In another small bowl, combine 2 spatulas of rice (about 1 cup), yogurt and one drop of saffron water. Spread the mixture evenly over the bottom of the pot; this will create a golden crust -- called tah dig.
Spread 2 spatulas of rice in the pot, then one of herbs. Repeat alternating layers of rice and herbs, sprinkling cinnamon between the layers. Cook covered for 10 minutes over medium heat.
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Pour remaining 1/4 cup butter or oil, saffron water and 1/2 cup of hot water over the rice and herbs. Place a clean dish towel or 2 layers of paper towels over the pot; cover firmly with the lid to prevent steam from escaping. Cook 50 minutes over low heat.
Wash and pat dry fish pieces. Dust with seasoned flour. Just before serving, in a large skillet over medium heat, brown fish on both sides in oil. Sprinkle fish with Seville orange or lime juice.
Remove rice from heat and allow to cool for 5 minutes without uncovering. This frees the crust from the bottom.
Place rice and fish on platters. (The crust, which is considered a delicacy, can be broken up and served separately in another bowl.) Serve immediately.
Adapted from "New Food of Life: Ancient Persian and Modern Iranian Cooking and Ceremonies," by Najmieh Batmanglij (Mage Publishers, 1992).
Per serving: 802 calories, 45 gm protein, 79 gm carbohydrates, 35 gm fat, 66 mg cholesterol, 16 gm saturated fat, 853 mg sodium, 5 gm dietary fiber
Don't want to cook? You can find specialty items for Nowruz at these local Persian grocery stores and bakeries.
Iran Sara. 6039 Leesburg Pike, Falls Church. 703-578-3232. This spot offers halal meat (that admissible for eating by Muslims) as well as pastries and specialty products.
Yasaman Bakery. 785-J Rockville Pike, Rockville. 301-762-6000. Offers a tantalizing range of Persian pastries, including wonderful almond macaroons.
Yekta. 1488-A Rockville Pike, Rockville. 301-984-1190. This is one of the area's oldest Persian markets. You can shop for a range of foods, preserves and breads or eat at the kabob house next door.