Seeing South Africa

A digital camera draws a crowd in a Cape Flats township. (R. Paul Herman)

WHERE TO EAT: At Boeta Ebrahima's Cape Malay Cuisine (52 Leafmore Rd., Kenwyn), our exotic, home-cooked feast was about $13 per person; reservations required at 011-27-21-761-4476. Strandvelders Community Tourism Services (Tourism Office, Heide Street, 011-27-28-754-2465, strandvelder@telkomsa.net) arranged our memorable dinner in Melkhoutfontein; $11 per person. Emqolweni Kamama Cafe (Kwanonqaba, Mossel Bay), South Africa's only non-alcoholic shebeen (informal cafe), serves drinks and snacks; pay what you wish. At the Anchorage Restaurant (Dolphin Bay Hotel, Louis Fourie Road and Bakke Street, Mossel Bay), we enjoyed smoked ostrich with melon, fresh oysters, red Roman fish and ostrich goulash with mushrooms for about $56 for two.

About 20 miles from Paarl, La Petite Ferme (just beyond Franschhoek on Pass Road; reserve in advance for a table with a view) combines gourmet cuisine with a mountainside location that takes in nearly all of the Stellenbosch Valley. Lunch with wine was $50 for two. For pizza, try Delfino's (The Point, Mossel Bay); $14 for two pies and beer. 28 Main (28 Main St., Knysna) offers crafts and crepes; a spicy karoo lamb crepe and a banana crepe were $9 with drinks. At Knysna Oyster Company (Long Street, Thesen Island), a dozen raw oysters, grilled fish, killer garlic bread and a bottle of South African bubbly for two was $60.

WHAT TO DO:

• Robben Island (Nelson Mandela Gateway, Victoria & Albert Waterfront, 011-27-21-409-5100 for museum, www.robben-island.org.za).Tours are about $24; reservations essential.

• In Melkhoutfontein, Strandvelders Community Tourism Services arranges walks, tours, meals and visits with local residents (see above). Our walk with a tour guide was $16.

• In Mossel Bay, Back Road Safaris (011-27-44-690-8150, techserv@lantic.net, or book through the Tourism Office, 011-27-44-691-2202, www.visitmosselbay.co.za) offers half-day "Meet the People" tours for $22 per person.

• The Dias Museum Complex (end of Market Street, Mossel Bay, 011-27-44-691-1067; 15 cents admission) includes the Post Office Tree, a botanical garden, the Dias museum and a shell museum.

• In Knysna, take a ferry to Featherbed Nature Reserve, with spectacular ocean scenery around every turn; $18 per person.

• The Outeniqua Choo-Tjoe (011-27-44-801-8288), a full-size steam-engine train, travels the scenic 42-mile route between Knysna and George, where a transport museum houses a number of historic trains; $10.50 round trip.

INFO: South African Tourism, 212-730-2929, www.southafrica.net.

-- Gayle Keck