Blessed are those who give, and blessed are those who receive. The most blessed of all, however, are those who cover both bases. This year's crop of holiday wines offers bounteous opportunities to give gifts to others as well as to oneself. Allow me to go over the rules and to share the occasional recommendation for holiday gifts of wine.
Gift givers should abide by what etiquette authority Dawn Bryan says about the ritual of exchange: Successful gifts must satisfy the recipient's "hunger [in this case I'd prefer "thirst"] for approval, importance, affection or love."
In other words, don't give the wine equivalent of an electric carving knife. Look not for a "need" wine but a "want" wine. For example, a 12-pack of sound domestic "burgundy" is what everyone needs; what they want is a single bottle of French Chambertin Clos de Bez. Satisfy that thirst.
Consider also that the wine must withstand not only the recipient's scrutiny but also that of finicky friends -- like me, for example. This means giving a wine that communicates quality in no uncertain terms.
I'd love to be able to tell you that a wine's pedigree will be obvious strictly from what's inside the bottle, but the reality is quite the opposite. Many people simply have not yet developed taste buds sufficiently discerning to appreciate your generosity. In this regard, the reliable sense is not taste, but sight, as in "Wow, the label says Dom Perignon." Wineries spend a small fortune to design eye-catching labels and hefty bottles to telegraph the intrinsic merits of their best wines. Take advantage of it.
The flip side of a gift wine is the wine you procure for your own holiday festivities or for your cellar. Make your gift choices do double duty. Make a minimum purchase of two bottles, one for the giftee and at least one for your stock on hand. Seek equality between what you will own and what you will give. If you can manage a total of $50, don't spend $45 for the gift and $5 for yourself. Buy two bottles of a great $25 wine.
This might seem selfish, but it isn't. First, it's likely that you will serve that special bottle with friends and guests. More importantly, if it is a wine you really like, your own experience will personalize the gift. Instead of, "Here's something the guy in the store said was good," you'll be able to say, "Here's a wine I really love." In a world of store-bought trinkets, that's an important message.
The elegant solution to covering the giving and receiving bases simultaneously is to buy a case of good wine and age it in your cellar. Most retailers offer case discounts, but this cost saving is secondary compared with the price appreciation of investment-grade wines. The $50 wine of today will be a $75 or $100 gift wine in five to 10 years. Plus, you'll have the pleasure of tasting the wine as it evolves. Those bottles that you give away over time will be appreciated by recipients as treasures from your cellar, always a nice touch.
The following wines are sure holiday winners. They are thoroughly enjoyable now but also have the stuffing to age well. The choice of aging or drinking is up to you. The rule that great wines must be aged no longer pertains, owing to modern winemaking techniques that have eliminated the harsh tannins of yore. While there are exceptions, even highly age-worthy wines are now stunning in their youth. Prices are approximate.
Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou 2001 ($55-$60): Whether you're searching for a prestigious, eye-popping gift or a great wine to stock your own cellar, this is a classic that is considered a "super-second" -- one of the elite classified second growths on a par with official first growths of Bordeaux, Lafite, Latour, Chateau Margaux, Mouton-Rothschild and Haut-Brion. Over the past 20 years, a group of super-seconds has clearly distanced itself from the other seconds in price and, more dramatically, in quality.
Since achieving prominence in its landmark 1982 vintage, Ducru-Beaucaillou has amassed an enviable track record, producing wines of first-growth quality in several top vintages, including this one. The resemblance to first-growth Chateau Latour is especially striking, reflecting the fact that the vineyards of Ducru- Beaucaillou and Latour share a deep, gravelly ridge overlooking the Gironde River.
At around $60, Ducru-Beaucaillou costs about one-third the price of Latour. At this level of quality, it is is a genuine value. Enjoy the 2001 Ducru-Beaucaillou now and over the next 10 years.
Tenuta Dell Ornellaia Bolgheri "Le Serre Nuove" 2001 ($54-$60; Italy) and Tenuta Dell Ornellaia "Le Serre Nuove" 2002 ($44-$54; Italy): Le Serre Nuove is the kid brother of the legendary Ornellaia at less than half the price. While I would not discourage anyone from splurging on the extraordinary 2001 Ornellaia (or its equally illustrious Bolgheri neighbor, Sassicaia), Le Serre Nuove, made from younger vines and lots that are declassified from the senior wine, comes close in style and quality. Both are ethereally complex blends of hand-harvested Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes, impeccably vinified and aged in small oak barriques. Of the two vintages of Le Serre Nuove in current release, the 2001 is a bit more impressive. However, the 2002 is almost as good, and it seems to be selling for a bit less, making the choice a tossup. Drink now and over the next three to four years.
Stag's Leap Wine Cellars 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Artemis ($45; Napa Valley): This select blend of wines from the highly regarded Fay and SLV vineyards includes grapes from growers outside of the Stags Leap appellation, while its Cask 23 Cabernet Sauvignon -- which costs $125 to $150 -- is 100 percent estate-bottled. What's important, however, is what's the same: the bouquet of Fay vineyard. In my experience, this heavenly perfume of violets, spice, lavender and red berries has only two peers among Cabernet-based wines of the world, Chateau Margaux and Chateau Palmer-Margaux. Sniff and sip this supple, elegant Cabernet now and over the next five years.
Note: Because the 2001 Artemis seemed awkward both times I tasted it, I hesitate to recommend it as an alternative to the 2002. If the 2002 is not available, upgrade instead to the marvelous 2001 Fay ($75).
