What's Cooking

Cracking eggs, cold versus hot pizza stones, olive oil sightings...

Kim O'Donnel (Craig Cola - washingtonpost.com)

Calling all foodies! Join us for another edition of What's Cooking, our live online culinary hour with Kim O'Donnel.

A graduate of Peter Kump's New York Cooking School, Kim spends much of her time in front of the stove or with her nose in a cookbook.

Get sucked in by Kim's narrated slide show on making lollipops.

The transcript follows.

Get a taste of the season with What's Cooking This Fall, Kim's latest video series.

Editor's Note: Washingtonpost.com moderators retain editorial control over Live Online discussions and choose the most relevant questions for guests and hosts; guests and hosts can decline to answer questions.

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Kim O'Donnel: Hi there:
It was a glorious weekend here in Washington, and I took advantage of all the sunshine and got on my bike. Rode over to Dupont Circle farm market and checked to see what's coming from the soil these days. There are lots of leafy greens, like watercress, baby kale, arugula, plus leeks, green garlic, green onions (scallions)...And speaking of green, there's a reason to take a road trip this weekend, if you're not doing anything this Saturday, April 16.
The town of Richwood, West Va. is celebrating the ramp, otherwise known as a wild leek. Festivities begin around 9:30, but eating time, a chance to sample ramps, is around 11 a.m. For details, call 304/846-6790 or check Websites:
www.richwooders.com or www.richwoodwv.com
Ramps are indigenous to Appalachian woodlands, and Richwood is where the Monongahela National Forest begins, so you can imagine this is RAMP COUNTRY. It's about a 5 hour drive, so plan accordingly.
Culinary history buffs should check out an event next Wed., April 20, hosted by the Library of Congress.
Laura Schenone will be reading from her new book, "A Thousand Years Over a Hot Stove: A History of American Women Told Through Food, Recipes and Remembrances," followed by a book signing. There also will be 300 cookbooks on display, all from LOC's collection. Things get started at 11:30 a.m., at the LOC's James Madison Memorial Building, 101 Independence Ave., SE. Be there or be a stewed tomato.
Anyway, let's get started. I have to dash out about 5 minutes early today, so sorry for that in advance. Oh! By the way, next Monday, April 18, noon, cookbook author Sheilah Kaufman will be taking your questions on Passover cooking. Details to come soon.

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Arlington, Va.: Kim, last week a chatter asked about how to tell if a mango is ripe. You gave them good advice, but I find that the TYPE of mango you buy is even more important. Most major supermarkets carry large round mangoes which never get honey-sweet no matter how long you let them ripen. But many Asian and Latino specialty markets in the area carry another kind I like much better. These have a slightly asymmetrical shape (depending on which way you hold them, they look like plump commas or apostrophes) and with a few days in the kitchen to ripen they become far sweeter than the supermarket variety--well worth the wait!

Kim O'Donnel: Thanks for chiming in, Arlington. There are several hundred varieties of mangoes, and we in the US only get a glimpse of a few. I'm pretty sure the one you're referring to comes from Mexico. I just had one myself, and agree, ripened very quickly.

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Miami, FL: Why do you need three bowls when seperating more than one egg?

Kim O'Donnel: Hi Miami:
You don't need three bowls, but two may help -- one for the whites, one for the yolks. Who said you need three?

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Taco Salad follow-up: Kim -- last week's submitter about baking a tortilla shell on 450 really intrigued me. I'd like to try it tonight. But what else goes in a taco salad besides lettuce and salsa? I'm not really interested in beef or chicken, I'm wondering what's the best way to make black beans? It's probably a simple question, but I'm at a loss!; Thank you!;

Kim O'Donnel: For quickie black beans, you can do the following: chop 1/2 onion and fresh chile to taste. Cook in some oil, then add 1 can of black beans. Stir to combine, then add dried oregano and cumin. Taste for seasoning.
Fresh cilantro is nice in a taco salad, chopped fresh red pepper, shredded cheese, a squeeze of lime, rice too.

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Alexandria, Va.: I have been having such a great success with Middle Eastern food recently. If on the weekend I whip up tabbouli, hummus, baba ghanouj, yogurt cheese, and naan or pita bread I can eat great for the week no problem. I realy love the recipes in Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone! Yum.

Kim O'Donnel: I agree, a few of these cold items can last a few days, and you've got a feast to look forward too throughout the week. Deborah Madison has a new book out called "Vegetarian Suppers" which is also work a look see...

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Columbia, MD: Hi Kim, I'm trying to focus on eating what's good and fresh and in season - which is easy at local markets. But in the supermarket, where tomatoes and strawberries are available year-round, it's a lot harder for me to figure out what's best in which season? Is there some kind of a resource for me to find this all out? Or do you have any handy hints? I'm tired of hoping that stawberries will be good, only to taste nothing when I bite into a big juicy red one, or having a mushy, flavorless tomato. What's a girl to do?

Kim O'Donnel: The best way to learn what's in season, as you hint at, is to hit your local farm market. Supermarkets tend to have everything all the time, and so it becomes a big produce blur (not to mention those flavorless strawberries). "Eating Fresh" is a cookbook devoted to the crops of the Mid-Atlantic, with lots of seasonally-based recipes, as well as tips on what's growing when. But if you can, go to the farm market. That's your best teacher.

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Bethesda, Md.: I can't find this in any of my cookbooks or cooking tips books: How do you know when tofu is cooked? I cut it into small cakes for stir fry and kind of stir it around for a while, and no one has gotten sick yet. But is it supposed to change color? Is its texture supposed to change? Or is it something that doesn't really have to be cooked, just heated? Thanks for answering my ignorant question.

Kim O'Donnel: Tofu is a ready-to-eat item out of the package, but tends to taste a whole lot better when you season it and heat it up. Unlike with meat, you don't need to be as concerned with the internal temperature, but it is a perishable product, lasting only a few days after opened. Pan-frying tofu will give it a golden color, and yes, it will crisp up if your pan is hot enough. Don't worry; there's never an ignorant question. Keep asking.

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Upstate NY: Regarding 3 bowls for separating an egg: some people use 3 bowls if they don't trust their egg cracking ability. They use the first bowl to separate the white, then plop the yolk into the second bowl, then (if the white was successfully separated without any traces of yolk) they put the white into the third bowl and use the first bowl again for separating the next egg. That way, if your separating a bunch of eggs, you don't ruin the whole batch of whites by getting a speck of yolk in the last one.

Kim O'Donnel: Okay. But if you crack egg, hold yolk in clean hand, let white drip out into bowl, then you can put yolk in second bowl, eliminating need for third bowl, right?

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Arlington, VA: Hi Kim!; I used my ice cream maker to whip up some pear sorbet the other day on the spur of the moment - and it was fantastic. Now I'm jonesing to do some other sorbets - got any ideas? I'm thinking watermelon, canteloup, raspberry, or lime. But is there anything I can do that includes a fruit and an herb of some sort, once I master the basics? Thanks!;

Kim O'Donnel: well...lemongrass is a lot of fun in things like sorbet...lemon and lavender is lovely...lemon and basil, watermelon and basil..

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Cleveland Park, Washington, DC: A very belated Thank You! I had asked some time ago for soy-related recipies that might help my mom get through menopause. I was home visiting her this past weekend, and she LOVED the soy-chocolate pudding and has been eating it every day (and its helping!). Also, she made lasagna and substituted tofu for half of the ricotta -- not only was it good, but my dad said it was better than the all-cheese kind (an amazing endorsement from a man who is 100% meat and potatos). So THANK YOU to everyone who offered advice!

Kim O'Donnel: It's a very savvy bunch here...glad they were able to help, and I'm so glad your mom is working her way through the mud...

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Cambridge, MA : Hi -- for some reason my pizzas are not cooking on the bottom and thru the middle. I use a stone and cook at 400. I put tem on lowest rack and the oven seems to be fine. The top gets very brown but the bottom is not crispy the way I like it. Not sure if pre-heating the stone would help, but it seems like getting the dough on and spreading it on the hot stone would be dangerous!; Thanks!;

Kim O'Donnel: 500 degrees. Preheat it at least 20 minutes before you're ready to go. Yes, preheating the stone will help...many folks like to use a peel to transfer pizza to hot stone...if this is not possible, don't stress. Transfer pizza onto stone (not heated)...just as long as oven is preheated.

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"Eating Fresh" cookbook: Kim, do you know who the author is? I just tried to find this on Amazon, and I'm not 100% sure I have the right book.

Kim O'Donnel: Pam Mcmanus and Wendy Rickard. They've got a Web site, too. eatingfresh.com, I think...

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DC-Area: Ok - if there are no dumb questions, what is the difference between baking and roasting? Is it just that roasting involves meat?

Kim O'Donnel: Pretty much, yes. With meat, some moisture or steam will be produced as a result of the dry heat, whereas with a cake or bread, that won't happen. But yes, oven cooking involves dry heat, whether it's baking or roasting.

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Washington, DC: Does anyone have any advice on where to buy different types of olive oils in the area? Not different flavors, but just really high quality oils from different countries or regions. I'd like to put together an olive oil tasting for some friends. Thanks very much!;

Kim O'Donnel: Whole Foods has a good variety, both in price range and origin. Dean & Deluca also is a good bet. Who else has olive oily thoughts?

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Arlington, VA: Ever wish you had a web cam in your pantry so when you're planning dinner during the day you could just log on and check out which spices or other items you have on hand? I have no idea if I have sage at home for making stuffing tonight.

Kim O'Donnel: Gee, if I had a Web cam in the kitchen, it would remind me to mop the floor, or maybe I'd even see the mouse hanging out underneath my sink...

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Mount Pleasant, DC: Help!; Boyfriend's birthday is Thursday and I need a festive but portable dessert idea for two that I can quickly whip up after work (in an hour or less) or throw together the night before.

Muchos gracias!;

Kim O'Donnel: This morning, I made a batch of lemon curd (yes, I know I'm insane), but I was reminded how easy it is, and yes, it can be done in advance. You could spoon it over pound cake or yummy biscuits/scones...the curd takes about 45 minutes total, and you could transport the curd, as long as it stays cold...berries on top would be nice too.

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Olive Oil: Lebanese Taverna store in VA as a unique selection and Trader Joe also seem to have a whole bunch.

Kim O'Donnel: Yes, thanks for adding on...

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Reston, VA: Um, pizza on a cold stone in a preheated oven is worse than pizza on a sheet pan in a preheated oven---the stone will take a long time to heat up and will be cold still while the top of the pizza is baking.

The best way of course is a stone that's pre-heated but if you don't want to do that, a sprayed metal sheet is best.

Kim O'Donnel: Thanks. I cook my pizza on the bottom of a baking sheet. I don't preheat the baking sheet and have no problems, but it's not made of stone, as you remind us.

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Re. pizza stone: I think there's a danger of the stone cracking if it's put cold into a hot oven. Plus, I think the stone has to be hot to get the bottom crispy like you want it. I now have a peel, but have also used an inverted cookie sheet dusted with cornmeal to slide the pizza onto the stone - jiggle the pizza before you put it in the oven to make sure it's not stuck. You do have to work quickly, but I think using a hot stone is worth it.

Kim O'Donnel: More on the pizza stoning...

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Re: Olive Oils: Wegman's is amazing in its variety of oils -- flavors and quality.

Kim O'Donnel: Excellent. And my producer Miz B reminds me of the excellent oil selection at Mediterranean Bakery in Alexandria.

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Olive Oil: Italian Store in Arlington; Trader Joe's.

Kim O'Donnel: More olio sightings...

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Baking vs. Roasting: I think Roasting is also done at higher temps. E.g., 350 is baking, 450 is roasting.

Kim O'Donnel: Temperature doesn't necessarily define roasting versus baking. For example, you can roast a chicken at 350, 375, and you can bake cookies at this temp. as well.

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Olive Oil Selection: Italian Store in Arlington and Litteri's in DC both have nice selections...

Kim O'Donnel: More good olio notes...

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Olive Oil: Balducci's (? it used to be Sutton Place) in McLean has a huge olive oil selection.

Kim O'Donnel: And more...

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How do you make that Lemon Curd you mentioned?: It sounds yummy. Thanks.

Kim O'Donnel: For 1 cup of the stuff, you need:
4 egg yolks, 1/2 stick butter, juice and zest of 3 lemons, 3/4 cup sugar. This would be enough for drizzling over pound cake, etc.
For filling a tart shell, you need to double recipe.
Put everything into a heavy saucepan and keep heat on low-medium. Constantly stir, up to 1/2 hour. You'll notice change in color (from orangey to yellow) and texture (from liquid to almost hollandaise). But you've got to keep stirring or whisking to keep eggs from scrambling. When you've got a nice thick streak on the back of a spoon (I like mine thick) you pour through a sieve and immediately cover with plastic wrap. Cool and keep in fridge for up to a few weeks. But it's hard to ignore, as it's so darn zesty.

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Pizza Stone: I've had good success with preheating the stone and then transferring dough that I've spread out onto it. Then I assemble the pizza while it's on the hot stone. I've seen some recipes that suggest leaving pizza on a hot stone for 5 minutes before dunking in the oven to crisp up the crust.

Kim O'Donnel: Thanks for your first-hand report. appreciate itl.

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Silver Spring, MD: Stupid question: What's a "peel"?

Kim O'Donnel: Told ya there's no such thing as a stupido...a peel is a tool used to transport pizza from work area to oven...

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Fairfax, VA: Hey, Kim--How long can homemade lemon curd keep in the fridge? (I, too, made some about a week and a half ago and the leftovers are begging for scones; I'm pregnant and a bit scared of potentially spoiled foods!;)

Kim O'Donnel: As I mentioned, it'll keep for a few weeks, as long as it's been stored in airtight container. You're fine.

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Re: Mount Pleasant: An even easier dessert would be strawberry shortcake. Take some strawberries, cut them up and mix with sugar. Let that sit for a while (even overnight) so it gets all syrupy. Place on store-bought poundcake or biscuits and top with whipped cream. You could then sprinkle with some sliced strawberries, blueberries, raspberries. Get all fancy by putting those dots of whipped cream that restaurants do - or drizzle with a strawberry sauce.

The strawberries could go in a Tupperware-type container and then the rest is already in portable containers.

Kim O'Donnel: Thanks for your ideas...

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Novice Cook: Hi! I'd like to make taco salad for my sister's birthday dinner. Last week a poster submitted a way to make a baked shell. "Invert a small oven proof bowl on a baking sheet. Drape a flour tortilla over the bowl. Lightly spray with non stick cooking spray and bake at 450 until crisp". I'm confused. Do I spray the bowl before draping the tortilla, or the outside of the tortilla after it is draped over the bowl? By cooking spray, does this mean that stuff called Pam? Thanks for your help. My sis loves Mexican food and I love her and hope to make her a mucho bueno muy bien dinner!

Kim O'Donnel: Hey, take it easy. I'm sure if you spray before you bake you'll be in business. Now, a few deep breaths...

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Boyfriend Dessert: How about famous chocolate wafer cake? Delicious and you can make ahead of time.

1. Whip cream.
2. Spread cream on Famous Chocolate Wafers and stick them together to make a log.
3. Cover whole log with whipped cream.
4. Refrigerate at least 4 hours, or freeze for at least 2.
5. Slice on the bias and enjoy it.

You can flavor the whipped cream if you like.

Kim O'Donnel: There was a Food section story about this American fave last year, if I recall...

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DC-Area: I have some fresh asparagus that I want to make as a side dish for dinner tonight. What is a quick and easy way to prepare it? It will be going along side tilapia...

Kim O'Donnel: Asparagus is wonderful so many ways, part of its charm. You can roast it (ha! we're roasting not baking), at about 400 degrees, with a healthy spritz of olive oil, salt and pepper. Cook until fork tender. A little lemon zest is nice after it comes out of oven. Sprinkle some parm.

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Lemon curd fan: Do you have a recipe for lemon curd that you could share, Kim? or perhaps one of the chatters does? I love the idea that I could make it myself...

Kim O'Donnel: Just shared those notes...check them out.

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Novice Cook: Me again. Oh boy, that lemon curd sounds fantastic. I make a dynamite chocolate pound cake - think the lemon would go well spooned over that? Or would that be too rich?

Kim O'Donnel: I think lemon curd is fab on a spoon by its lonesome...so yes, go for it.

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New Market, Maryland: I am new to vegetarian cooking and am looking for good resources and recipes for Tofu. I have quickly learned about "Gimme Lean" and other readily available soy products but would welcome any ideas from veteran vegetarian cooks.

I have become a regular at the Frederick Common Market, but am looking for other grocery sources.

Thanks!;

Kim O'Donnel: Hey New Market, join me the last Thursday of the month, when I do my (usually scheduled) monthly veggie hour. This month, April 27, noon. Gimme Lean is a tasty product, I agree. For books, check on those by Jeanne Lemlin, Deborah Madison, Peter Berley, Robin Robertson, for starters. Lots of ideas on tofu and other meatless treats.

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Vienna, VA: Hi Kim!; I made an asparagus quiche a few weeks ago, cut it into slices, and froze each slice individually wrapped in foil and a ziploc sandwich bag. Do frozen foods ever go bad, or will the quiche slices be ok indefinitely?

Kim O'Donnel: Vienna, first thing: Freezing something does not suspend food in time and protect it indefinitely from aging. It only prolongs its so-called shelf life. Quiche is eggy and may have dairy. This means it's not going to last as long in freezer as other things. I'd use it up within a few weeks.

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Taco Shell: "If you spray before you bake, you'll be in business" What do I spray? The bowl or the tortille?

Kim O'Donnel: Ack. I dunno. I didn't supply the recipe, it came from a reader. I think to spray the tortilla; the bowl is just used to prop it up...I think.

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Washington, DC: Homemade pizza with fresh veggies, pineapple, and bacon. I made the dough ahead & froze a bunch, makes for a fairly easy dinner to put together if you thaw the dough in the fridge while at work!;

Kim O'Donnel: Yes, pizza dough is quite handy in that regard. YOu can also make dough night before, put in fridge, and make pizza the next day.

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Baking Dillema: A co-worker of mine is having a birthday tomorrow I want to bake her something (cookies, muffins, scones, etc.) Any great ideas or inspirations? I just want to be more creative than oatmeal raisin, chocolate chip, or peanut butter cookies. I welcome any suggestions. Thanks!;

Kim O'Donnel: So, a breakfast item, then...or are you still pondering? A coffee cake is fun, as it's breakfasty but can be appreciated throughout the day.

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Washington, D.C.: I don't remember if it was the food section, or Cooks Illustrated, but someone rated Goya olive oil as a good brand.

Kim O'Donnel: It may have been both. Thanks for the reminder.

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Washington, DC: Hi Kim - Quick baking question: can you clarify the differences between the different types of flour called for in recipes? If it calls for self-rising, is okay to use all-purpose? Do I really need 3-4 different bags of flour taking up precious shelf space? Thanks!;

Kim O'Donnel: I am bolting out the door momentarily, so I can't answer this question as thoroughly as I would like. But I'll attend to it first thing next week. There are different reasons for having different kinds of flour. Self-rising flour is not a top priority but I'll get into that next week. Hang on, and I'll have a little primer for you.

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Kim O'Donnel: Well, it's five minutes before one and I've got to check out early. Thanks to all for the oily tips, thoughts on cracking eggs and cold versus hot pizza stones. Take good care, and if you're interested in Passover cooking, please check in with my guest Sheilah Kaufman next Monday, April 18. Til then, take care.

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