

Kim O'Donnel: Interesting...this sounds British in origin...

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Rockville, Md.: I bought myself a food processor for Valentine's Day (Yea!;) and was wondering if you, or any of the chatters, could share favorite recipes using that type of equipment? I already searched the archives and found your hummus recipe and it looks "fab!;" Dips, marinades, spreads; I'm open to all ideas.

Kim O'Donnel: Hummus takes all of five minutes in the processor...and the baba ghanouj I mentioned earlier, that went into the processor as well. Roast halved eggplants at 400 and let them cook until absolutely tender inside, even almost charred. Scrape out the flesh and put in a bowl with a smashed garlic clove and salt. Add juice of 1/2 lemon and 1 tablespoon of tahini. Throw everything into processor and whiz. YOu may need an ounce of water. Taste for salt, lemon. Done.

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Cheap Eats: Due to a desire to eat well for less, I have taken on a challenge to shop sales, search for better quality food for less, etc. Obviously, couponing doesn't help when you are searching for less processed and healtier foods. So... any suggestions about places to shop for inexpensive meats? Specifically, I was wondering if shopping somewhere like Grand Mart would be a good idea. I have never been to one and was wondering what the food is like in there.

Kim O'Donnel: Eggs are a less expesive animal protein option. Don't forget the undervalued egg. YOu can buy meat for less at large ethnic groceries, no question. I can't vouch for the quality. And if you're looking to cut costs, the big Korean grocers will save you lots of money of fresh produce.

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Pot Roast Leftovers...: We made a great pot roast last night - served with noodles, which is what is getting me through the end of winter, but now I want to make a soup with the leftovers - maybe a beef vegetable and incorporate the leftover noodles - ideas for something that takes less than an hour to put together and cook - well stocked kitchen and anything I don't have I can stop and get on the way home! Thanks in advance. I always love the chats...

Kim O'Donnel: The problem here is that no stock on the fly is going to measure the flavor of the meat that you so lovingly braised....were you thinking of shredding the meat and just adding on top of broth? Talk to me.

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Arlington, VA: My new favorite cookbook is the Gourmet Slow Cooker by Lynne Alley. I love my crockpot, but there is only so much chili/stew/pot roast that one person can take. I made Indian chicken curry the other night, and it was fantastic. Just wanted to share!;

Kim O'Donnel: Thanks. I know there are a lot of crock pot lovers out there...

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Boston, Ma.: For the bean-conscious, I find that the age of dried lentils or beans makes the water content differ greatly -- older beans are drier and absorb more water (maybe different if you're in a humid climate?). I usually do water to cover and add more boiling water if it all evaporates.

Kim O'Donnel: Great point, Boston. Thanks for you tidbits.

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Frederick, Md.: Kim, I've tried all types f fish, but I've found that only tilapia is the only fish that I like. I usually just throw it in the toaster oven and bake it a bit, but what an I throw on the fish to give it a little pep? Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: Okay, Frederick. First thing: is a toaster oven the only tool at your disposal, or are there other options? If you've got a stovetop, Tilapia is nice breaded or rolled in cornmeal, or even some pulverized nuts, then lightly sauteed. A little cayenne, salt, garlic powder, thyme add some flavor. Holler if you can.

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More Winter Bliss (I mean blues)...: I had one of those experimental, have to clean out the fridge moments, so I did this:
Peeled, sliced and roasted the butternut squash
Sauteed the leeks
Threw them in a baking dish with smoked mozzarella
Topped with parmesan breadcrumbs.

I had no idea if it would work, but yum!;

Kim O'Donnel: Yeah, that kind of extemporaneous thing can happen in the kitchen. Doncha love it? Thanks for your little tale of inspired wisdom.

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novice cook 22101: Just bought two circulon total nonstick pots (one is an everything pot (looks like a cross between a wok and a saute pan), the other is a casserole pot).
So now I'm trying to figure out what is okay to cook without oil (could I try pancakes, saute mushrooms, other veggies) other ideas? I don't cook with butter or cream etc because I'm allergic to it. Thanks!;

Kim O'Donnel: My feeling about nonstick is that even a little fat helps. I know, what's the point then? But I think it goes a long way. Perhaps a canola oil spray would be useful in your case. Who can chime in on this matter?

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Pot roast leftovers...(Again): We made a broth-like sauce that it roasted in (a new recipe that turned out pretty well) - so there is a fair amount of broth. There is not a TON of meat left (or else we would just eat it again) - so I was thinking of a beefy vegetable soup - but not too sure how to proceed. Shredding the beef in the soup for sure.

Kim O'Donnel: Ok, you could enhance (or rather, expand upon) that yummy broth...here are couple of ideas...slice up a bunch of onions very thin, and cook them in a pot, with some herbs, let them soften...add some wine. then add your broth. Add some whole canned tomatoes. Let that simmer for a while...at end, add your noodes, your shredded beef...

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Circulon pans: We registered for these and I swear by them - I have found that, except for flavor, you really don't have to use oil or butter (I know you are allergic) for anything - I have never had ANYTHING stick to these pans. I will second the canola oil spray suggestion though - just for a little flavor.

Kim O'Donnel: Thanks for your first-hand report on these pans. Cheers.

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Boston, Mass: For the non-sticker, I definitely always use a little bit of oil. I have an old-fifties style electric stove that is poorly calibrated, so when it gets hot it gets REALLY REALLY HOT, and I've had bad experiences with things irrevocably burning on to the nonstick (I'd use steel wool, but I know it scratches nonstick), and at the highest temperatures, the pans give off a chemically odor. All this can be avoided, or at least ameliorated with a little oil.

Kim O'Donnel: More useful tidbits on what to do with a nonsticker...

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fish additions: Make a little pan sauce with butter, lemon juice, capers.
Slowly heat a little sour cream and flavor with horseradish
or mustard, maybe a dash of cayenne. Lots of easy things
to do -- olive oil and olives, tomatoes, etc.

Kim O'Donnel: Fun ideas. I hope we hear back from the fish eater...

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for novice re non-stick: Use a little oil for flavor, the benefit of non-stick is the
clean-up. But it's possible to do without -- use a little
stock for sweating veggies, or even water.

Kim O'Donnel: And one more for the road on nonstick. Well done!
Okay, time to run. Meat-free set please join me on Thursday, Feb. 24 at noon; otherwise, I'll catch you next time, as we get closer to MARCH! All best.

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