Talk About Travel

The Flight Crew, from left: John Deiner, Carol Sottili, Steve Hendrix, Anne McDonough, Gary Lee, K.C. Summers, Cindy Loose, Andrea Sachs. (Melissa Cannarozzi - for The Post)

The Post's Travel Section Flight Crew will take your comments, questions, suspicions, warnings, gripes, sad tales and happy endings springing from the world of ... the world. Of course, the Flight Crew will be happy to answer your travel questions -- but the best thing about this forum, we insist, is that it lets travelers exchange information with other travelers who've been there, done that or otherwise have insights, ideas and information to share. Different members of the Crew will rotate through the captain's chair every week, but the one constant is you, our valued passengers.

We know you have a choice in online travel forums, and speaking for the entire Flight Crew, we want to thank you for flying with us.

You may also browse an archive of previous live travel discussions and a list of frequently asked questions.

The transcript follows.

Editor's Note: Washingtonpost.com moderators retain editorial control over Live Online discussions and choose the most relevant questions for guests and hosts; guests and hosts can decline to answer questions.

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Cindy Loose: Welcome to this week's edition of the Travel Chat. I'm Cindy Loose and am your captain today. Crew is composed of our editor K.C. Summers, John Deiner, Carol Sotilli, Anne McDonough, Gary Lee and Andrea Sachs. We'll throw out to you good questions we can't answer, but even when we do have something to say, feel free to chime in. The best Santa's helper--or I guess that should be Tom Turkey assistant--will be told to email me (loosec@washpost.com) to tell me whether they'd like a coffee table book with fab pictures of California, or of the Mediterranean.

Meanwhile, if any of your would like to share stories of travel during Thanksgivings past, we're all listening. Most appreciated--is you know good secret places to eat as you travel the major thoroughfares outside D.C., please let us know. I can tell you this about Breezewood, which is always my stop on the way home to Pa., where 70 and the Pa. Turnpike connect--there is nothing good to eat there.

Let's go.

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websites and non-chain hotels: In this week's article you discussed mostly airlines, but I am curious what is your advice on websites that would be good for booking hotels that do not belong to any chains. I am in particilar interested in hotels in Canadian Rockies - I want to go there next September, but prices in the parks seem to be out of my range.
Thanks a lot.

Gary Lee: For non-chain properties, check out placestostay.com and quikbook.com. You might also try all-hotels.com

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Finland/ Russia in May: Submitting early - meeting at 2pm - UGH!;

My husband and I are venturing to Scandinavia for the first time - yeah!; - for about ten days over memorial day weekend next year. We're going to fly into Helsinki, then rent a car and drive to a cottage in the woods near Turku we've rented for most of a week. We're going to explore Helsinki for a day or two, and we're thinking about making a stop in one other city - and are considering St. Petersburg. Any thoughts on this? Good idea? We'd also consider Copenhagen or Oslo instead. We only have 10 days to play with and would love any suggestions you or the peanut gallery can provide!; Thank you - and love your section, as usual!;!;!;

Gary Lee: If you have only one other city to go to, I would suggest taking an overnight boat to Stockholm. You can see the main sights of this lovely Swedish city during one day and if you want take an overnight boat back to Helsinki without having to get a hotel.

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Washington, DC: Hi Flight Crew,

I'm in the middle of a debate with some friends and was curious what your opinions would be.

We're in the beginning stages of planning a trip to Australia. Originally there were 3 of us (me, a friend and a friend of hers whom I've met once). The plans were to get off the plane, pick up a rental car and just go as we want. No set schedule or plans, just a rough idea of where to go. My friend has taken it upon herself to invite an additional 4 people and is thrilled that we'll need to rent 2 cars not one.

I'm concerned that traveling with such a large group is destined to disolve into much stress, chaos and fighting because you'll have 7 people wanting to go various directions and only 2 cars to get everyone there. Its not like we're going to the beach or one set spot and day trips are possible.

Am I over-reacting? I've traveled around the world like this before in small groups with no problems. Any time the groups have gotten larger, problems develop. Any experience with this or is this an experience unique to me?

Thanks for your input!;!;

Cindy Loose: I don't think you're overreacting at all, particularly since this group in two cars hasn't even decided where to go yet. Let me tell you this about Australia---it's a really huge place, and there a big chunks of it that aren't worth visiting. There are some pretty wonderful places, and some pretty sorry towns. I'm all for spontaneity, but it works better in some places than others. You can set out by car along say the New England coast and pretty much find something pretty no matter where you head. Do that in Australia and you could find yourself staring at scrub for 48 hours of driving time.

If you decide to accept two carloads of people, and it doesn't sound like you have alot of choice without upsetting those who signed on, then at the very least you have to work out ahead of time where you're going. You can split up and do separate things once you arrive at an attraction, but sitting in a parking lot wondering aloud what might be to the east sounds like a recipe for misery.

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Ohio: I just returned a trip that almost made me never want to travel again. I flew Continental from Cleveland to Philadelphia. Both ways we had delays of more than 2 hours where we just sat on the plane...no doubt you have all been there. My question comes from an incident on the return flight. I was chewing on a few remaining ice cubes in my cup when the flight attendant came down the aisle for picking up trash. I have flown on probably 200 flights in my life and have always been allowed to hold my drink through the landing. This flight attendant took my cup and threatened my in a very rude manner with a $10,000 fine from the FAA that prohibits people from keeping their drinks when landing....is this true?

Carol Sottili: I've never heard of the rule and can't find any mention of it on the FAA Web site. Anyone out there an expert on airline rules?
To file a complaint about the incident, you can call the Aviation Consumer Protection Division at (202) 366-2220 to record your complaint. Or write
Aviation Consumer Protection Division, C-75 U.S. Department of Transportation 400 Seventh Street, S.W. Washington, D.C. 20590.

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Washington, D.C.: Best and cheapest way to get to Western Ukraine? Through Kiev? Through Warsaw? By train from Western Europe?

Gary Lee: It depends a bit on where you're departing from and exactly where you're headed in Ukraine. If you have some time on your hands, the train from Poland should be cheapest. Otherwise, I would suggest looking into flights through Kiev or Moscow.

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Minneapolis, Minn.: This December 21-31, 2004, I will visiting Norway and England. I have a US Passport that expires on February 3, 2005. Should I renew my passport prior to travel?

Cindy Loose: I would, just so I could avoid the research. Alternately, you can go online at www.travel.state.gov and you should find there whether those two countries are among those that require your passport to have six months left on it when they let you in. To feel totally confident I'd go a step further and call the consular sections of each of those countries. But why bother--you need a new passport soon anyway.

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Bethesda, Md.: Dear Flight Crew,

I'm heading to Phoenix (my sister is in grad school in Glendale) over Thanksgiving weekend. We'll do a two-day trip up to the Grand Canyon. Any tips re: places to stop on the drive, or any specific tips for the Phoenix area? Have any of you been to Taliesin West - is it worth the admission? Thank you!;

John Deiner: Hey, Beth. I'm not really familiar with Phoenix, so I'll let the clicksters help you with that part of the equation, but places to stop en route to the GC include both Sedona, which is off the main drag and into a valley, and Flagstaff, which is a really neat town. The drive itself to the Grand Canyon is pretty easy, but both spots are worth at least a drive around.

And anyone out there been to Taliesin West? Anyone?

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Arlington, Va.: Taliesin West is a must see.

John Deiner: Thanks, Arl. Ya hear that, Bethesda? It's a must see. Do it.

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Arlington, Va.: With ATA's bankruptcy and the pending deal for Air Tran to take over its routes from National and Midway, will Air Tran continue nonstop flights between the two, or will it route all flights out of DCA through its hub in Atlanta as it currently does? ATA was an often competitive alternative to United or American to Chicago.

Carol Sottili: I don't believe AirTran is trying to take over the routes that ATA now serves. Instead, it wants the gates that the airline owns at Chicago Midway, Reagan National and New York LaGuardia. So I wouldn't expect any changes in AirTran's current service.

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City of Lights: Bonjour!; I'm off to Paris on Wednesday for my very first trip after studying French for over 9 years!; Do you have any unique suggestions for events or places to go? Are the cafes very festive for beaujolais nouveau? Merci beaucoup!;!;

Gary Lee: A couple of suggestions I often make for first time visitors: go to Notre Dame and do a tour that will take you up to the top. Take a bus tour from one of the coaches that stops outside of Notre Dame and goes to most of the major tourist sites. It will give you a good lay of the land and help you sort out which attraction you want to go back to for a longer look. If you feel like splurging, have lunch at Jules Verne, the restaurant in the middle of the Eiffel tower.

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Arlington, Va.: Is there a maximum age on international youth hostels? I know I stayed in them when I was younger, but at 28, I don't know if I'm still a youth. Also, any thoughts on the safety of a woman traveling alone in Mexico? Any recommendations on cheap surfing schools? What's a no-miss outside of beaches, Cuernavaca, and Mexico City?I'll meet up with people later for a wedding, but before I do, I'd love to go around alone for a week. I'm not crazy about joining a tour group but I could if necessary. I've traveled Europe alone a lot, for what it's worth, and my Spanish is decent.

Cindy Loose: Most so-called youth hostels take all comers--you can even be old like me. I'd say join the hostel club, and in addition to discounts you'll get a catalogue outlining all the places you can stay and what criteria they may have.

I would travel alone in Mexico, assuming you're not going into the untrodden paths. I've done it with a child, and I'm more cautious about that than traveling alone. I'm sure there are parts of Mexico you wouldn't want to do that, and certainly be cautious and stick to the good parts of Mexico City--but I'd say that about D.C. too. Read what the State Dept. has to say at www.travel.state.gov, realizing they are quite conservative in their advice.

Don't know cheap surfing schools--can anyone out there help?

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Columbus, Ohio: Hi all, I am headed to Barbados on Friday for a week-long vacation. Any must-sees? We will have a car and we enjoy snorkeling, shopping, and good eats. Thanks!;

KC Summers: Lucky you, Columbus. The great thing about Barbados is there's so much to see and do, beyond the usual vegetating-on-the-beach stuff (not that there's anything wrong with that). Definitely check out the Oistins fish fry, a Friday night street party with music, locals decked out in their weekend best, and the most wonderful, freshest grilled fish you will ever eat. Harrison's Cave (underground caverns) are fun to explore. The rugged scenery of the east and north coasts is incredible (they have international surfing competitions in Bathsheba). There's a 300-year-old sugar plantation you can tour, a snorkeling marine park -- you won't be bored, I promise you.

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Euro-quandary: Trying to get the most bang for the buck... Given the currently unfavorable exchange rate between the U.S. dollar and the euro, is it better to exchange money here at home, in Europe, or perhaps use credit cards during a trip abroad?

Carol Sottili: I just returned Saturday night from Sicily and found that the euro exchange rate was a little better there than here, but the difference wasn't great. If you're going to a place where credit cards are widely accepted, it's probably a good idea to go that route (check fees with your card issuer). I found that no one wanted to take credit cards in Sicily except the hotels and the posher shops.

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Falls Church, Va.: Hi Crew -

I really need some help fast! My husband & I found out this very morning that we need to leave the Sunday of Thanksgiving weekend to go to Russia to complete the adoption of our new daughter. She is almost 4 years old. On our initial trip 10 weeks ago, we flew direct from Dulles to Moscow on Aeroflot and it was wonderful. But Aeroflot suspends that direct service during the winter due to low passenger volume. For Customs reasons relating to the adoption, we want our US Port of Entry to be Dulles. So my question is, what is the best European airport for a layover with a shell-shocked 4 year-old? I need to buy tickets today...thanks!

Gary Lee: I would look into Lufthansa flights that stop in Frankfort. In past years, I often found the connections to be pretty good.

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RE: Finland: I agree with the suggestion on going to Stockholm. However, taking the ship from Turku might be a better option; the distance is shorter, the fares lower and this way you will see much more of the beautiful archipelago between Turku and Aland Islands.

Gary Lee: Thanks for the tip.

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Bethesda, Md.: re: Taliesen West---GO! I thought it was terrific. Took the house tour, which does not let you roam the grounds, which was a bit of a shame. But I'd do it again, for sure.

Need advice: I'm considering using Delta FF miles to visit friends in Germany and thought I might want to stop in England on the way. That would mean FF to England, then on my own to Germany, and FF from Germany to America. Any advice on cheap flights from UK to Germany? What's the best time of year to see the gardens in England? thanks!

Carol Sottili: Try www.ryanair.com and www.openjet.com for cheap intra Europe flights. I'd think that garden tours would be best in late spring.

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Washington, D.C.: My wife has suggested going to New York City for the New Year's Eve celebration, assuming we can crash at a friend's apartment. I'm a bit wary, given the likely cold temperatures and other factors (are the crowds more rowdy or fun-loving?) and high cost of travel at that time of year (cheapest train fare I found was $150 r.t.). Have any of you been? What do you think? BTW, we have spent New Year's Eve in Rio and enjoyed it, with much bigger (though spread-out) crowds-- warmer temperatures, to be sure.

John Deiner: Hey, D.C. Okay, I haven't done it for quite some time, and it's changed a lot since the last time I participated (before they cleaned up Times Square, that is), but I honestly can say that some of the funnest, most memorable New Year's Eves I had were watching that stupid ball drop in person.

In my experience, the crowds weren't rowdy, just looking for a good time, and even though it may have been cold, the time flies and I don't ever remember it being too miserable (okay, it rained once, and that was miserable!). My esteemed colleague, Anne McDonough, tells me that New Yorker's DON'T go to Times Square on the Eve, leaving it to out-of-towners, so if that helps sway your mind . . .

(P.S. That RT train fare you quoted doesn't seem bad at all, and if you book online, you can nab a discount)

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Washington, DC: I'm trying to a buy an airline ticket for the holidays. And i know to buy one ASAP. but what day of the week is usually the best day to purchase a ticket and get a good deal? Many thanks.

Carol Sottili: I've heard that Tuesdays and Wednesdays are best days to purchase, but I have never seen any evidence of this.

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Gaithersburg, Md.: What are your thoughts on using a travel agent these days? We are trying to book a trip to Aruba for next year and, while I've been there already, my companion hasn't. I want to make sure I get the best deal, but also want to have a bit of control. Are travel agents still valuable in these click and go days?

Cindy Loose: I just did a story more or less about that topic. I'll have our computer helpers put up a link. The most general way to answer---it depends how experienced you are in searching fares, knowing the little ins and outs, and how much time you want to spend researching. You can save yourself a lot of time by going to an agent, and you might have a better experience if you've found a good travel agent. If you're not buying a package, you'll have to pay a fee to have them book your airfare.

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Washington, DC: For a July honeymoon, what Carribean destination would you suggest for people who wouldn't spend 1 hour lying on the beach in the sun, but want to do active things (hike, shop, eat) in a laid back environment? Thanks very much!

KC Summers: See Barbados answer above! I didn't mention the hiking and off-road jeep rides, but they have lots of active stuff like that. Also, Dominica and St. Lucia are good for hiking. Remember though that July is h-o-t in the Caribbean.

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Rockville, Md.: Hello!
I'm planning a trip to Ethiopia in Jan/Feb. I've been looking at airfares online and they're pretty pricey. I know DC has a large Ethiopian popualation -- are there any local travel agents that specialize in fares to Addis Abbaba?
Thanks!

Andrea Sachs: Check with consolidators (you can find their ads in newspapers or look for companies online) for cheap fares, and search for sales through African airlines, such as South Africa Airways and Ethiopian Airlines (save 5 percent when you book online). The country's embassy Web site also has a list of tour operators you can contact; see www.ethiopianembassy.org.

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Chicago, Ill.: We're planning to be in Venice, Italy in late November. Where can we get up to the minute updates on the flooding situation?What should we know about the flooding? How do you get around if the place is flooded?

Gary Lee: A couple of places you might check out. One is the new aggregator kayak.com, which includes reviews of properties with its listings. Another is to check out the website www.venere.com, an Italy-based online agency that has lots of deals on places in Europe.

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New York City: For Paris - take the time to go to Versailles and if you can, go on a tour of the entire grounds. The first time I went to Paris I did the tour of Versailles and leared some very interesting things about the building, Louis and Marie Antoinette, etc. The second time, I took a friend and we did it on our own and it wasn't nearly as much fun since you don't get the backstory - such as how Marie Antoinette used to have the sheep on the property dyed to match the color of her dress that day. And go to a flea market - so much fun!; Bon journee!;

Gary Lee: These are good ideas, too!

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Lake Ridge, Va.: Hi crew,
Novice globe-trotter here. What's the best way to research hotels overseas? I'd like to read some reviews, but I'm not sure how to process the scads that I find posted online by past guests. Is there anything more... professional? We'll be traveling to Italy: Venice, Florence, Rome, and Naples. Thanks for your help!

Gary Lee: Try www.venere.com and kayak.com

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Washington, DC: Hi Crew, Any tips for someone who's never been to Bermuda, but wants to get married there? Best time of year for warm water and low rates? Most naturally beautiful spots on the island? Thank you!;!;!;

John Deiner: Think May, D.C. Low rates are tough to come by anytime of the year, but there's a several-week shoulder season in early May that's PERFECT for visiting.

The weather is usually nice, water and air temps are up, crowds are down--just ideal for a wedding. As for the most naturally beautifully spots, there are all manner of lovely, cliffside, beachfront parks lining the South Shore. Last time I was there, I watched someone get married at one of them under a little gazebo at sunset. Check with Bermuda Tourism about ones they suggest, but you really can't go wrong anywhere on the isalnd. The lighthouse in the center of the island is particularly neat-it's on the highest point (of course!) and gives a remarkable view of everything.

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Bethesda Waif: Just how early do you have to book for spring break? I'm going crazy trying to book something for a family of four to the Caribbean. Many affordable places that are family-friendly are already booked. All of the special deals run out either before Christmas or in mid-February. I'm worried if we wait until the next set of deals are offered, we won't be able to get flights, and only the dregs of the hotels will be left. What's a soccer mom to do?

Carol Sottili: Last year, one of my friends wanted to go to Atlantis over spring break, but there were no rooms. She then contacted a travel agent and they had their own allocation of rooms. Try the big agencies - Liberty, Carlson Wagonlit, etc. It's always a good idea to book as early as possible if you need specific dates, especially during busy seasons such as spring break. But get travel insurance just in case (read the fine print).

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Arlington, Va.: The folks going to Finland may want to consider flying into Helsinki and then flying back out from Stockholm to avoid having to back track. I agree that Stockholm is worthwhile for at least a couple of days. While they are in the neighborhood of Turku they may want to pop into town and see the sites there. I enjoyed the couple of days I spent there. The castle is interesting as is the Cathedral. I enjoyed the lunch I had at the castle very much in their little cafeteria. Excellent hearty food and a good value. You can also take the ferry from Turku to Stockholm instead of going back through Helsinki unless you have to return the rental car to Helsinki.

On another matter I just returned from Toronto and the lines at the airport yesterday were quite long. Air Canada only had 2 agents working their checkin desk at the transborder terminal which made for long backups. Then the immigration lines were just as long on the other side of the wall since all of the foreign nationals had to do that silly fingerprint thing. It was only after I reached the immigration agent that I was told there is a separate line for US citizens. So, if you going through YYZ make sure you ask which line is for US citizens to save yourself some time...especially if you're flying in to National which gets lots of extra special security attention and a gate that's about a mile from everything that you have to walk to.

Gary Lee: Thanks

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For the Phoenix traveler: I agree with Arlington; Taliesin West is a must see. There are various tours you can reserve in advance at the Frank Lloyd Wright Foundation website:

http://www.franklloydwright.org/index.cfm?section=tour&action=taliesinwest

I recommend the "Insights Tour," which will allow you to visit the Living Room with its expansive windows. There's also a Desert Walking tour that is informative if you want to learn about desert vegetation and plant life. Taliesin West is in east-central Scottsdale, probably about 30-45 minutes from central Phoenix.

John Deiner: Good stuff! Thanks for your help. Now we ALL want to go.

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belize bound!;: Hi Crew -
My fiance and I want to go to Belize for our honeymoon next October. We're hoping to use frequent flier miles on Continental to get there, as we are tight on funds. Do you know how difficult it will be for us to cash in on our miles, and how soon we should do that?
Thanks!;

Cindy Loose: If you are flexible about when you go, you should have a good shot at a frequent flyer award. If you must be on the plane the day after the wedding, it could be tough. Since it's less than a year away I'm pretty sure you can inquire now, so check it out. More tickets could open later if things aren't selling well, but if you can grab a freebie now, go for it. If the day after the wedding isn't available, take my advise: the honeymoon trip doesn't have to be right after the wedding. I took my honeymoon a month later, and so what?

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Non-chain hotels: A questioner asked for "websites that would be good for booking hotels that do not belong to any chains." The thing about cheap hotels is that they usually have to cut costs - like paying to booking websites. Why not expand your horizons to other sources of hotel listings? Try non-booking sites like tripadvisor.com, look at online yellow pages, or perhaps even look at a guidebook!; Many guidebooks are now online, like Fodors and Frommers.

Gary Lee: These are all excellent ideas.

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Columbia, Md.: I am looking for a good fortune teller.
I'm planning to travel to Ireland around Easter. I
found airfare for $430 round trip. Is this likely to go
down in the coming months, or should I book now?

Carol Sottili: $430 sounds good.

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washingtonpost.com: Travel Agents, With Reservations, (Sept. 26, 2004) Cindy Loose: For the person thinking about using a travel agent....

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For Phoenix Traveler: May I make a suggestion? Sedona is wonderful, but don't just hop off of I 17 to see it. Go up Interstate 17 to Grand Canyon, but come down through the Oak Creek Canyon. It's a lovely drive. Before you start descending, there's a look-off point. Take advantage of it. I think that there is some agreement with different Native American groups, and a different group is up there regularly selling their jewelry, etc. There are two museums on Native Americans that I visisted. One was in Pheonix/Scottsdale, the other was in Flagstaff. Both were nice, but I preferred the one in Phoenix. Enjoy your trip!;

John Deiner: Great idea, and you know, new to us. Well, new to me. It's on my list...thanks for chiming in.

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For the Paris traveler: I have three favorite sites in Paris that are often overlooked by tourists:

1. The Rodin Museum, near Invalides. It's in a beautiful old house, and the gardens are gorgeous.

2. Musee Cluny, in the Latin Quarter. It's a very old monastery with some great tapestries (including the famous unicorn series) and primitive christian artwork.

3. The catacombs at Notre Dame. Most people go in to see the cathedral, but they ignore the entrance to the catacombs outside. It's a great educational exhibit, and really reminds you of how ancient Paris is.

Gary Lee: Good tips. I especially agree with No. 1. In the same category, I would also put the Musee Picasso.

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Alexandria, Va.: Responses for 2 chatters...
1: for the folks looking for a short trip out of Helsinki, you should also consider Tallinn, Estonia. It's really cute and cheap and a short boat trip away (they have high-speed catamarans in the summer months). Worth a day or two of your trip.

2: for the ever-expanding group of travellers to Australia. I'd bet anything that half of your "friends" who claim to want to go will ultimately bail out of the trip, though not soon enough to avoid a logistical headache. Frankly, it's difficult enough travelling with one person; it would be a nightmare to go with that many people. You will be a tour group, for all practical purposes. I also find it harder to meet locals and other travellers alike when I travel with others. I say ditch 'em all.

Gary Lee: Thanks.

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Monterey, Calif.: Please recommend a few good healh spa/resorts in North America where I could spend a week beginning an exercise program, taking classes, getting bodywork etc.

Thank you.

KC Summers: Awfully broad question, Mont -- it's a big continent. But a couple of spas in general that emphasize exercise regimens and health include Red Mountain Spa in St. George, Utah; Canyon Ranch in Lenox, Mass and Tucson; Hilton Head Health Institute in South Carolina; and the venerable Greenbrier resort in White Sulphur Springs, W.Va. You can't go wrong at any of these.

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Visas for Americans living overseas: My wife and I are moving to Hong Kong in March. We have are planning to go to a friend's wedding in India in July. I know that Americans need a visa to visit India. Is it better to apply for the India visa while we are still here in the States, or do you think that we should be able to get a visa processed at the US Embassy in Hong Kong?

Cindy Loose: ou'd get the visa not from the U.S., but from the government of India. You'd have to do a bit of research to find out what India has in the way of a visa office in Hong Kong. If it were me, I'd get it out of the way before leaving.

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Roanoke, Va.: Greetings, Flight Crew. Hope you can
answer an airline-related question for
me. I was involuntarily bumped from an
overbooked flight this weekend, and
while the gate agent was as helpful as he
could be, his explanation for airlines'
overbooking policies just didn't make
sense: that if airlines didn't overbook,
they'd lose money because some
passengers don't show up for their
flights. Now, I don't know about you, but I
don't know anyone who's ever missed a
flight and not still had to pay for their ticket
-- meaning the airline didn't lose any
money, and probably made more money
through levying change fees. Maybe I'm
an idiot, but it makes me wonder how
airlines can keep using this as their
justification for overbooking.

Carol Sottili: On traditional airlines, when you decide to change your flights and you've already paid, you can usually pay a fee of $50 to $150 per ticket to make the switch. You don't lose the entire value of the ticket unless you simply don't show up. Discounters charge even lower change fees.

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Washington, DC : What time of year is the cheapest to fly into Paris? to London? And what is a reasonable $ amount for a ticket there (roundtrip)? I have only flown a few times domestically, not internationally, so I could use a few pointers.

Andrea Sachs: Wintertime, after the holidays is usually the lowest (when the weather is the bleakest); summer is the highest. You can find flights in the $300-$400 range, or even less sometimes. Icelandair, British Airways and Virgin Atlantic often have sales. You can also get an off-season package, with air and hotel, for about that same amount. Virgin Vacations, for example, has three nights and air fron Newark or New York for $369 for London and $399 for Paris. Also, if you check the major airlines' Web sites often, you can find good off-season Europe deals (sign up for e-savers too).

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Person going to Barbados: To the person going to Barbados. You are going to have a blast. I was there last march and had a great time. I would also suggest that you snorkel and we went for a 1/2 day and it was great. Also the beach near Bottoms Bay and Crain Beach are beautiful and not crowded. There is also this great pottery shop we went to on way to Bathseba. Have a great time.

KC Summers: Yes, that pottery shop is neat -- only downside is how much more your luggage weighs on the way home! I don't think the snorkeling in Barbados is that awesome, but it's certainly okay.

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Manassas, Va.: Should you tip your travel agent?

Cindy Loose: No, although I guess if they save you money and give you a fab trip, you could bring them back a trinket, esp. if you plan to use them again. This shows my manipulative side I suppose, but I can't help noticing that small favors and thoughtful gestures sometimes yield major returns.

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Washington, DC: For the traveler going to Ethiopia, I've booked flights for people on Ethiopian Air, and I've heard that it's actually a really nice airline. They're generally the cheapest route to Ethiopia.

Cindy Loose: Thanks.

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Deep Valley, USA: Thanksgiving travel:

Most years we fly on Thanksgiving Day. Best advice: don't count on a place to park at the airport.

Also, if you want a T-day dinner at your destination and haven't made reservations, you can always count on an Asian place to be open and have space. Few locals want, say, bulgoki on Thanksgiving.

Cindy Loose: Thanks.

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London-bound, Va.: What's the best (i.e., cheapest and easiest) way to travel from London's Gatwick airport into the city? Do I need to purchase rail/bus tickets in advance or can I buy them at the airport the morning of my arrival? Do you or any of the clicksters have additional Tube tips for someone trying to see as much of London as affordably as possible?

Anne McDonough: You can take care of getting into London after you've arrived at Gatwick. For the train: Gatwick Express (www.gatwickexpress.com) starts at £12.00 one way to London Victoria, and they're currently offering a 4 adults for the price of 2 so I'd grab some folks on line and buy my ticket with theirs if you don't have traveling companions. Minor rant: I wish there was a standard phrasing for ticket classes--they have to put "Express = Standard Class" on their Web site to explain the difference between express and first class. It leaves every 15 minutes and takes 30 minutes (35 minutes on Sundays) to reach Victoria. On Christmas and Boxing Day, they're not running the train but a coach instead, so it'll be more like an hour.
National Express (www.nationalexpress.com) is the main coach service; it leaves from both north and south terminals and takes anywhere from an hour to 4 and a half (which of course you wouldn't want to do, so make sure you skip the ones that have a coach change in Brighton!!). Standard single fares start at £6 to Vicoria Coach station.
Anyone know of a cheaper way in from Gatwick? How about tube on the cheap tips, anyone?

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Going around the world!;: Hi Travel Gurus!;
I have just completed enough round trips on United to qualify for their Around-the-world promotion (12 roundtrips = one free ecomomy class ticket around the world,yay!;). My question is, is there any type of travel insurance I can get to cover me on this trip, given that the ticket(s) are free, and not even Frequent Flyer free? Also, any "do not miss" suggestions of where to go are welcome!; Thank you!;!;

Carol Sottili: I've not heard of any travel insurance that will cover this sort of airline ticket. But you could get travel insurance that would cover the $ part of the trip (hotel, etc.). As for where to go, the more exotic the better when the airfare is free.

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Washington, D.C.: I had no interest in the kind of Hawaian hiking trip you described in Lost in Maui, but the opening had me laughing out loud. By the end of it, I wondered if I WOULD prefer a crater to "drooling into my Grisham" on the beach.

Nahhhh. But thanks for a fun article.

KC Summers: Glad you liked it, Wash. Even those of us who just like to drool enjoy reading about the other options sometimes. Steve's out of town but we'll pass the comps on to him.

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Arlington, Va.: Regarding the Australia trip, my friends and I did something similar all over the West...we had three cars in fact! Basically, we agreed upon the destinations along the way and then it was up to each car on how they would get there. For instance, we were all at the Grand Canyon, enjoyed the sights together, and then planned to meet again for dinner two days later in Palm Springs. Once we'd get back together, it was neat to exchange stories on the journey.

Cindy Loose: Great. Then again, you're probably a little more familiar with the U.S. than with Australia, so for example even though maybe you've never been to Detroit or Chicago, you have some idea that Chicago is the more attractive place. So, I'd say they need to plan more than you did for that reason. Thanks.

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Washington DC to Orlando: Hello wise travel gurus,

I know you covered Orlando last week, but
I'm hoping you're still willing to field
questions about that destination...

My boyfriend and I are heading there for
New Years Eve, to visit with relatives.
We're looking for a reasonably price hotel
room for a few nights (including the 31st),
that won't be too over-run with youngsters.

(Given the close proximately to DW, I'm
not sure that this is even feasible...without
going too far from town.)

Do you have any recommendations? Or
any good websites to tap into?

Also, as far as a one day visit to DW for a
mid-twenties couple, what would you
recommend?

And, any good nightlife spots? Or other
daytime fun?

I haven't been to Florida in a long, long
time and I'm also not the best travel
planner...hoping you can give me some
guidance / suggestions!;

Thank you SO much!;

John Deiner: Oh, Orlando is never overcovered...someone is ALWAYS headed there!

As far as reasonably priced hotel on the 31st not overrun with kids...yikes. That's a super-popular time and kids will be everywhere. Perhaps one of the BnBs listed in our special section a few weeks ago may fit the bill, or a house rental. But I can't imagine anything will be real cheap..or even available. Check at www.orlandoinfo.com. It has a real good deal and bargain section.

As far as a good park for twentysomethings, I'd have to say MGM Studios--it's got some of the best thrill rides (Tower of Terror, the Aerosmith roller coaster) and shows. For nightlife you can go to Downtown Disney, but I'd actually drive a little farther and hit Universal CityWalk, with a better collection of shops, clubs, movie theaters, street performers and restaurants.

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Alexandria, Va.: My funniest thanksgiving story is from last thanksgiving. Every year I travel to Rome to see my relatives, because the airfare is so cheap. But I have started to miss Thansgiving dinner (obviously it's not a holiday they celebrate there).

Last year I got the bright idea to make a traditional Thanksgiving meal for my family. It all started to go horribly wrong when my cranberries were confiscated coming into Rome. They had no idea what they were, and they weren't pleased I had them (I hate the canned kind and my family would have too).

I discovered that buying a whole turkey there was PROHIBITIVELY expensive, so I bought a turkey breast. It's not the same, trust me. And you can't make gravy.

There was a little language issue when it came to the squash. The word for pumpkin and squash is really the same. You just have to know what you're looking for. And there, they look very, very similar. Needless to say roasted, mashed pumpkin doesn't taste very good.

So that was that. After about 4 hours of cooking, I gave up the ghost and we ended up eating polenta, sausages, and salad for dinner. We still have a running joke about the disgusting mashed pumpkin, though, so all's well that ends well. And this year, I think we'll just skip the whole idea!

Cindy Loose: Maybe you could play with the pasta to make it look like a turkey, if you start to feel homesick. I'd trade you a turkey for your trip to Rome any time. Thanks.

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Taleisin West: Not worth the admission. I love Frank Lloyd Wright's architecture, but these folks have a funny idea of what is worthwhile. Hiking in the area is some of the best anywhere in the world.

John Deiner: Uh oh. Them's are fighting words. Thumbs down on Taliesin West. How come it's not worth the admission?

And anyone else out there want a say?

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Frequent Flier miles: First US Air, now I hear Delta may considering declaring bankruptcy. What are the odds of Delta going insolvent? I need to know before I invest a substantial amount of effort racking up Delta miles which will get me nowhere.... Thanks.

Carol Sottili: I don't think Delta is in any real danger in the near future. AmEx just extended the airline a $600 million loan and the pilots agreed to $1 billion in pay concessions.

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Dupont Circle, Washington, D.C.: Hi, Flight Crew. I love this chat, and your section most of the time, but while I usually just sit on the sidelines, I'm moved to say that I thought your Hawaii story this morning was really weak. My partner and I are dying to go to Hawaii, and while Steve Hendrix is lucky enough to have to be forced to visit his family there, most people consider traveling to Hawaii beyond their means. Why whine about how mundane the islands are and how everything is so similar? While I'm sure your crater adventure was wonderful to you (and the story was nicely written), the whole story read very elistist to me and maybe lots of other would-be travelers who dream about being able to go there--and can't. No matter how similar one beach is from another.

KC Summers: See above!! Hmm, I thought it was pretty obvious from reading the story that Steve adores the place. It is true that there is a certain sameness to the beaches, but no one is saying that's a bad thing. It's just that sometimes you want to do more. Something for everyone in Hawaii, there is.

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New York on the cheap: To the questioner who was hesitating over the $150 train fare to NYC, consider the many bus companies that offer $35 round trip. You give up a little leg room and take the risk of losing some time in traffic, but for many of us, that's well worth the $230 per couple savings!; There are plenty of choices. This site: http://www.staticleap.com/chinatownbus/ links to seven of them, many but not all of which go from Chinatown to Chinatown. I had a good experience with Vamoose, which has the advantage of going from downtown DC to downtown NYC, as does Washington Deluxe.

John Deiner: Excellent point, as long as they're bus people. And you can't shake off the savings, that's for certain. Thanks for the update.

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washingtonpost.com: Orlando House Rentals, B&#amp;Bs, (Nov. 7, 2004) John Deiner: thanks, .com!

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Capitol Heights, Md.: How do I go about finding trips that are geared towards someone in a wheelchair?

Cindy Loose: Great question---can we get some help out there?
One thing I can tell you is that there's a group that is specific to spinal cord injuries that publishes a free brochure about air travel with disabilities, and I'm thinking maybe they could send you to other resources. You could start with them at www.unitedspinal.org, 800 444 0120. I know there is alot of info out there, and apologize that I don't know where.

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Scranton PA: Eating Along I-81: Hi, many folks pass around Scranton heading north on 81. If you need a bit of a break, you could think about stopping in a little town of Old Forge with several great family-run pizza/Italian restaurants (Revello's, Bruticos, Fortunato's, etc). The town is about 5 miles from the highway, so it's a bit of a detour but worth it. Get off at the Davis Street exit and follow Davis Street into the borough of Taylor; head left for 2 1/2 miles back to Old Forge. Or, check Map Quest for the other directions. I know the back ways and won't try to descibe them. Many people write off Scranton but there are little gems there (it's not Breezewood!;). Thanks.

Cindy Loose: Thanks.

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Barbados-Snorkeling: Hi, remember the name of the boat we went on to snorkel. El Tigre and captain Jimmy and his crew were great. Wonderful way to spend an afternoon that included lunch and quite a bit of rum punch.....

KC Summers: Hear that, Barbados bound?

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Kansas City, Mo.: Hi I'm heading to Dallas for Thanksgiving. Generally speaking, do big city hotels discount on the Wednesday eve before the holiday (most folks heading out of town like in DC)? Any suggestions on a hotel to check right in Dallas if I could get a good deal? Thanks.

Gary Lee: Lots of hotels discount for the day before Thanksgiving. As for properties worth checking out, I like the Hotel Melrose there. I would also check out hotels.com

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Taliesin West: I would encourage a visit there--it's fascinating to see Frank Lloyd Wright's vision incorporated into the middle of the desert. It's not a huge place, so it won't take too much time if you're on a tight schedule.

John Deiner: Okay, so some of you guys like it, you really really like it.

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Bethesda Waif, again: Thanks very much for answering my spring break question. Alas, we went through Liberty Travel, and unfortunately had a very incompetent agent who clearly knew nothing about any of the destinations we were asking about. She suggested the Beaches all-inclusives in Turks and Caicos and Jamaica, even though we told her $7,000 for a week wasn't exactly in our budget. She then said she couldn't find anything in our budget on the islands we were interested in, but she didn't offer us any alternatives. We had to keep paging through their brochures and throwing suggestions at her. Sigh. Just had to vent there. We

Carol Sottili: I would ask around to find a competent agent. There are plenty of good ones and bad ones out there (the same can be said for plumbers, painters, contractors, doctors, journalists, etc.)

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Arlington, Va.: Maybe it's my "planner" nature, but the idea of going all the way to Australia with a group of people, renting a car or two and just going wherever, sounds like a recipe for disaster. You're likely to spend all of your time driving around or trying to decide where to drive to. I'd say pick a couple of cities as bases and spend most of your time seeing the sites there or taking day trips out of the city. Depending on how much time you plan on spending down there, I'd say do Sydney and Melbourne, or if you prefer beaches Sydney and Brisbane and the gold coast. If you have a base of operations then the folks who want to venture out can do so and if a loner or two want to go to some place in the city they can easily do so.

Cindy Loose: Good advise. Thanks. I declare you a winner, so email me if you'd like a big pix book of Calif. or Mediterr.

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For Finland: The person going to Turku should think about stopping in Rauma as well - it's an old wooden city (17th/18th c?), one of the few that have survived in Scandinavia, and a UNESCO world heritage site. It's a short drive away from Turku, a picturesque little place. So is Naantali, which you can take a boat to from Turku, right off the Aurajoki (Aura river), where you'll find a pretty little town and the President's summer home, Kultaranta (you can tell if she's in residence by the raised flag).

I'd pick Tallinn over Stockholm for the more unique experience, but Stokholm's always lovely.

Gary Lee: Thanks for these thoughts. Having been to both Tallinn and Stockholm, I would say that a first time visitor to the region should see the latter first.

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re: City of Lights: The bus tour suggestion in Paris is a very good one (I've done it twice) but DO NOT take it the day you arrive. If you do, you are likely spending your money on a nap aboard a bus since jet lag and a quiet bus ride make for great sleeping conditions. Also, on Thursday night, go to Le Samaritain departemtent store. The rooftop stays open late Thursday evenings and the view is wonderful. And free.

Gary Lee: Good thought. By the way, at least one of the bus tours offers a two day pass. Can're remember which one so you might ask around.

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Silver Spring, Md.: Heading off to Iceland in a few weeks for a quick winter break. Any must sees to recommend in Reykjavik?

Cindy Loose: Yes, you must go to the Blue Lagoon, between the airport and the city. Personally, I preferred the countryside to the city, so you might consider taking a day trip to tour around, dog sled or something like that. Can anyone else chime in?

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Holding drinks for landing?: Things have changed, and each airline may interpret rules differently. Asking that a passenger give up a drink cup, like they'd have to in case of a meal, may strike some as unreasonable, but enought to put up a fight about it? I wonder what the passenger said to make the flight attendant act so "rudely." And why the passenger held onto the anger long enough to post their message today. Life is short-- let it (the "right" to hold onto a drink while landing) go. It's easy to submit a one-sided interpretation of a dispute in such a chat. I bet the flight attendant has another view.

Carol Sottili: Even flight attendants have bad days. I was on an Alitalia flight Saturday where the flight attendant wouldn't take any trash from anyone. He told us to throw it away ourselves. That was a first. We had a good laugh over it.

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Washington, D.C.: Last year, we couldn't fly with wrapped Christmas presents due to security. Do you think it will be the same this year? I hate to spend money to mail the gifts ahead of time, but we're flying on the 24th and won't have time to wrap when we arrive...last year all wrapped packages had to be opened and it was a real bummer.

Carol Sottili: I think the rule is going to be the same this year.

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Annapolis, Md.: My daughter and I are going to New Orleans for Thanksgiving - spur of the moment trip - and want to get a reservation in a nice restaurant for Thanksgiving evening. Can you suggest one- one we really should eat in in this food-wise city. Price not the top but just under that.
Thanks,
Alice

Anne McDonough: I had an absolutely stunning meal at Restaurant August...but they're closed on Thanksgiving. KC says Frankie and Johnnys all the way: even for Turkey Day, she'd go for their fried green pepper rings and peanut butter pie and alligator pie....but they're closed, too. You could try either of them another night, though. Quick, anyone with a Big Easy on Thanksgiving restaurant tip?

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For Orlando travelers: Check out the Hard Rock Hotel at Universal Studios, it's price and theme make it a bit more adult. Also, grownups are a lot more likely to enjoy Islands of Adventure (with more roller coasters and beer/wine for sale) than Walt Disney World. The Orlando night life scene is fairly diverse, the Roxy nightclub is the most upscale. (Or at least it was when I moved up here in June) For a romantic but pricey dinner try Victoria & Albert's in Disney's Grand Floridian, no one under 18 allowed, 6 courses of amazing food.

John Deiner: Excellent advice, and you're absolutely right about Islands. I wouldn't go to any of those places just because I hate crowds and realllll long lines. And I thought they sold beer/wine throughout Disney World these days? Or is that just Epcot?

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Arlington, Va.: Hi guys, I will be travelling to Philadelphia during Thanksgiving. While I have made reservations for dinner, I was wondering what to do for lunch. I know most restaurants are closed that day, but do you think I would have some luck in Chinatown or the Reading Terminal?

Andrea Sachs: The Reading Terminal will be closed as will many of the cheese steak diners and other fave haunts, but Chinatown eateries should likely be open. Another option: Chef's Market, on South Street. You can dine in the cafe or get some gourmet goodies to go.
Check with Philly tourism (www.gophila.com) for more dining info. They have a restaurant guide as well as a dining email newsletter that might be helpful.

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Denver, Colo.: I am going to London this week and am then scheduled to fly for Thanksgiving weekend to Rome on Ryan Air. I have never flown a European low-fare carrier. Is there anything I need to know about Ryan Air to ensure a happy flight? (I am looking for a bit of reassurance - the price seems too good to be true!)

Gary Lee: Beyond the lack of frills (you may have to buy your own coffee or snacks on board) Ryanair often lands at some airport other than the main one. Check out before hand whether that is the case in Rome. If you get stuck in a faroff airport, it would be good to check out beforehand whether there are decent public transportation options into the city.

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Italy hotels: To the person looking to research hotels in "Venice, Florence, Rome, and Naples." "Great Sleeps Italy" will cover the first three in great depth - more than 250 listings total. Unfortunately, the most recent edition is from 2002, so it might be a good idea to double-check your choices before making a reservation. (On the other hand, you can get a used copy very cheap - under $4 + shipping on Amazon, for example.)

Gary Lee: I like that book but had forgotten about it. I am glad you didn't.

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Grosse Pointe Farms, Mich.: Not a question, but a response to two issues raised earlier:

1. Taliesin West is worthwhile. Certainly not the beauty of Fallingwater, but gives you a good understanding of Wright. Frankly, I think it's the best thing in Phoenix which I have never cared for. As a general rule I stay away from cities which think that fading a five iron is Western Man's highest calling.

2. Pick up of drinks on flights - do not know of any FAArule, but it's always part of the standard landing instruction; "Our flight attendants will be picking up all remaining food, and drinks."

John Deiner: Thanks, Michigan. Another thumbs up for Taliesin, it appears.

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For London: When you get into London, get a tube ticket that if good for a few days, but only for Zone 1. There are few things that you'll want to see outside of that zone. I started using the buses, which you can use with the pass, the last time I went. Since I was traveling with a person who didn't do steps very easily, tube stations were difficult. I have to say that I'll use the buses more often in the future. They seemed to go just as quickly as the underground, and I got to see more of London!;

Anne McDonough: Good tips, thanks. And definitely ride the doubledeckers before they're retired. Sniff, sniff.

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Washington, DC: A friend and I, both dissatisfied about the results of the election, would like to spend a long weekend including Inauguration Day in the Caribbean or Mexico. Neither of us has ever been to either place and we are on small young professional budgets. While the idea of beaches, margaritas and all-inclusive resorts is appealing, we would prefer to not be surrounded by rowdy hordes (ie, Cancun doesn't seem like the right destination). Puerto Vallarta seems like it might be nice; are there any Caribbean islands that you or other chatters might recommend?

Cindy Loose: The least expensive airfares are to the trodden paths, i.e. Cancun is cheaper than say Hualtulco, which is more off the beaten track. What you need to do is get online and see what packages are out there that you can afford, and that's going to narrow down the choices quite a bit. Generally, Cancun, Dominican Republic all inclusives and maybe Jamacia have the cheapest packages. Of the three, I prefer Cancun, least the all inclusives of the D.R. Alternately, instead of looking for packages, check airfares--sometimes you can get to P.R. fairly reasonably, then you can separately shop for inexpensive lodgings. Let me say this tho--if you're on a budget and will be happy with margaritas and a great beach, you can do alot worse than Cancun, even though I wish it werent so developed.

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Copenhagen, Denmark: Western Ukraine: I was there twice last month. Since Ukraine International to my best knowledge don't have destinations outside of Europe, it may not be practical to go through Kiev. It is probably better to fly to Warsaw and take a LOT flight to Lviv/Lvov/Lwow (depending on language preferences), then continue from there with local transportation. Lviv is an undiscovered beauty, by the way!;
It is a lot cheaper to take the train (6 hours, 90 dollars one way on first class) to Przemysl in southeastern Poland and then continue on local bus, but it will take you ages to get through the border formalities, especially on your way out of Ukraine, since the Polish-Ukranian border is now the new EU border, and authorities try to crack down on smuggling.

Gary Lee: Thanks much for that very detailed response. Your experience is far more rent than mine.

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Bethesda, Md.: Hi there Crew,
Re the clickster going to Australia with too many people:

My husband and I met up in London for a week a few years ago with 7 far-flung family members (only one was a child). The first evening we got together to plan out a schedule. A grid showing 7 days-broken into morning, afternoon and evening--was drawn. We filled in the given--3 plays we had tickets for. Then each of us suggested 2 things he/she was most interested in and a consensus was made about where to go when. A couple of "free" afternoons were thrown in so we could escape each other and do our own thing. It took maybe an hour and we had the week planned with no arguing or wasting time each morning with "what are we going to do today?" Anal? You betcha. But it worked out great.

Of course we all knew each other, and we were in just one city, but I don't see why the same concept couldn't be applied to a group roving from town to town.

Cindy Loose: Thanks

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for phoenix and australia: phoenix:

in phoenix the heard museum is the native american museum which is definitely worth taking a look. Also, there's a great weekend flea market where you can get bargains on native american, mexican and general southwestern artifacts and crafts. i just don't rememeber the name!; check out Tucson too, it's only an hour away through the Sonoran desert and the Saguaro national park is stunning, so is the San Xavier church.

if you head out to the grand canyon and need a place to stay, a good night layover spot is Williams (right along route 66) we stayed at this wonderful, character filled, reasonably priced place called the Red Garter Bed n Bakery. It used to be a brothel in the days of the old west. the owner is a hoot.

For australia - my favorite travel trips are with a group of six friends. We've gone to South Africa, Brazil, and Italy and while it was a lot of work to plan, it was worth it!; Many places will give you a discount if you bring a large group. YOu can divide who handles what(ie car rentals, hotel, bnb reservations, flight reservations, activity reservations, etc) and if you're in charge of the overall trip and delegate, you can probably make the decision where everyone goes. Make sure you have more than just a verbal agreement before the majority of planning though. Make sure flight to n fro are the first things paid for, then there's no turning back!;

Cindy Loose: Thanks

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London on 80 pound a day - after hotel costs: Hi,

is it now possible to visit London on under 100 pounds a day - after the hotel costs and airfare are paid for?

this would only be food and entertainment expenses - for one person (going with a friend).

what would you recommend for a first timer who wanted to keep it around 75 pounds/pp a day. we'd like to see at least one really good West End show, too.

thanks!;

KC Summers: One word: Wagamama's. That's a cut-rate (and delicious) noodle chain where you can easily get dinner for less than $10. (That's without drinks, alas.) There are actually quite a few cheap resto options in London, despite the lousy exchange rate, including of course all the ubiquitous Indian places. Anne also likes a similarly cheap beer-and-mussels chain called Belgo.

All of which is to say that your budget of 75-100 pounds a day is eminently doable. Buy a London tube pass in the U.S. before you go for a real bargain. Think free museums, half-price theater tickets (they have an official version of the TKTS booth), strolling Hyde Park, hopping a city bus for a cheap tour... Plenty of ways to economize.

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Boston, Mass.: This is for last week's chatter who was looking for information on things to do in Sarajevo. I visited Sarajevo last spring. It was a wonderful city to just wander around in. The Turkish Quarter in particular is very interesting, and there are all kinds of handicrafts on sale. Do bargain - prices are almost never marked and you shouldn't just accept the first price they offer. Many cafes serve turkish coffee and local foods for very cheap prices. I found that many tourist attractions are only open for a few hours each day, and a few days each week. I wanted to visit Svrzo's house but it was not open when I was able to visit it. If you do make it there - look carefully at the signs on the buildings to find it. I passed it about three times before I noticed the tiny sign on the wall identifying it. There is an old and historic mosque in the Turkish Quarter that a lot of people in my group went to and enjoyed. However it is only open in the morning, and not every day of the week. The World War II memorial and eternal flame, the mosques and cathedrals in the city center, and the bridge where WWI was sparked are all things worth seeing.

For eating - the restaurant that locals recommend to all of the tourists is "Inat Kuèa"("House of Spite" - it was moved across the river when the National Library was built). It has really inexpensive but delicious traditional food, and occupies three stories of an old Turkish house.

Watch for the "Sarajevo roses" on the pavement - they are pinkish blobs that look like spatters on the ground. They are small craters filled with pink cement; they were caused by explosions during the war, and the pink ones mark where people died. Some people also like seeing the war-torn ruins of the olympic stadium, just outside town.

Anne McDonough: Thanks, Beantown! House of Spite, huh? Sounds lovely.

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Washington, D.C.: What kind of fare can I expect to pay for a round trip flight from DC to Bangkok in February? I'm seeing anywhere from $800-3000+. Any chance of getting something for around $700? Thanks.

Carol Sottili: $700 is pretty cheap for Bangkok, especially if you're looking for something that includes taxes. Have you tried consolidators? I am not personally familiar with any that specialize in Bangkok - look at those small ads that run in our section each Sunday. Cathay Pacific (www.cathaypacific.com) has a deal of the month that sometimes is to Bangkok. Look for fares out of New York - they're often cheaper.

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Falls Church, Va.: What can you tell me about traveling to the
Palestinian territories? I'm planning a trip to Israel
in late February and would like to at least go to
Ramallah, where Arafat's grave is located. Is there
somewhere I can go to hire a reputable guide? I'm
a woman and will be traveling alone.

Cindy Loose: Woman traveling alone to Ramallah. Hmmm. Can anyone out there help with insights? I would say it might help if you are of Arabic extraction, or look like you might be. Otherwise, that's something I'd want to research carefully before plowing ahead. Not that I know anything bad about it---I'm just saying it makes me wonder. The U.S. isn't real popular in that area of the world just now. Anyone else with experience in that area?

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Washington, D.C.: I'm going to be in Portland, Oregon for the first time later this week on business, but will have one free day and a rental car to do some sightseeing - any recommendations?

Cindy Loose: Help in Portland????

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Traveling in a wheelchair: Check out the the Lonely Planet's discussion page for travelers with dissabilities. I'm sure they'll have all sorts of great advice for you:

http://thorntree.lonelyplanet.com/categories.cfm?catid=38

Cindy Loose: Thanks.

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Washington, D.C.: I am considering taking advantage of the cheap airfares that USAir is offering to the Caribbean. I don't need to swim in the ocean but I am seeking sunlight-- I fear the onset of seasonal affective disorder. How cold will it be in the Bahamas in early December? Any recommendations on which island or where to stay. Just looking for a few days in the sun to relax.

Andrea Sachs: It's more like how warm is it in the Bahamas. Expect lots of sun and temps in the 80s, if not warmer. It is year-round pleasant, for the most part. It's hard to pick an island for someone, unless you know their taste and budget. From D.C., you can get cheap packages and air to the Bahamas, Dominican Republic and Jamaica. The other islands, like the Caymans, Barbados, U.S. Virgin Islands, etc., are more expensive. See www.doitcaribbean.com for a rundown of the islands. Then check with such packagers as Apple Vacations and Fare Deals for specials. For air (but also packages), check with Air Jamaica and BWIA.

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parking at dulles: Hello Flight Crew. Do any of you (or the chatters) know about the parking situation at Dulles? Specifically, I will be flying out on Thanksgiving morning and I fear arriving at the airport at 7AM and finding all the parking spots taken, with nowhere to go!; Do ALL the lots at Dulles fill up during the busy Thanksgiving travel season? Any advice for parking now that the airport has seen an increase in traffic?

John Deiner: That's a good question, and I don't have a good answer. I flew out in early October from Dulles and had to circle longterm parking for 10 minutes until one popped up. And that wasn't a holiday weekend! You could call ahead the night before, I suppose, and check to see what the parking situation is, or go to www.parksleepfly.com and see if there's anyplace you can book a room the night before that includes parking. That's a mighty early flight you got there.

Anyone else out there with an idea? And hurry!

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To Phoenix-bound: If you want to stretch your legs a bit on the way up to GC, stop at Montezuma Well, which is right off the interstate, maybe an hour out of Phoenix (don't remember exactly). You'll see the signs. It's a remarkably well-preserved Indian ruin site that's run by the National Park Service. Toozigoot National Monument is nearby as well. The rangers can direct you. Depending on which route you take past Flagstaff, you may want to stop at either Cameron Trading Post or the Arizona Snowbowl, as well. Northern Arizona is one of my favorite places in the country (and maybe the world). Enjoy!;

John Deiner: Many thanks for the topnotch suggestions.

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Washington, DC: Hi Gang!; Is anyone familiar with USAir charter service? I received info on a trip for next year to the Dominican Republic (Puna Cana) and was told that my airfare would be cheaper if agreed to Charter service. What exactly is this? Thanks!;

Cindy Loose: We've not heard of USAir charter service. Sure they didn't just say charter service, meaning it's not a reguarly scheduled airline, but a plane that flys to a certain place at certain times. I was unaware USAir was connected with a charter service. Generally, though, charter service is a common part of packages to the Caribbean.

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Wrapping presents: We took some early xmas presents (wrapped) down to relatives in Florida this past weekend. We had no problems and they weren't unwrapped by security but in the event they would have been, I'd wrapped them and left one end of each package open so that the boxes would slip in and out of the paper easily without ruining the paper. You can always retape them when you arrive.

Carol Sottili: Although TSA rules are standardized, security procedures do vary from airport to airport. Here's the official word from TSA:
Wait to wrap your gifts. Be aware that wrapped gifts may need to be opened for inspection. This applies to both carry-on and checked baggage.

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Princeton, NJ: For the Arizona traveller:

ditto on the the drive from Sedona to Flagstaff it is spectacular...also we stayed on the south rim of Grand Canyon at the El Tovar ...worth every dime for the "canyon view" rooms. We had sunset and sunrise from a second floor balcony forty feet from the rim (with room service)...

John Deiner: Sounds terrific, Princeton. Really, it's just about impossible to top the Grand Canyon, isn't it?

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Alexandria, Va.: Good places to eat:

Not quite a major thoroughfare, but if you take I68 west, there's a great place near Cumberland. It's on the US40 exit just after Cumberland, turn right. D'Atri Restaurant. Great Italian and subs. I was driving that way to avoid the Turnpike on my way to Ohio (68W to 79N to non-toll 70W), only tacked on 30 minutes to my ride, and I got a great meal with it.

Cindy Loose: 30 minutes is alot to tack, but for those who care enough about food to spare 30 min---here's a tip.

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Deep Valley, USA: Portland - the best.

Go out along the Columbia river, which is gorgeous. If you have time, go all the way to the wineries, otherwise just stop and hike at the various waterfalls. Spectacular and nearby. The coast is lovely too.

Or just go to the Rose Garden and the Japanese Garden above the downtown.

If you loved Beverly Cleary books as a child, don't miss the statues of Henry, Ramona, and Ribsy at a local playground in the neighborhood where those books were set.

Cindy Loose: Thanks.

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Alexandria, Va.: Going to hong kong for work in early December. while i'd love to stay at the Peninsular, i can't afford it! i hear that hong kong hotels have great service. where can i stay for $250-300 that i can get my money's worth?

thanks for all the advice destination weddings, due to your articles, i think i've decided on Barbados!

Anne McDonough: Right next door to the Peninsula is...don't laugh...the YMCA. I stayed there a few years ago and loved it, and according to their Web site (www.ymcahk.org.hk) there's a December deal for harbor view rooms: $123. It's a great location, you're right by the swankiness but don't have to shell out for it, and you're also down the road from one of the best views of the harbor: Have drinks at the Intercontinental, just minutes from the Star Ferry. How about some other hotel suggestions, oh wise clickers?

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New Orleans on Thanksgiving: Muriel's Jackson Square has everything you're looking for!; I went last year in October and the food is excellent. It looks like they have a special Thanksgiving menu that is reasonably priced for the holiday: http://www.muriels.com/html/tour.jsp

The chef at Muriel's was voted Chef of the Year in 2003 by New Orleans magazine, and the restaurant also has a unique history complete with a ghost story. How more New Orleans can you get?!;

Anne McDonough: Sounds good to me!

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Help!; Need quick answer today.: Hotel rooms in Washington DC proper for Inauguration week are either filled up or expensive, so I'm looking for some nice spots to stay ON METRO LINES maybe one or two stops out from the city. Would you please just give me a few close by "suburban" Metro stops to check out where there are some good hotels -- preferably in a neighborhood with something to offer as well.

Thank you.

Cindy Loose: My top choice would be Betheda--a very nice downtown, and hotels of various price categories except dirt cheap. Then you could try Arlington stops. Crystal City is neither crystal or city, but it is very close to the city.

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RE: New Orleans On Thanksgiving: Arnaud's is open. It's in the French Quarter and you'll listen to a lovely jazz band as you have dinner. They even stop at your table to do requests!;

Anne McDonough: And more!

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Charter: They're probably talking about USA3000 Punta Cana charters from BWI.

Carol Sottili: That sounds right.

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Fairfax, Va.: For Christmas Wrapping Blues...

Gift bags are your salvation! Easy to pack, and easy to assemble after the kiddies (or your uncle) have gone to bed.

Carol Sottili: Clever idea.

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Not Cancun: To the person thinking of a Caribean vacation, but wanting to avoid Cancun -- consider travelling a little further south down the Maya Riviera -- perhaps Playa del Carmen -- still a great beach without the high rises -- lots of restaurants, etc. (I recommend a small beachfront hotel, the Playa Maya)....

Cindy Loose: I was thinking that too--but can they get down there without a car or over the top cab ride? If you can tell them how to do the transfers cheaply, I'd say right on, definately.

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Alexandria, Va.: for the person visiting Portland, OR:
Go to the rose gardens and the Japanese garden. They're right next to each other on a lovely hillside. They have tea demonstrations sometimes in the japanese gardens. If the weather is nice I can't think of a better way to spend a day in Portland... and if you're there on a Saturday, start the day at the Saturday Market (think Eastern Market in DC - crafts and food).

Cindy Loose: Thanks.

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Deep Valley, USA: You can get those several day Tube tickets for any combinaton of zones, not just Zone 1.

Most of them include busses as well.

Anne McDonough: You certainly can, but so many sights are in Zone 1 so a pass may not be neccessary for a first-time London visitor.

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Pumpkin vs. Squash: This reminds me of conversations I've had with my Australian mother-in-law. Down under, "pumpkin" generally means all winter squash, and sometimes it's a greenish US-pumpkin shaped squash. We just get so confused when we're discussing a recipe, and last year, when I went to the shops in vain to look for fresh or canned US pumpkin, I confused the heck out of the clerks. I had hoped to make a pumpkin cheesecake, and butternut squash was not going to cut it.

As for the growing group of friends going to Australia, they need to plan. It's a long way to go, and it's way more efficient to fly between some places than drive. And hope like heck some of the hangers-on see the airfares and drop away...

Cindy Loose: Thanks.

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Drinking in Disney World: EPCOT sells beer and wine in the World Showcase, while MGM & Animal Kingdom sell beer in some restaurants, but not on the side walks.

BTW, People staying at a park hotel in Universal Studios (Hard Rock, Portofino Bay, and ???) get a pass to jump to the head of any line in the park. All of the major parks now offer a 'Fast Pass' to skip the line at a certain time of day, but the hotel guest pass is good all the time.

John Deiner: GET OUT! Man, that's a great deal. Pricey hotels, for sure, but that's a terrific perk. And Moms and Dads (and Grandmas and Grandpas, and Aunts and Uncles . . .) thank you everywhere for the news on where you can buy alcohol in the World.

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re: travel in wheelchair: http://www.disabilitytravel.com

http://www.wheelsup.com - "wheelchair travel specialists"

http://emerginghorizons.com - publications about wheelchair travel

http://www.access-able.com - resources and info

Cindy Loose: You guys are all great---thanks for the help.

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Springfield, Va.: I don't know how you choose questions, but I've posted early the last three weeks hoping you and your audience could help me with my trip to Florence, Italy, next week. I'd just love some feedback from people who have been there, beyond the travel guide stuff. I feel like the kid waiting to get picked (always last) for the team in p.e. at school. Is there some trick to getting a question answered? I would really appreciate some tips, and any information about good day tours from Florence. Thank you.

KC Summers: Okay Springfield. Your moment has arrived!! (Just a little tip, this is a pretty broad question and one that's relatively easy to research either online or in guidebooks -- we generally try to pick questions about places that we've either been to lately, or that it might be hard for folks to get info on. That, plus we're a sucker for a compliment or a kind word...

But you asked about day trips. Tuscany is full of wonderful hill towns and villages. Siena and Fiesole are two can't-misses. People always rave about San Gimignano, a medieval city of more than 70 towers. For more ideas, try about.com or any one of the online guides (frommers, lonely planet, rough guide). Also, http://www.world66.com/world/europe/ italy/tuscany/florence/toursdaytrips has some good suggestions.

Anyone out there got more Florence tips for Springfield? Quick, quick!

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washingtonpost.com: Beyond Cancun, (Feb. 9, 2003) Cindy Loose: Here's some fun placesto stay south of Cancun---but the questions of whether you can get from the airport to these places is still up in the air. If the questions isn't answered in two minutes, you;'ll have to check it out yourself, but it's definately a good idea.

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Falls Church, Va.: Good places to eat on the road outside DC: On Rt. 15 north in Thurmont, Maryland (by Mount St. Mary's College), near the Pennsylvania border, stop at Chubby's barbecue. They have excellent pulled pork and beef brisket, plus homemade potato chips and occasional bread pudding as a special. If you are avoiding I-95 to New England by taking Rt. 15 to Harrisburg to I-81 you'll go right by it.

Cindy Loose: Great! I like the sounds of Chubby's barbeque.

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Washington, DC: My sister and I would like to try cross-country skiing the first week of March. Any suggestions on where a good place to go, not too resorty? (Either US or Canada)

Anne McDonough: How 'bout a good ole plug for my favorite New England state: Vermont. Last year we did a piece on inn-to-inn cross country skiing there; it's a bit late to request a link but if you go to the (free) Travel index and search under Vermont, the story should come up. That might give you some good ideas.

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Woodbridge, Va.: My husband and I are going to Vienna and Innsbrook, Austria next week. We will only be in Vienna for one day and the rest of the trip will be in Innsbrook with a possible day trip to Venice. We've never been to Europe so any suggestions on places to go (or not go) would be greatly appreciated!

Cindy Loose: Are you planning to ski in Innsbrook? It's great for that, but otherwise, it's not what I expected in terms of beauty or attractions, and I'd take from it and give an extra day to Vienna. I also happen to like a place a can't spell that's a train ride away--Garnish Partinkierstein, in Germany---very pleasant ski town.

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Deep Valley, USA: London TKTS booth:

DO NOT be fooled by all the storefronts on the passage from the Tube station to Leicester square that have Half Price Tickets in their names.

They are not the official booth, and tend to be very expensive.

There are always biglines for them, sadly.

KC Summers: Yep, there's only one of them there official ones.

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Washington, D.C.: My friend and I (women in our early 30s) are hoping to take a quick vacation together in early February. She's coming from Chicago; I'm coming from D.C. Requirements: warm and cheap!; Also, not too far from our cities since we'll probably just go for a long weekend. So far, we've discussed Phoenix (too boring?), Key West (too far), and San Juan (too much to do in 3 days). Any other ideas? We're flexible on what to do - we could sunbathe, sightsee, shop, etc. We just want a nice warm inexpensive getaway!; Please help...

Cindy Loose: Phoenix sounds okay to me, but have you thought about Florida? There are some dirt cheap fares from here, and probably decent from Chicago too. Fort Lauderdale and town around there are nice.

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City of Fairfax: To the person looking for the least expensive time to fly to Londor or Paris, winter is the least expensive time. I STRONGLY suggest that you purchase an air/hotel package. BA had a sale for $89 a few months ago (an usually has a sale for $99 in Jan. or Feb.) and I scarfed three tickets up thinking I'd be a generous auntie with my niece and nephew. Sticker shock!; It had been 2 years since I'd been to London, and I hadn't realized how poorly the dollar was doing against the pound. I usually like to get a ticket and stay at a hostel, but it's cheaper when I can travel with another person and take advantage of package deals without single supplements.

Cindy Loose: Thanks.

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Winter in Paris tips: Went last year. Paid $232 RT from Dulles (plus taxes). Stayed at an apt in the Latin Quarter (about $99/night for three people). Weather is not too cold, but definitely take an umbrella. The lines at the museums and other sites are nonexistent.

And I'm sure you can find better restaurants than the one in the middle of the Eiffel Tower...

Cindy Loose: Thanks.

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More London travel: Ack!; Do I have to buy that Tube pass here in the States? Or can I pick one up when I arrive (in just a few days' time)?

Anne McDonough: Everything you'll need is on this site: http://tube.tfl.gov.uk/content/faq/tourism/

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NY, NY: What is the deal with Breezewood anyway? Every year my parents would pile us in the car to make th 6.5 hour drive from Fairfax to Canton, OH. And every year we'd stop off at Breezewood. And it was always the same terrible food. If I ever have to make the drive myself, I drive THROUGH Breezewood and stop someplace else.

Cindy Loose: Breezewood is the center of the universe if you are driving west from D.C., and what is with the food there?

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D.C.: Sorry, K.C. I agree with the person who didn't like the Hendrix story. It's right on the mark.

KC Summers: Okay, noted, and of course you're entitled to your opinion. Thanks for the feedback (seriously).

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Glover Park, Washington, D.C.: I am planning on traveling with a friend to Cuba in February. We do not have a visa so we plan to fly through Canada or the Caribbean. Now that the Cuban government will no longer be accepting US dollars, should we exchange our dollars into some other type of currency before we leave? Also, how strict has the US government been recently in cracking down on Americans traveling to Cuba without visas? Thanks!

Cindy Loose: I'd call the Cuban embassy and ask, but far as I know you can spend Canadian dollars or euros, so I'd get some of those. As to the crackdown---Bush has gotten tough. You cannot bring back incriminating evidence, including receipts or rum or so much as the ash of a cigar.

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Response to KC: "Something for everyone in Hawaii, there is." Thank you, Yoda.

KC Summers: You're a savvy poster, you are.

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Herndon, Va.: For a great resource on places to eat along the highways of America, visit www.roadfood.com or buy the book "Roadfood" by Jane and Michael Stern. They rarely recommend fancy places ... just small mom and pop-type restaurants that are a true slice of Americana with quality food and local color for atmosphere.

Roadfood has been around (and updated) since 1977 and I've had a number of great meals by following its recommendations.

Cindy Loose: Great advise!

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re: Y in Hong Kong: if it was just me, i'd definitely do the Y, but there's no way, no matter what the view is, that my boss would stay there. HELP!;

also, Bedford, PA off of Rte 81 place to eat -- The Eagle Inn or something like that. it was one of the best, gourmet meals i've ever had... i think i got the recommendation from a post travel story about Bedford and traveling there to see the covered bridges.

Anne McDonough: Yikes--thanks for the Bedford tip. I wish I had another hotel up my sleeve for you!

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Mt. Arlington, N.J.: I'm a college student looking to take a trip across country in my car. Looking for any information as to what kind of places I could visit, how much money I will need, and any helpful tips that will help me along in voyage.

Cindy Loose: You need to break it down, cause it varies so much depending on how long you're on the road, how you eat, how fancy you need to sleep.

STart with mileage--plot out your trip at www.mapquest.com. Then multiply the miles by about $2.30.

Add some amount for each overnight--I'd check out youth hostels for some nights, then maybe splurge on something better once in awihle.

Food---cheetos and coke used to take me a long way. take a cooler to save money on drinks and sandwiches on the road. Good luck-- hope you have great adventures.

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Cindy Loose: Well folks we did our best. Thanks to those of you with great ideas. We appreciate it, and if you joined us on your lunch hour, sorry, but you're 10 minutes late getting back to work.

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