Everybody loves big, lush California Cabernets until they try to match them with food. Everyone loves the sophistication of Grand Cru Bordeaux until they get the bill. The question is whether there are Cabernet or Merlot wines that marry well with food and don't break the bank.
Yes, there are: the ever-improving wines from the state of Washington. The Cabernet Sauvignons and Merlots from Washington's Columbia Valley do a nifty balancing act. They offer a fair quotient of upfront, New World fruit but maintain the understated claret style of French Bordeaux at an exceptional value. For a top-drawer California Cabernet or Bordeaux, it's difficult to spend less than $35; for a top-rated Washington state wine, it's hard to spend more.
The pioneer of the modern Washington wine industry is Chateau Ste. Michelle, which owns Columbia Crest, one of the state's largest producers on a commercial level. While there are other excellent Washington wineries, these two merit special focus for several reasons. Besides specializing in Bordeaux varietals, they are among the most reliable producers, and their wines are easy to find across the country in all price ranges.
Washington has had a remarkable string of good harvests since 1996. The best vintage of the run is the 2001, which is the focus of this comprehensive tasting of the current releases of Chateau Ste. Michelle and Columbia Crest Cabernet and Merlot. Supplies are excellent, and the prices are quite reasonable. Prices are approximate:
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
Chateau Ste. Michelle Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley Reserve 2001 ($30-$34): This wine manages at once to be refined yet rich, a rare feat nowadays at $60, let alone $30. A fragrant bouquet of new oak, wildflowers, cherries and cassis leads to layered flavors of bright, fresh Cabernet and a resounding finish marked by fruit layered over tender tannins. A balanced, thoroughly successful effort that is quite special for the price. Drink now and over the next five to seven years.
Columbia Crest Walter Clore Private Reserve Columbia Valley 2000/2001 ($35): A bit spicier and softer than the Chateau Ste. Michelle Reserve Cabernet, this energetic and complex Cabernet/Merlot blend is superb in both vintages. An exotic bouquet of ripe red berries is accented by a generous amount of vanilla oak, cassis and hints of saffron that recall Bordeaux second-growth Cos d'Estournel. The 2000 vintage is a perfect choice for drinking now and over the next three years; the 2001 is of equal quality but needs another six months to settle down.
Columbia Crest Merlot Columbia Valley Grand Estates 2001 ($12; best buy): Anyone who doubts that Merlot has found a true home in the state of Washington must taste this knockout value. What other region could produce 175,000 cases of Merlot of this quality for $12? The balance is impeccable, mating the softness of the Merlot grape with an invigorating core of clear, pure red-fruit flavors. Merits a top recommendation for its satisfying flavor and exceptional value, but lacks aging potential.
Columbia Crest Reserve Merlot Columbia Valley 2001 ($30): This harmonious Merlot blend leans decidedly toward the Cabernet side, offering up soft fruit highlighted by complex aromatic notes of cedar and baked chocolate. The seamless integration of the fruit and tannins make it a standout. Ready now.
RECOMMENDED
Northstar (Chateau Ste. Michelle) Merlot Columbia Valley 2000 ($52): This expressive wine brings together enormous fruit and lots of oak in a notably sophisticated style. A bit pricey, a bit oaky. Drink now.
Chateau Ste. Michelle Merlot Columbia Valley "Indian Wells" 2002 ($17; best buy): Bright, focused red-berry fruit nicely seasoned with new oak shows off the 2002 Indian Wells Merlot to great advantage. Similar to a well-done Saint-Emilion cru, and an excellent value.
Columbia Crest Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley Reserve 2001 ($30): This wine is impressively complex. The tannins are slightly less refined than those of the Columbia Crest Reserve Merlot. Needs 12 months of cellaring to smooth out.
Chateau Ste. Michelle Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2001 ($16): This is a textbook example of Chateau Ste. Michelle's Bordeaux-style Cabernet. Because Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is often softer than the Merlot , this 100 percent Cabernet Sauvignon wine is able to serve up complex cedar and cassis Cabernet varietal character in a soft, approachable style. Drink now and over the next three years. Excellent value.
