Less known to first-time visitors are the spicy fish stews, dumpling dishes and beef and vegetable casseroles. At Todam Village, a 1900s-style Korean tavern with a water wheel in the center of the dining room, hand-size octopus is sliced with scissors, at the table, into a bubbling wok of fragrant shellfish stew studded with chunks of fresh tofu.
Visit casual Seoul Soondae restaurant, at the center of Seoul Plaza shopping center, for sausage stuffed with rice, rice noodles and beef blood. Such sausage shares the plate with sliced pig's ear, liver, heart and tongue. That's Seoul food.
A sushi platter by chef Sung Kim at Sorak Garden.
(Lois Raimondo - The Washington Post)
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If pig's ear does not please, there are dishes that will appeal to just about everyone. On an initial foray to Koreatown, less adventurous palates can try kal bi--marinated and grilled beef short ribs and jap chae--clear rice noodles tossed with sliced beef and vegetables. Sengsun is lightly battered fried flounder. For dessert, drop by a Koreatown bakery.
Le Matin de Paris, a beautiful bakery that produces both European-style and traditional Korean baked goods, opened in May. Against peach and violet-colored walls are self-serve counters for fresh sweet rolls, pan breads and pastries. Samples are available of the light, corn sponge bread and an intriguing teal-colored herbal sponge bread. Kids will like Korean pizza--an open-face pastry topped with sliced hot dog, peas, corn and cheese that is drizzled with ketchup. Stunning cakes are displayed in a showcase in front of an open kitchen.
Some of the breads and cakes available at Le Matin appear to be similar to those found in any good bakery. But there are differences in texture and taste. "We use less sugar than Americans," says co-owner Helen Park, who has a staff of 10 bakers and sales assistants. Flour is imported from Korea, says Park, because, "We have to have just the right flour or the cake is not soft when you put it in your mouth."
Next door to Park's stylish bakery is an excellent source for traditional rice snacks. The Lee family makes and sells soft, chewy, milled and steamed rice that is shaped in various ways--logs, balls, cakes. Some look like ravioli. They are topped or stuffed with bean powder, dried mung beans, dates, raisins or ground black sesame seeds. The Lees make terrific kimchi and nice dumplings filled with beef, tofu and vegetables.
One problem. From the outside, the Lees' Annandale Catering bears no resemblance to a retail store. Windows are covered with rice paper. Inside the lighting is dim. Most people would pass by this business.
"It's a different look. That's true. You have to come in to see what we have," says co-owner Charles Lee. His mother, Chaesun Lee, started the rice cake business at another location 20 years ago. Next year, he says, "We're remodeling and changing the signs out front to attract more American business."
Signs that do not offer an English translation are a major Koreatown issue. Ask Kurt Kruger.
"I'm from the Lower East Side of New York. I look forward to seeing exotic places. But people want to see signs in English," says Kruger, who has operated Kruger's Antiques in downtown Annandale--Koreatown--for 20 years.
Many Koreans agree. "Americans don't know what we are selling without English signs and English menus," says Howard Park, co-owner of Le Matin de Paris bakery, "We want everyone to feel welcome."
WHAT'S IN THE LITTLE BOWLS?
No Korean meal would be complete without a series of panchan -- assorted side dishes spread about the table. Order an entree at a restaurant, six or more such dishes are brought, free of charge, to complement the main dish. One is always kimchi -- spicy pickled cabbage. Others may be seasoned vegetables, fermented legumes, preserved fish or sometimes seaweed. The size of the selection can depend on the cost of the entree as well as the benevolence of the chef. Here are some of the popular panchan served at Sorak Garden restaurant in Annandale.
Steamed garlic stems.
Pickled daikon radish with carrot.
Dried anchovy and shrimp.
Marinated peppers.
Seasoned seaweed.
Pollock roe with garlic and pine nuts.
Salted jellyfish with crab meat and vegetables in honey mustard sauce.
Spicy whole daikon radish with spinach.
Kimchi -- spicy marinated cabbage.
Pickled garlic bulb.
Stir-fried sweet potato stems.
Marinated sesame leaf with roasted garlic.
