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Beaujolais Nouveau 2004

By Fritz Hahn
washingtonpost.com Staff Writer
Wednesday, November 10, 2004;

Beaujolais Nouveau is not a sophisticated French wine. A light red that ages for a few weeks, it was traditionally consumed by peasants during harvest celebrations. So why is it so popular? Marketing. According to French law, new batches of the wine cannot be served until the third Thursday in November. So on Wednesday night, as the seconds tick down to midnight, many area restaurants and bars celebrate with lavish parties, which are more beloved than the wine itself.

Bistrot du Coin will have several varieties of Beaujolais Nouveau available Wednesday evening, and after Mayor Anthony Williams pops the ceremonial first cork, all the wine is free. Tables will be cleared to create a dance floor after 10 p.m. DJ Saint James spins French and Latin music until the wee hours. Owner Michel Verdon urges an early arrival, as several hundred revelers packed the restaurant last year; the party, like the wine, is free.

The traditional stroke-of-midnight party will also be celebrated Wednesday at Les Halles, which attracted a crowd of about 500 last year for music, free French food (mmmm, tripe!) and, of course, free Beaujolais Nouveau after midnight -- the wines of Joseph Droomin are featured this year. This, too, is a free event and begins at 8.

While it doesn't have the immediacy of opening a bottle of Beaujolais Nouveau at 12:01 a.m., the annual Beaujolais Nouveau Festival, held Thursday night at La Maison Francaise, will still be the biggest party there since Bastille Day. It's also the city's most "official" party, as it's held at the French Embassy's cultural center. The festival features live music, traditional dinner entrees, a raffle and, of course, many varieties of Beaujolais Nouveau, which are imported for the occasion. Unfortunately, this event isn't free -- tickets are $65 each and available from the Wine Tasting Association (www.winetasting.org).

Bethesda's Mon Ami Gabi won't have a party per se, but marks the wine's release with a special three-course dinner menu offered Thursday through Saturday. Choose from seared salmon over lentils, carrots and garlic jus, or daube de beef over parpadelle pasta for a main entree. All meals come with a glass of Beaujolais Nouveau.

Another next-day option is thrown by the Alliance Francaise cultural group, which will celebrate at its Dupont headquarters with wine, cheese and accordionist Ross Quan. Tickets are $32 ($25 for Alliance Francaise members and $18 for students taking French classes). Space is limited so you must RSVP for this party before 6 p.m. on the 18th. Call 202/234-7911 for tickets and more information.


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