What's Cooking

Cheap cheese ideas, puff pastry, fondue...

Kim O'Donnel (Craig Cola - washingtonpost.com)

Calling all foodies! Join us for another edition of What's Cooking, our live online culinary hour with Kim O'Donnel.

A graduate of Peter Kump's New York Cooking School, Kim spends much of her time in front of the stove or with her nose in a cookbook.

Get sucked in by Kim's narrated slide show on making lollipops.

The transcript follows.

Get a taste of the season with What's Cooking This Fall, Kim's latest video series.

Editor's Note: Washingtonpost.com moderators retain editorial control over Live Online discussions and choose the most relevant questions for guests and hosts; guests and hosts can decline to answer questions.

_____________

Kim O'Donnel: February is here, which means we're a little bit closer to spring. Couldn't come soon enough. I'm loving the bright sun this week, even if I'm still wearing my woolies. What else...Lovefest 05, aka Valentine's Day is around the corner, and I'll be doing a special on Thursday, Feb. 10. Show me how you share the culinary luv. Also, I am working on getting a guest to talk all things Asian New Year; details on that soon on the Live Online front. Hopefully, it will be early next week. Let's hear from you...

_______________________

Arlington, VA: Hi, A lot of Madhur Jaffrey's recipes call for "grated tomatos." How exactly does one grate a tomato? And if I just chop it up instead of grating will it make much of a difference? Thanks!;

Kim O'Donnel: Really? I've never seen this reference in Jaffrey's books. That said, grating a tomato is not worth your time. All you'd end up with is a pulpy mess. Do you have a recipe to reference?

_______________________

Washington, D.C.: Kim, Awesome chats! I have 3 yrs working experience, and am contemplating culinary schools - but not to be a chef. Amy thoughts on the one you attended in NYC? Hypothetically if I were to attend one in the FL, GA area do you have any recommendations? Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: I was really pleased with my program at Peter Kump's, now known as Institute of Culinary Education. It was a full-time, 40-hour week, with little time for anything else, but I loved the complete immersion. I am not familiar with what's happening in Florida and Georgia for schools, but you can start looking on shawguides.com or buy a copy of "Becoming A Chef."

_______________________

Denver, CO: Maybe this should wait til your V-day chat, but my beau and I are thinking of having a fondue night at home on the 14th. Do you have any good recipes? Also, we don't have a fondue pot nor do we want to buy one...will a crock pot work? (we have 2 - one for cheese and one for mmmm chocolate).

Kim O'Donnel: Do you have a neighbor that can lend you one? Or do you have a thrift shop you can poke around for a used number? I'm told crock pot will work, but they tend to be deep, which could make the whole dipping experience a bit challenging. As for recipes, I'll start to dig up...

_______________________

Ashburn, VA: I was making the caramel coating for a flan and was unable to get the water/sugar mixture to brown. I tried it several times in both a non-stick and non non-stick pan and it still didn't work.

Kim O'Donnel: First thing I want to know: When you were cooking your sugar mixture, did you stir at all? If you did after a certain temperature, then the sugar recrystallized and the molecules were all over the place. Leave the mixture alone to cook, and you will get caramelization. Promise.

_______________________

Virginia: Just wanted to comment... in last week's veggie chat, you said the Washington's GreenGrocer concentrated on local produce. In my box from them last week, most of the produce was from Latin America and California, so this isn't the case, at least in the winter.

Kim O'Donnel: Thanks for your first-hand report. Last time I had a delivery from them, it was featuring local stuff, but it's been a long while. Perhaps it's time to do more homework on the topic.

_______________________

Pickleville, Md.: Hi Kim, I've gotten really into quick pickling lately -- cauliflower, snap peas, carrots. Any ideas of other vegetables that might be good?

Kim O'Donnel: Beets, onions, mango, cucumbers, peppers perhaps (Remember, ole Peter Piper)...

_______________________

Annandale, Va.: Love your chats! I've taken so many great ideas from here. What are some delicious ideas for a great whole wheat spaghetti meal that doesn't involve bell peppers? I'm trying to increase the fiber in my diet, and I love pasta... Ideas would be much appreciated!

Kim O'Donnel: So many things you can do with pasta, whether it's whole wheat or regular style (which, by the way, does contain fiber)...Olive oil, garlic, lemon zest, crushed tomatoes, olives, chopped fresh parsley or rosemary are all terrific add-ons. Goat cheese is a nice creamy addition if you don't want cream...and don't underestimate the value of cooked pasta water...a little bit adds a bit of starch while loosening up a sauce that may have gotten too thick.

_______________________

Washington, DC: Hi Kim - I've been trying to eat more whole grains and am wondering about subbing whole wheat flour for regular in recipes. Are there any general guidelines? One recipe I was thinking of in particular is for scones and uses about equal parts cake & AP flour. Would WW be an equal sub for the AP, you think? Thanks!;!;

Kim O'Donnel: For every 1 cup of ap flour, you'd use 3/4 cup whole wheat flour. That much I know for baking bread. For other stuff, it's a case-by-case basis...baking is tricky and not all rules apply to all things. Does anyone have thoughts on making scones with whole wheat flour?

_______________________

Arlington, Va.: Sugar for flan: I have never mixed the sugar with water, or stirred, just put it in a pan over medium heat, and kept a VERY careful eye on it. Am I risking bodily harm?

Kim O'Donnel: No, you're not. The poster may have also had too much water in the mixture...but eventually the water will evaporate and the sugar will cook. What you're doing is speedier but invites more chance, but if it works, that's all that counts.

_______________________

Easy fondue: Equal amounts Swiss and Gyerare (sp?), 1/2 cp white wine, 1-2 tablespoons cornstarch to thicken, 1-2 tablespoons kirsch. Melt over stove on medium heat stiring often. Rub inside of fondue pot with split garlic clove and transfer melted fondue. Serve with apples and bread.

You can find fondue pots at Target and Linens and Things fairly cheap (between $20-30). Just make sure you purchase the heating gel- it is usually not included with the pot.

Kim O'Donnel: And that would be Gruyere, for any of you hitting the cheese counter...and thanks for your fondue tippy poo...

_______________________

Puff mama: I bought a box of puff pastry and the recipe I used only called for one sheet. Any suggestions for what to do with the second? I made apple tarts (yum!;) but now I want to do something different.

Kim O'Donnel: Just this weekend I was consulting a friend, who wanted to make a baking pan of spinach pie...with up to 12 sheets of phyllo...you certainly could use the puff..if you're interested in details on filling, holler at me in an e-mail.

_______________________

Nani, Texas: Hi Kim. If "Sticks Mt. Airy" is out there, would she/he mind posting the slippery dumplings recipe again? I made it last year for my nephew's fiancee, but have since misplaced the recipe. Also, Kim, I gave your Indian spinach/rice soup recipe (posted in last week's chat) a whirl this past cold and rainy weekend and was it yummy!; Sat down with a big bowl of it and watched old black/white movies on TV. Cozy!;

Kim O'Donnel: Nani, where have you been? So glad you are sipping on soup. Perhaps Sticks will come through for you.

_______________________

Metro Center, Washington, DC: Hi Kim,
I have a 3 pound boneless beef pot roast thawing in my fridge and some baby carrots. Now what? does take very long to cook? Can i do it in a slow cooker all day or can i do it after work? What type of seasoning or other veggies should I include (I am thinking celery and little potatoes)
i bought it on sale with the intention of looking up things to do with it, but the time came to take it out of the freezer so now I turn to you for help!

Kim O'Donnel: Talked about this very thing just a few weeks ago. A three-pounder can braise in a 325 oven in under 3 hours. Don't know if that would work during the week, but it's a great thing to make on a Sunday and have as leftovers throughout the week. In addition to those diced carrots, you can add a few cloves of garlic, a few thinly sliced onions, fresh chopped rosemary, a little tomato paste (or a fresh tomato), some white wine...potatoes can go in during last hour, as you don't want them to overcook.

_______________________

Washington, D.C.: I used a crockpot for fondue not long ago and it worked fine. It's not elegant, but it works. Just remember to allow enough time for the cheese to melt. Takes longer than you think.

Kim O'Donnel: Thanks for that first-hand fonduey report...much appreciated.

_______________________

Arlington Va: Hi. I've got a question about a Le Creuset piece of
cookware I received. It's a braising piece. I thought the
point of Le Creuset was that you could brown something
on top of the stove and then put the pan in the oven for
the rest of the cooking process. But an instruction sheet
that came with my cookware says not to use high
temperatures on the cooktop. Am I misreading this? Do
you have any Le Creuset and have you browned something
in it on high temperatures without damaging the pan?
Thanks. It's a pricey piece and I don't want to damage it.

Kim O'Donnel: I have a Le Creuset stew pot and use it regularly, both on top of the stove and inside. I've had it about three years and haven't damaged it yet. Anyone else with similar Creuset issues?

_______________________

For puff mamma: You could also use that puff pastry to make savory turnovers. Alton Brown did a show on FoodTV on puff pastry and he had a recipe for savory turnovers. Or you could just experiment with ingredients. Think "empanada" or "calzone."

Kim O'Donnel: Yes, yes. Excellent idea.

_______________________

Super Bowl Party: Hi Kim, Submitting early in case I can't join the fun. I'm looking for a fab honey bbq wing recipe and a meatball recipe that I can use for our Super Bowl party. Can you or the chatters suggest one that will make me look like a great cook? Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: There is a recipe in tomorrow's Food section on wines, fyi...meatballs, I'm thinking albondigas, Mexican style...if you can join me Thursday am on WTOP, I'm sharing thoughts on making ribs for the big toughskin festivities...

_______________________

Fondue-ville, Va.: Mmmmm fondue! Sounds really good - but what is kirsch?

Kim O'Donnel: Kirsch is a brandy, made from cherries...

_______________________

Virginia: When do CSA's start signing people up for spring memberships?

Kim O'Donnel: I think soon...promise to dig up some links for you by next week's program, so you can start your research...

_______________________

Cleveland Park, Washington, D.C.: I like to make French Onion soup, but, well, I'm a public sector employee, and $10-12/lb for Gruyere cheese is a little out of my range sometimes. Are there any other cheeses that taste/behave the same way, but aren't going to put as quite a dent in my wallet?

Kim O'Donnel: Understand. Emmentaler is probably going to be a few dollars less...

_______________________

Washington, DC.: Hi Kim, just wanted to say thank you for all the great tips. This weekend I made a sweet potato soup by alternating a recipe I have for butternut squash soup with sherry, granny smith apple, garlic and ginger and it is so delicious. Something I would not have tried until reading and participating in these chats. Please keep up the great work!;

Kim O'Donnel: So glad to hear it, and a bit of inspiration for others who may be stuck for ideas...cheers.

_______________________

St. Louis, Mo: Kim-
I buy bags of frozen chicken breast to use for dinner. The problem is the breast are huge!; 2 chicken breast is enough for my family of 3 with leftovers. Do you know any brands that have frozen chicken breast in the 4-5 ounce area? Thanks

Kim O'Donnel: My producer Miz B., who knows St. Lou, sez that Trader Joe's, which just opened over there, does frozen chix breasts worth considering...

_______________________

For the Pickler: Ooh ooh!; Do garlic!; It's reeeeally delicious, and good in martinis. Then send me some, please -- my jar just ran out!;

Kim O'Donnel: That's a terrific idea...thanks for adding on...

_______________________

Upstate NY: My mom used to make these fabulous wings for us as kids. 1/3 cup each of ketchup, honey, and soy sauce. I season the wings with garlic, S&P. Cook wings for 30 min. toss on sauce and bake another 20 min. coating the wings. Sometimes I toss in a little sesame oil into the sauce and coat wings with toasted sesame seeds. YUM.

Kim O'Donnel: Thanks, Upstate. I'm partial to jerking up mine, when I've got the hankering. Busha Browne's is a reliable brand of jerk rub...

_______________________

Winter produce: My knowledge of farming is non-existent. What produce is locally grown this time of year? I would think that with the snow and cold nothing could be grown until spring.

washingtonpost.com: Winter's Green Reward from last week's Food section.

Kim O'Donnel: A useful link to get you started, plus a few thoughts: If you're living in this area, get to a few of the year-round farm markets on the weekend. Arlington Courthouse is on Sat am, plus Takoma Park and Dupont Circle on Sun am...you'll find stuff that can take the cold, including hearty greens (kale, mustards, chard, arugula), roots (sweet potatoes, turnips, rutabaga, beets..), cruciferous (broccoli, cauliflower, brussels)...go have a looksee...it's fun.

_______________________

Another idea for puff mama: I take a box of frozen spinach, thaw and drain really, really well. Then mix it with a package of crumbled feta cheese (goat cheese would work too, although the finished product may be too rich), an egg, some nutmeg and s&p. Lay out the puff pastry sheet, spoon the filling in the middle, fold over the two sides so they overlap and press down to seal. Then seal the sides. I top it with some butter and put it in a 375 oven for about 30-40 minutes, or when it's brown and flaky on top.

Kim O'Donnel: Yes indeed...I might even add some cayenne or paprika here...cheers.

_______________________

French Onion Soup cheese sub: For the chatter who doesn't want to splurge on Gruyere, try Trader Joes (great Gruyere for not as much $$) and believe it or not, Costco sells a very large block that lasts a long time for something like $15.
For a non-traditional and inexpensive approach, try Provolone. Melts nicely and imparts a good flavor.

Kim O'Donnel: Excellent tidbit...one that our cost-cutter will appreciate...

_______________________

Atlanta, Ga. Read your chat weekly! I started reading it when I lived in the DC area, but then I moved to Atlanta. I know you already have plenty on your plate, but do you think you could consider doing regional chats sometimes? I don't know of any like yours in the Atlanta area. Thanks

Kim O'Donnel: Thanks for reading, Atlanta. One of the beauties of the Web is that folks from all over can participate and read on their own time zones. What's Cooking remains a unique program on the Web, so don't be shy about sending questions from Atlanta. By the way, if you read Creative Loafing, I write a weekly recipe column for them, on freelance basis.

_______________________

Fondue Dessert: Very good and perfect for v-day

Ice Cream Ball Fondue
Recipe courtesy Gale Gand

2 pints ice cream, different flavors
1 cup biscotti crumbs, (using store-bought biscotti)
1 cup toasted almonds, chopped
2 cups satin chocolate sauce, recipe follows
2 cups caramel sauce, recipe follows
2 cups raspberry sauce, recipe follows

Satin Chocolate Sauce:
4 ounces unsweetened chocolate, chopped
9 ounces semisweet chocolate, chopped
1/2 cup light corn syrup
1 cup hot coffee

Caramel Sauce:
1 1/4 cups sugar
1/3 cup water
2/3 cup heavy cream

Raspberry Sauce:
3 cups frozen raspberries, thawed
1/4 cup sugar

Satin Chocolate Sauce: In the top half of a double boiler, combine the 2 chocolates over simmering water. Stir constantly until melted, then whisk in the corn syrup and coffee without removing the double boiler from the heat. Whisk until smooth and shiny. (The sauce can be made up to 24 hours in advance and refrigerated. To rewarm, stir over low heat or heat in a microwave.)

Caramel Sauce: Pour the sugar into the center of a deep saucepan. Carefully pour the water around the walls of the pan, trying not to splash any sugar onto the walls. Do not stir; gently draw your finger twice through the center of the sugar, making a cross, to moisten it. Over high heat, bring to a full boil and cook without stirring, swirling the pan occasionally to even out the color, until medium caramel in color, 5 to 10 minutes. Immediately turn off the heat and use a wooden spoon to slowly and carefully stir in the cream (it will bubble up and may splatter). Set aside. If the sauce has cooled, rewarm it over low heat (or in a microwave) until softened.

Raspberry Sauce: Puree the berries with the sugar in a blender. Strain out the seeds through a strainer and keep chilled until ready to serve.

Using a small ice cream scoop, scoop out balls of ice cream and place them on a sheet pan in the freezer. One at a time, roll 1 flavor in the biscotti crumbs and the other flavor in the chopped almonds then return them to the freezer. Keep them in an airtight container until ready to serve, up to 2 days.

Place the sauces in bowls or individual fondue pots if you have them and warm the chocolate fudge and caramel. Serve the sauces with the coated ice cream balls and some forks for dipping. Satin Chocolate Sauce:

Yield: 3 cups Preparation time: 15 minutes Cooking time: 10 minutes
Caramel Sauce: Yield: 2 cups Preparation time: 15 minutes Cooking time: 10 to 15 minutes
Raspberry Sauce: Yield: 2 cups Preparation time: 15 minutes Cooking time: 0 minutes

Yield: 6 servings
Prep Time: 20 minutes
Cook Time: 10 minutes
Difficulty: Easy

Kim O'Donnel: Well, la di da...you certainly are prepared!

_______________________

Washington, D.C.: Hi Kim, I have a recipe for salmon that calls for Miso. I finally found miso in the refrigerated section of Whole Foods, but there were so many different kinds. I can't remember all of the details, but there was a white, red, and brown one. If the recipe doesn't specify, which one should I use? Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: It's true, miso can be confusing for the unitiated. I posted a link last week to a useful guide that ran in Food section last year...for first timers, I recommmend using the lightest (white/yellow, aka Shinshu), as it's the mellowest and most versatile.

_______________________

Herndon, VA: Kim, do you have any advice for taco spices? The stuff you can buy from the store never tastes as good as the spices at restaurants, and I've been trying to replicate it without success. Thanks!;

Kim O'Donnel: Cayenne, cumin, dried oregano, salt, black pepper...

_______________________

Badlands SD: I love using my Creuset pieces, and I haven't had any issues with the stovetop or oven temps with the exception of the painted brand on the side starting to melt off. The paint is dripping down the outside of some of the pieces, purely looks, no cooking issues.

Kim O'Donnel: Thanks, Badlands. Tell us, how cold is it in your corner today?

_______________________

Washington, DC: Hi Kim,

I'm submitting early due to a noon meeting. I'm making paella for Valentine's Day dinner, and I was wondering if you could suggest a good veggie side dish (or veggie appetizer) to go with? Many thanks!;

Kim O'Donnel: Paella can be heavy, so I might suggest a salad of mixed greens...with segments of citrus and sliced almonds or toasted pinenuts or walnuts...nothing too fancy but something to help cut against the fat...

_______________________

Washington, DC: I was making oatmeal raisin cookies (nothing exotic, but hubby loves them) the other day, but mistakenly bought old fashioned oats instead of quick oats. The batter turned out very liquidy and caused the cookies to run all over the tray. I had made the same recipe a few weeks before, but those were perfect. What is the difference between those types and would that effect the cookies, or did I mess up elsewhere?
Thanks

Kim O'Donnel: Are you sure you didn't use instant oats? That's the one variety I'd say would NOT work and wouldn't be interchangeable. Old fashioned and quick oats should work no prob.

_______________________

Silver Spring, Md.: I'm looking for onion soup bowls (oven safe) and have only been able to find them online. Does anyone know of a store in the area that might carry them?

Kim O'Donnel: Sort of those crocky things? Hmmm...thoughts anyone?

_______________________

Capitol Hill, Washington, D.C.: Hi Kim: With the weather being so cold, soup has been my main course this year. Would you happen to know of a good recipe for split pea soup? Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: I might start with a chopped onion or shallot, a little bit of garlic, too, in a big pot, with some oil. If you're doing ham flavor, now's the time to add it. I might add some cayenne, here, then add peas, a little bit of white wine or vermouth, stock or water, but only enough to barely cover. Bring up to a boil. Lower heat, simmer. A bay leaf is good here, as is a sprig or two of thyme. Cook til tender. At end, salt, add some lemon zest and when serving, mint is fab on top.

_______________________

Onion Soup bowls: I'm pretty sure I've seen them at TJ Maxx, maybe Marshall's, in the housewares section...

Kim O'Donnel: Excellent sleuthing. Thanks!

_______________________

Clifton, Va: Le Creuset- You dont want to put under the broiler or in a 500 degree oven. I have a 15,000 btu burner which I use to brown stew beef. I never go any higher with my Le Creuset pot. Haven't had any problems in a year. See no reason to go to high on the burner other than to burn everything.

Kim O'Donnel: Thanks for your input...

_______________________

Le Creuset answer: It isn't that you can't brown on the stove top before putting it in the oven, its that you shouldn't crank it up as high as you would for a skillet. And you won't need to. A Le Creuset will sear things nicely if you heat it on med to med-high. Just give it a few minutes to heat all that iron and you'll love it.

Kim O'Donnel: And more...

_______________________

Badlands SD: Cold? Not here, we are havings 50s and 60s this week, a 70 last week. But it can change at any time.

Kim O'Donnel: Lucky you. It's warmer there than here...

_______________________

Silver Sprin, Md.: Go to your local potter. We're all making onion soup bowls this time of year! (I know of one in DC, Hinckley Pottery, and a number of shops in Takoma Park also sell them).

Kim O'Donnel: Nice idea!

_______________________

Re: Cheese Prices & Fondue: For cheaper cheese (guyere, havarti, parmesan, etc), check out Trader Joes. I have found that they tend to be significantly less than regular grocery stores.

Kim O'Donnel: More on cheap cheese...

_______________________

Fairfax, VA: Your poster sounded like a beginner pot-roaster, so maybe it is worth mentioning that both the roast and the gravy come out better if you brown the roast (and sweat the onion, celery, carrots) in some oil before putting all in the oven. Should be bubbling before it goes in, too.

If I don't have wine handy, I'll use stock, cider, beer, almost anything but water for the liquid. I often use a stick blendeer to puree the aromatics into the gravy at the end. Naturally thickens it without adding flour.

Kim O'Donnel: Yes, it is a good idea to sear the roast...thanks.

_______________________

Virginia: Hi Kim, I am making dinner for a family of four that lost their mom in the Fall. The neighborhood is taking over making them dinner 3-4 times a week. They are probably tired of casseroles/lasagna. Any ideas for a full meal to bring them? (I will bring it hot). Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: I have your e-mail and am planning to get back to you...thanks for your patience.

_______________________

For next week?: Hi. A couple of weeks ago I submitted a question re: cooking (not baking) in a convection oven. After the chat I re-consulted the directions that came with the oven, and indeed they claim with convection cooking one needs lower temps and less time. You thought it might be more; I am finding that temps and cooking time are virtually identical for bake and convection bake settings.

Any chance you could give tips in next week's online chat about the uses one might make of a convection oven? I find it browns nicely, but don't have the tricks down yet.

Thanks in advance.

Kim O'Donnel: I'll see what I can do, dear. Thanks for your diligence. And on that note, it's time to run. Gotta catch some sunlight before it all fades into the horizon...Thanks for all the good stuff, and keep up the zesty spirit. Til next time. All best.

_______________________