GETTING AROUND: You'll need a rental car. We rented our manual car from Dan Dooley Car Hire (800-331-9301, www.dan-dooley.ie), but the major rental agencies are all available. For four days, we paid less than $250, including insurance.
The M1 highway between Dublin and Belfast is similar to a U.S. interstate, but the secondary roads can be crowded and slow. Crossing the border between the Irish Republic and Northern Ireland is like going from one state to another: no hassles. But you'll need pounds sterling in Northern Ireland and euros for the Irish Republic.
In Northern Ireland, not even an impending storm can drive off golfers at the classic Royal Portrush Golf Club.
(David Cannon/Getty Images)
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WHERE TO STAY: The Nuremore Hotel (011-353-42-966-1438, www.nuremore-hotel.ie), near 20 Harbour Road, Carnlough, is a handsome resort that caters more to Irish vacationers than to foreign travelers. The country setting, challenging golf course, friendly staff and excellent restaurant make it an ideal getaway. A midweek two-night package, including breakfasts and dinners, costs about $250 per person. Dinner at the restaurant begins at about $60 per person, not including wine.
We also liked the Londonderry Arms Hotel (20 Harbour Rd., 011-353-48- 2888-5255, www.glensofantrim.com), in the small fishing village of Carnlough on the Antrim Coast Road, between Portrush and Belfast. The Georgian-style hotel was built in 1848 and was once owned by Winston Churchill. Rooms are $160 double per night, including a full Irish breakfast.
WHERE TO EAT: For lunch or supper in Drogheda, try the Weavers on West Street, near St. Peter's Church. The Irish pub serves great steak and fries in a convivial family atmosphere and features local musicians playing traditional music.
GOLF COURSES: We visited Royal Portrush (Dunluce Road, 011-353-48- 7082-2311, www.royalportrushgolfclub.com), County Louth Golf Club (011-353- 41-988-1530, www.countylouthgolfclub.com) in Baltray and Nuremore Hotel and Country Club.
Tee times can be expensive, ranging from $100 to $400, depending on the course and the exchange rate. World-renowned clubs, such as Portrush, also serve their members first, so reserve at least six to eight months in advance -- though last-minute openings are possible. You are well advised to bring a handicap card and a letter of introduction from your club. We were not asked -- in fact our pro shop experience could not have been more relaxed -- but you never know when a club might exercise its policy of checking guests' credentials.
ST. OLIVER'S SHRINE: The shrine to Saint Oliver Plunkett is in St. Peter's Church on West Street in Drogheda. Besides the reliquary, there are other artifacts from his life, including the door from his prison cell. A history, "Until the Storm Passes," is available for a small donation.
INFORMATION: Tourism Ireland, 800-223-6470, www.tourismireland.com, or Northern Ireland Tourist Board, 011-44-28-9024-6609, www.discovernorthernireland.com.
-- Oliver B. Patton
