The (Ndebele) King & I

"Bayede, what are your goals for your people?" Paul begins.

"For the children to get an education," the king answers. "My generation had no opportunity for education."

"How have things changed in the 10 years since democracy?" I inquire.

"Not so much has changed physically, but we are spiritually free and we no longer live in fear," he responds. "It will take 30 years to really see a change."

"What are the best and worst things about being a king?" Paul wants to know. "I have never had to do the worst thing -- killing a man," Mayitjha III replies. "There is nothing really good. I am always in meetings and resolving issues."

Suddenly a fat green bug hops onto His Majesty's ankle. The king's right-hand man leaps up, flicks the bug from the royal foot and stomps it into the dust. Well, there's at least one good thing about being a king.

"Why do you meet with tourists?" I ask.

"I don't get to travel much," he says, "so this is how I school about people and the world."

"Ngwenyama!" a passerby calls from the other side of the fence, earning a royal wave.

"Ask about his family," Titus coaches.

"Ngwenyama!" I echo. "Could you tell us about your wives and children?" We already know the king has five wives; we'd had a tasty lunch at Wife No. Four's ranch-style brick house. At the head of her dining room table, a chair is always left empty for His Majesty. Ditto the living room, where his vacant armchair commands the best view of the TV.

"Oh, when people ask me how many children I have, I must stop and count," the king reveals. "I can just say plus-minus 20," he adds, "plus-minus" being the favorite South African term for "about."

The arrival of a shiny sliver Mercedes is our cue to wrap things up. Before it whisks Mayitjha III away to more meetings and issues, we are allowed to snap photos and give gifts. Paul presents the booty we've brought. His Majesty seems especially fond of the playing cards with photos from around the world and a box with 50 flavors of Jelly Belly candy.

Before he climbs into his car, the king offers a final thought for us to carry back to America: "We send you greetings and we love you."

"Ndabezithi!" we shout, our eyes politely fixed on the departing royal shoes.

Titus Ncongwane of Sizwene Tours (011-27-11-975-5239, www.sizwene.com) arranged our two-day visit to KwaNdebele. It included transportation and guide; our meeting with the king; visits with two celebrated female artists; a tour through Kgodwane Cultural Village; a stop at a female initiation party (seasonal); a lunch and dinner with the king's fourth wife; and rustic lodging (no electricity, separate bathroom facilities) with breakfast. Cost was about $319 per person.